Pro boat recoil 2 3rd esc

[Slowy joey]

Hello, I am new to the boat scene. I have a 26 inch shreddy my ESC blew it a week on 4S I installed a dynamite 120 and that one blew up on the second run went on fire singed my hatch now I installed a 90 amp flycolor does anyone know what I should set the timing and the punch at? I took it for a run and was getting power cuts on 3S I?m wondering if something is wrong with the motor at first I thought it was the battery because both ESC?s blew up on the same battery trying to figure it out don?t have much experience any help would be appreciated.

[Slowy joey]

I set my timing at 22.5? turn the punch level to 3 soldered in a cap pack still getting a power cut, but not as bad i’m gonna try turning the timing lower. The motor does sound a little noisy to me.

[Bande1]

too high of timing will destroy and esc fast. I have no idea what its supposed to be though.

[Slowy joey]

Maybe the ESC is getting too hot I read the manual. It says it will cut power if it goes over 100?. I am putting some parts together and I’m going to try a leopard x2 motor with a OSE 150 I will put the out runner motor in an old brushed boat. I have for my daughter.

[Xrayted]

Thats 100C which is 212F. 100F is ice cold for an ESC, and barely above ambient temps in Summer. Normal motor/ESC temps are in the 140-170F range. Just because you cant touch it for long with your fingers doesnt mean the electronics are too hot, any more than touching the exhaust manifold of a car after driving would mean something is wrong with the car. Things are getting too hot once you reach the 200F mark, and you need a proper IR thermometer to make those judgments, not fingers which will typically recoil back within 1-2 seconds at the 130-140F mark.

Set the timing to lowest setting you can. Raising timing does very little for performance if anything at all, but it will make things hotter than they need to be, particularly the caps and wiring, and excessive heat kills caps. I'm not sure what you are referring to regarding the "punch" settings. Thats an RC car setting as far as I am aware. Dynamite ESCs are just rebranded Hobbywing ESCs, and they are known to be very sensitive to over current shutdowns, even if you aren't pushing them that hard, so Im not surprised you were getting shutdowns with the 120. You can also get shutdowns from the per cell voltage lipo cutoff, so you can at the very least set that as low as it will go which I recall is about 3V per cell.

The problem can be weak lipos that will sag voltage badly under hard loads, tripping the cutoff, but then the voltage recovers as soon as the load stops, so the model will run again until you get on it too hard and it all starts over again. I fully disable any voltage settings in any ESC I use, however Ive been in this game for more than 30 years and know how to time things so I know exactly when to come in without killing my lipo.

You MUST be very careful if you fully turn it off unless you have some sort of main pack telemetry in real time to monitor how long you can run. For best battery health, you want a resting pack voltage of no less than 3.7V per cell when you come back in. This puts the loaded voltage down in the 3.3-3.5V per cell range typically which is the bottom of the pack, and there is nothing to be gained past that point other then battery overheating and damage

[Slowy joey]

Thank you I do have my power cut for a low voltage set a 3.4 V. I’m going to turn it down a little bit. I did not break out my temperature gun because the ESC was warm to the touch on the other hand. The motor felt a lot hotter, I am running a fly color 90 it does have a punch setting my battery is new 4000 hundred C i’m gonna turn down the timing and try with another battery

[Slowy joey]

I’m wondering if I damaged the motor with the 120 dynamite it was over reving and making a chatter noise I install the 90 amp fly color because it’s not continuous that had a pretty high burst rating

[Slowy joey]

As a mechanic, I know sometimes you have to undo what you did. I installed a cap pack that I took off of my Arrma 6S Typhon.Esc i’m wondering if that’s causing issues

[Xrayted]

Brushless motor chattering or squealing noise is what will happen if one of the phases is bad, typically due to a cold solder joint in one of the ESC/motor bullets. Did you do a good clean job soldering the bullets on the new ESC, or were they already on there? Its also possible that you got things hot enough at some point, and something desoldered itself while running. It happens a lot in FE boats, and normally it just acts like a fuse and boat stops. In some cases the solder may melt, then harden up again with things not so well placed in the cup any longer, and you not see it or know it happened if under shrink wrap and the boat didn't stop.

Trying to run a motor with a missing phase can ruin it, especially if the phase drops out while running under load, but all should be OK if things operate normally once you get your new ESC set up. How often have you been greasing the shaft? This is another thing many people new to boats miss. Its needs to be greased every 2-3 runs or else the stuffing tube and cable get so hot the teflon liner will melt and cause the cable to bind and be hard to turn, which in turn greatly increases the amp pull and heat in the electronics. Make sure your drive cable is smooth as butter in the tube.

The caps need to be properly rated for the voltage that you are using.

[Slowy joey]

My motor is the opposite and only chatters when there’s no load or without the coupler even hooked up that’s why I thought it was like exceeding its RPM limit the cap pack is for 3 to 6S one thing that I noticed, I put a new cable in and the one in the boat came with and the new one seem like it has a little bit of a wobble to it very slight, but it still doesn’t make sense when you go through the effort to putting a balanced prop kind of defeats the purpose

[Xrayted]

There are different cable setups for 3/16 shafts. Some have a .150 (3.8mm) cable connected to the drive shaft and others are a thicker strand .187 (4.75mm) that is the same as the drive shaft itself. I also have some spare cables that fit a bit tighter in my mono. They dont bind, but some are just a hair more snug than than other cables I have. None of this stuff is made to NASA tolerances though, so some variation is to be expected

The motor issue could still be a poor connection between the motor and ESC. It will resolve itself with the new ESC hopefully

[Slowy joey]

I think my bullets are soldered on pretty good. I hold up my pliers and heat them up off the stove fill them up with sodder and then push the wires in. I get them so hot the wire heats up in my hand.

[Slowy joey]

Thanks for the info. I was a machinist when the business was more lucrative but I actually was machining aviation parts for the US military I guess that’s why most normal people wouldn’t even notice the slight wobble in the shafts I will check the motor connection. I’m just trying to get it right because I am the recovery boat.

[Xrayted]

Are you running a stock setup, or have to changed to a bigger prop, etc?

[Slowy joey]

Stock set up with dasboata prop flycolor 90 esc