Little Twin G
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Tubes are in.These should be the least obstructive ones I've done yet. That is 3/16 cable 1" long in the collet and into the 7/32 tube. Also had extra epoxy so stuck the servo mount in.
On the stinger side I ran the tube inside 1/8.I then put a long stub shaft through to center the tube in the stinger. I tweaked the tubes till I was satisfied with the whole fit.
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I am moving right along on this build this week.Now the rudder system. I did have a couple of boots in the supplies so I drilled/dremaled a matching hole to the original.I can also use the top original screw holes but will need to fill the bottom ones.
Here is the boots installed,sorry bout the pic,I'm having to use the old cam indoors
And here is my trick for getting the blind nuts started,take another Cap Screw and slip it into some tubing and get a blind nut just started on that.Place a mirror in the hull and start the rudder bolt on the blind nut,you can then manipulate you're finger to hold the blind nut while tightening the rudder bolt.
And the back part finished
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Looks great shawn but i noticed something you forgot!!! you probly should have filled the transume where the rudder bolts go threw with epoxy to reinforce the rudder's mounting spot!!! either way its coming along nicely, keep it up..Comment
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I have to run epoxy to fill the spare old bracket holes.This will be a good time to embed everything in.Still contemplating putting the patented aluminum backing plate in as well.Probably not though. I'm just hitting this thing before work for an hour or so here and there.Thanks for the reminder though Jerry.Comment
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Due to the constraints of the mounting surface for the stingers I feel it is best that I add this ply onto the ride pads.This will move the props up a bit in relation to the water surface as well as quickly doing the blueprinting.
I also epoxied the ply back 1cm to give a clean edge and cover the open section of the stinger and hopefully stop the water"pressure" from shooting up the flex.
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Something about a little overpowered twin that gets my blood going!! You were saying "tame", but you can prop up with the shared motor load. Whats this supposed to hit.............55-60 mph?
Nice jobNEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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Nice, I like the ply. That makes the blueprinting alot easier and adds strength too. The ply is also a simple way to help blueprint sponsons for a single Geico as well. If its done cleanly there is little or no repainting to do depending on a persons tastes.
I think I will do this to my single in the winter but, just 1/32 ply.Nortavlag Bulc
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Getting the bottom cleaned up good.This is the third coat of glazing putty.
This is it sanded and ready for one more coat(I hope).
Nice and straight
And I put a taper on the outside chine in hopes of stopping any flipping in corners.This may promote "sliding",but that is fun and I don't think you get much of that with a twin.
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They look like chocolate bars! yum! yum!My Aquacraft SV27's old Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoTm4Btz41Q
MHZ Micro Iceberg, Skunksworks Gen2 Cat twin, Aquacraft SV27, SM29 1515 sold.Comment
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Still mussing with the putty a bit but in the meantime started some cooling mods.Don't feel like waiting for an order so made my own T,3/16 down to 9/32 out. I'll be using 4mm Autobahn tube from the rudder to the T.
The piece on the left gets installed in the rudder for a slightly larger flow.
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Still mussing with the putty a bit but in the meantime started some cooling mods.Don't feel like waiting for an order so made my own T,3/16 down to 9/32 out. I'll be using 4mm Autobahn tube from the rudder to the T.
The piece on the left gets installed in the rudder for a slightly larger flow.
TIA
MikeDo It Like You Mean It .....or Don't BotherComment
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I got this one off Steve here(OSE). It is the center mount one.http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80057Comment
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