I turn the timing down. Seems OK. Definitely a little slower. Everything I’ve been reading says the out runner motor likes high timing. First brushless Boat had it for months already had to change the hull 2 EEC’s I’m going to repower it upgrade the cooling for what I spent I could have bought a self righting dominator but I guess the education is priceless
Pro boat recoil 2 3rd esc
Collapse
X
-
-
Yes, FE boats can have a tough learning curve if you aren't careful. Its very easy to pull 200-300 amps with nothing more than a prop change, and you had better have a setup that can handle it or things fail quickly. Even 8G wire will be scorching at sustained current values like that.
So you aren't running a stock setup then. Dasboata's props are typically more for straight line speed with rest in between to cool down, not running wide open non stop. That prop could be why things are cooking.
Thats a 2300KV motor which should be just fine with the stock 3S setup, right under 30,000 RPM unloaded. I would suggest you put the stock prop back on and see if you still have the same shut down issues and overheating of the electronics. Keep the low voltage cutoff values low in case your lipo battery is sagging voltage as well, and see if things are better. If so, then you can start to slowly raise the timing and monitor things as you go.
What "outrunner" are you talking about? Outrunners are air cooled as the outer can spins instead of the stator with vents on top that force air through the motor, and are mostly used for airplanes, cars and helicopters. Is your motor not water cooled? It would be easy to overwhelm its cooling capability if so. I thought all of the Pro Boat RTR models were the typical water cooled inrunner design that is use 99.9% of the time in FE boats, but I dont have any personal experience with your specific boat
Ive seen them used in big slow, low current scale boats before, but I cant imagine how well one in a small, completely watertight sealed boat with zero airflow and recirculated scorching hot air from the electronics inside would be able to work well?Last edited by Xrayted; 08-18-2023, 07:33 PM.Comment
-
I have the recoil v2 it has an out runner that spins like a buzz saw, waiting to put a hole in my battery I don’t like it I bought a leopard x2 3180 kv I’m going to try using the Cupler from the recoil V1 I ordered a motor mount bracket from a MP 31 it looks like I have to cut about a quarter inch off the inside of the motor mount that is glued in the boat I still wanna figure this system out because I’ll use it in another boat.Comment
-
Every time the boat blew up was with a stock prop but I had a 4S battery, which is supposed to be able to handle I would beat the hell out of it and then as soon as I stopped for 20 seconds and went to go again and it would blow the capsLast edited by Slowy joey; 08-18-2023, 08:24 PM.Comment
-
-
Thanks for your help. I think it was just a low-voltage cut. I had it set on six. It’s running great not even getting hot with the dasboata prop i’m not even going to try it on 4s i’m going to pull it out and save everything for another project and now I have to do it all over again with an in runner motor 150 amp esc this set up. I’m going to do on 4s I really thought the boats would be simple never had issues like this with the cars and helicoptersComment
-
Thanks for your help. I think it was just a low-voltage cut. I had it set on six. It’s running great not even getting hot with the dasboata prop i’m not even going to try it on 4s i’m going to pull it out and save everything for another project and now I have to do it all over again with an in runner motor 150 amp esc this set up. I’m going to do on 4s I really thought the boats would be simple never had issues like this with the cars and helicopters
That's the problem with FE boats. They pull huge currents vs any other RC models out there. Most lipos can't handle loads like that for very long, if at all, so the voltage can sag badly, tripping the LVC. Shutting LVC completely off is the first thing I do when using HW ESCs in any of my RC helis, as they are known to randomly shut down, and you had better know how to auto-rotate or else your model will fall like a rock! In the air it makes no sense to use any LVC to save a $50 lipo from damage, and crash a $2,000 heli instead.
Surface models however need some sort of LVC for most just in case you get distracted and lose track of your run time, but you will likely need to use low values to prevent spontaneous shutdowns, even with the proper cell count set
Good luck!Comment
-
Does anyone know how to get a RC boat permit and how much it cost in New Jersey just got busted by the fuzzComment
-
-
Proboat my ass I just blew out my second hull just flipping didn’t even hit anything I was planning on getting some chopped carbon fiber and resin and reinforcing the inside of the new hull Any suggestions?Comment
Comment