Transom fix

[srislash]

Well I hit a stick in the water Saturday and now have to fix the transom of the MG.I was thinking a few layers of cloth on the inside and possibly a stainless backing threaded backing plate(and of coarse plastic bolts on the rudder).Any other suggestions out there.
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[Diegoboy]

I don't own the MG, how thick is the transom doubler?

[srislash]

It just seems to be about 1/4" of glass and a piece of 1/8" ply to hold the blind nuts,one of which I had stripped.

[srislash]

Geico transom 001.jpgWell I tried to knock out the blind nuts to install an aluminum backing block to put threads into for the strut.I ended up finishing the cracks off and opening it right up.There is no cloth at all in this part.The current plan is to continue with the block idea so it is a taper fit to the rounded sides of the transom and lay some glass or CF and fix it up cosmetically.Any other ideas guys?

[srislash]

transom fix 003.jpgtransom fix 001.jpgWell heres my fix for the transom.It's 1/4 aluminum and will give me somthing to thread for the strut and rudder bracket. Got holes in it so resin can flow,just contemplating incorperating cloth into it or not.Gonna end up with a pretty good layer of resin to bring it back to stock but no more than was there originally.Sorry about the page layup,I'll get it figured out yet.

[Crawler Ted]

Pick up your socks .

[tiqueman]

Id mix in some shredded cloth or mat to fill that area. And make sure the aluminum is scuffed really well so it has something to bite to. Looks good. Heack of a repair

[srislash]

Thanks for the tip.I was hoping to get it as strong as possible.Probably putting it together in the am.

[srislash]

And there it is.Epoxied in,strut screws are threaded.I threaded them before installing the plate,just greased the threads so epoxy wouldn't adhere to them.I'm gonna let it harden for the day and then figure out where the rudder rod will come through.
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[jasoncyclone]

The work on the ride pads looks GOOD!!!! Keep up the good work. I think that the ride pad mod is one of the most important on the MG.

[srislash]

Yeah I'm doing all the stuff that should be done now after I experienced a 60+ blowover,made a new mount that will support both ends of the motor.Thanks in part to tips from tiqueman.More to come.

[srislash]

hull fix 001.jpghull fix 002.jpghull fix 003.jpgGeez,this is turning into quite the project.When this hull was bought from my LHS it was a good deal because ($250 all in)of a hairline crack at the joinline that I felt confident enough to fix if it became a problem,WELL...So I ground the epoxy off the inside of the hull in the area of the crack.I figure the cloth (CF) would be better off and stronger on the flat rather than over and around the pile of goup that was put there by the factory.It's a good thing a new paint scheme came to me a couple weeks back,she's gonna need it.

[srislash]

The work on the ride pads looks GOOD!!!! Keep up the good work. I think that the ride pad mod is one of the most important on the MG.

Thanks so much Jason.I'm trying glazing putty,not sure if it will hold up for squaring the edges but we'll find out.

[JackBlack26]

The glazing putty is what I used because it's light and easy to work with. Should hold up well. Just make sure to sand with 600 grit so you don't take off too much off the edges.

[srislash]

So I have my seam fixed(pic 3),except for a little putty before primer.The motor mount in(pic 1),and the hole reamed for the rudder rod.The bracket is one that I made from some extruded aluminum,.The hole that I had made in it proved to be too large and therefore weakened it.It was mangled from the incident but was straitened so I could proceed.I have another piece a little wider/stronger that I will make do the job.I am also moving the water outlet as it was a pain for battery installment.Oh yeah,narrowed and lowered the battery trays.
Any suggestions as to where to install the water outlet?
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