Your MG that started off as a hull

[CHIEFY_44]

i don't use teflon in my mg i just upgraded the flex and removed the teflon works great never had a problem

[macdon]

I would be more concerned with wearing the flex or the tube,not sure which would go first.I snapped mine on my old mono(circa 1989)last week.Right in the middle.I'm guessing due to corrosion.Looked good to me but apparently not.Geez,12-15 years away from the hobby and I sure miss some stuff.LOL

I havent snapped a flex yet - well, since Im currently new to this hobby (6mos.), I guess its bound to happen sooner or later. Lol!
Without the teflon tube, the flex shaft will freely move all over the stuffing tube - cant really say if this is good for the shaft thou. However, the ends of the stuffing tube may need a bit of teflon as the stuffing tube edges may burr into the shaft in time.

[macdon]

i don't use teflon in my mg i just upgraded the flex and removed the teflon works great never had a problem

Thanks for sharing Chiefy - I may go that route as well or add a bit of teflon lengths on both ends of the stuffing tube. No water getting in thru the stuffing tube in your MG?

I really never thought that the 'hull & canopy' only MG would have a stuffing tube installed, but since its there - dont wanna really tear if off the hull.

[CHIEFY_44]

I use the standard stuffing tube no teflon amd a 187 flex, you can add a small bit of fuel tube over the stuffing tube this will stop the water coming in, you could also use extra grease on flex will do same job.
I get a very small amount of water in mine but nothing to worry about.

[macdon]

I use the standard stuffing tube no teflon amd a 187 flex, you can add a small bit of fuel tube over the stuffing tube this will stop the water coming in, you could also use extra grease on flex will do same job.
I get a very small amount of water in mine but nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the suggestion chiefy - will look into that fuel tube idea.

[macdon]

Okay, I finally got the wooden partitions out.

To those who took out theirs, did you get to remove it intact? Well, mine didnt go quietly.....Lol! With the aid of a hair dryer, long nose pliers, dremel and a lot of elbow grease hahaha! No damage on both inside & outside the hull.
Jeesh, doing this on a bnew hull - I must be crazy!
Its a tad lighter now thou haha!

BTW - you guys ever thought of moving the motor a bit forward to add more weight to the front?
I could see 2 problems - either the angle of the stuffing tube wont allow it as the motor will go high and will limit the motor sizes as it will hit the hatch.

[srislash]

I moved mine back ever so slightly.I was trying to grab more stock flex cable and its easier to move batteries around than a motor mount that is too far forward.Go ahead ask me how I know.The little mono can hook in real bad now and theres nothing I can do about it.That mount is structural.Weight too far forward will make the MG trip in turns.Its gentle but still upside down.

[macdon]

I moved mine back ever so slightly.I was trying to grab more stock flex cable and its easier to move batteries around than a motor mount that is too far forward.Go ahead ask me how I know.The little mono can hook in real bad now and theres nothing I can do about it.That mount is structural.Weight too far forward will make the MG trip in turns.Its gentle but still upside down.

Good point!

Just recently I was reading some owners moving things forward a bit as their MG's bow seems to lift up to the point that it might blow over. But as you said, batteries would be easier to move than motors.

Earlier, I was buying stainless screws for various boat projects and since I was in the neighborhood of a machine shop, I had them made some brass standoffs. I also tried a short length of stuffing tube that fits the inside of the strut.
I hated the pile of wood mess when I removed the wooden partitions from the MG - so I assembled them again and might be useful in the future.

[srislash]

Those look good.How clean is the water you run in?By clean I mean sticks and stuff.I am just paranoid now but if you hit anything without breakaway screws it could be disasterous.Did you reinforce the transom standout at all

[tiqueman]

the rudder itself has a break away point. Hes good

[macdon]

Those look good.How clean is the water you run in?By clean I mean sticks and stuff.I am just paranoid now but if you hit anything without breakaway screws it could be disasterous.Did you reinforce the transom standout at all

I guess its like most ponds - there are times when there's debris and times that seem clear. We cant really tell whats down there.......lol! I play with my kids and waking them up early on a sunday is a whole lot of chore in itself - so we typically arrive late always. My fellow boaters have been there since 1-2 hours earlier so im hoping that they've cleared most debris by the time we arrive - Lol! Aside from electrics, they have large gas boats so im naturally hoping the waves they produce clears most away haha!
Just 2 weeks ago, a large patch of waterlilies was slowly crossing the pond - its like a moving island. A lot of the members just ran circles around it till it passed. There was one time that when I got my boat, I noticed that my rudder was swept back (it has that safety feature) along with my right turn fin. Moments later a dead Plecostomus (sucker fish?) was seen floating - cant really tell who among us hit it or if it died of natural causes. I guess thats part of our hobby.

I havent still decided on my current hardware - maybe run in-line, offset or even get a new bracket and bolt the rudder straight to the transom. But since I was in the machine shop yesterday - I had them make the standoffs so that if I decide on using it - I would have them ready.
My fiberglass workers are still busy with other projects - so once they have time I would be electing to reinforce the hull, seams and transom with some fiberglass. So for now, Im just collecting bits & pieces that I may be using for the MG.

Possible Motors:
While rummaging thru my parts bin, I found the ff motors that could be used in MG:
Left = Keda 3674 1900kv
Middle = Keda 3660 2200kv
right = Turnigy 3674 2200kv

I'll be checking on motor mounts next - I dunno if I can use the mount that is on my turnigy (right most in the picture) as the angle of the stuffing tube seems high. Unless of course if I cut the stuffing tube a bit. Did you guys cut a portion of the stuffing tube to lower its angle?

[JackBlack26]

Make your own rails for the 2 piece motor mount out of aluminum flat stock since it's made for a V hull.





I made this mount for my Geico for pretty much a trip to the local metal mart, but the aluminum for the side rails I got at the LHS. It was made to fit an 1800kv 1512. Copied the rails just made them taller.


then made this one for my outrunner.

[macdon]

Make your own rails for the 2 piece motor mount out of aluminum flat stock since it's made for a V hull.

I made this mount for my Geico for pretty much a trip to the local metal mart, but the aluminum for the side rails I got at the LHS. It was made to fit an 1800kv 1512. Copied the rails just made them taller.


then made this one for my outrunner.

Thanks for posting your mount pics, Jackblack!
That triangular mount on your 2nd pic looks very pointed - I hope you dont cut yourself.

I could use the sv27 mount as seen in the middle motor in my pic above - and probably make a triangular mount/rail out of cardboard to act as a pattern for either a metal or fiberglass rail.
Yup, Im fearing that the rails would be taller than usual.

[macdon]

Here's a cardboard mock-up of the rail for the motor mount. I could use it as a pattern to make into fiberglass or metal.

[srislash]

Just make sure everything is cool with battery removal and such and you are good to go.I had to make my own rails as all purchased ones were too low.