Stiletto Race Prep

[Griff]

well after reading and re-reading this thread I took the plunge today and ordered mine, can't wait :)
thanks guys for all the input it made my choice of boat easy, I used to run a tunnel hull back in the day, hope it don't take long to get back in the groove

Tom

[mickvk]

well after reading and re-reading this thread I took the plunge today and ordered mine, can't wait :)
thanks guys for all the input it made my choice of boat easy, I used to run a tunnel hull back in the day, hope it don't take long to get back in the groove

Tom

You'll dig it. THere's also a new Horizon Hobby running video to check out while you're waiting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMjVk6w_8Zs

[Griff]

Well I got my boat and have to say the hull quality is great, the out board though was another thing, the prop could just be turned by hand, if I had run it like this I would have been another with a snapped flex or worse, I carried out the mods outlined here and it's now running free, took it for it's first run and was really pleased with the speed although the nose was running a little too high flipped it a couple of times, so it needs some time adjusting stuff, really pleased with the boat, thanks all for the tips, saved me a whole lotta grief

Tom

[in-d-boat]

Has anyone addressed the issue of cooling the motor first? Then the ESC? Here's what I did. Just seemed like the right thing to do cool the ESC first then the motor. Please give me your take on this. (The other line is for the oiler)28.jpg31.jpg32.jpg

[in-d-boat]

I also made a new cover to replace the clear one. .030 ABS Should a ton easier to tape down and it gives a little more clearance for the steering cables.16.jpg17.jpg18.jpg19.jpg

[in-d-boat]

I also raised the tiller arm to get more cable clearance. I couldn't stand having those cables dragging on that OEM cover. But then I made a new cover anyway. Just makes it a little easier to get the cover on and off.11.jpg12.jpg13.jpg

[Markhpnc]

This is fantastic. Can you share some more details about how you made it and where you got the .03 ABS? Is it just a smaller piece glued on to a larger piece?

I also made a new cover to replace the clear one. .030 ABS Should a ton easier to tape down and it gives a little more clearance for the steering cables.[ATTACH=CONFIG]57098[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57099[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57100[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]57101[/ATTACH]

[in-d-boat]

36.jpg37.jpgI used Evergreen abs sheets. I'm sure Plastruct has .030 plastic as well. Got it from Tower Hobbies. Actually I cut a piece to the inner dimension of the battery compartment. Then cut a piece to the outer dimensions and spaced the two apart with five strips approximately an inch wide. The reason for spacing the inner piece down was so the cover wouldn't slip off sideways when ya tape her down. Plus it makes it a little lighter over using three solid pieces.

[in-d-boat]

38.jpg39.jpgThese are the fittings I used for the oiler and the water exits. I threaded the nut on the fitting first, then cut the nipple off(where the Exacto blade is pointing) (Putting the nut on first, cutting, then removing the nut help keep the threads in place) This makes the fitting a little shorter and easier to work with in that tight space. I drilled out the oiler fitting to 1/8 inch and ran some annealed brass tubing through it. The water exit I did the same thing but drilled it out to accept 5/32tubing. I'm happy with it.

[in-d-boat]

33.jpgAnd what's with this 3/8 inch(wrench size) nut??????? Did your boats come with this goofy thing on it? Musta run out of the correct ones and slapped on what they had.20.jpg I also drilled out the two 4MM motor mounting screws to 8/32. For a longer bolt. I couldn't put any flat washers on the 4MM screws and have any room for the Nyloc nut. No flat washers on a slotted adjustment isn't a good idea. Also has anyone tightened the two screws down only to have the motor still move in the mount? The upper bolt hole on the motor had too much tolerance in it and you can't tighten the screw tight enough to pinch the motor tight. Was another reason for going to a slightly larger bolt. I also made a .013 shim to take up the space between the motor and the mount on the top hole.

[Markhpnc]

Where did you get the 8/32 screws? Mine also came with the 3/8 nut on the prop and I asked the same question

[in-d-boat]

40.jpgI got the 8/32 stainless steel screws at Home Depot along with some SS washers (already had the Nyloc nuts). I bought them a little long and cut them to fit. Also bought the new flange nut (Zuber nut) from Kintec (OSE has them as well) and double nutted it with a 10/32 Octura bullet. Much more attractive I think.

[CHIEFY_44]

you might want to change the outdrive for one from hyperformance the original ones develop a lot of play very fast imo

[in-d-boat]

PSA.jpg Thanks Chiefy. You do mean just the prop shaft assembly, right? And get one of their cables as well? Supposed to be good from what I've read.

[CHIEFY_44]

Yeah exactly what I mean I was being hurried up when I posted that message, yeah talk to them directly and tell them you want the flex shaft with the black spiral line along its length its a drop in fit, I run both and never had a problem since with broken shafts or a sloppy drive