Mg all out no limits upgrade advise needed
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MaxM,
the s220 sure looked and sounded fast. were you taking any gps readings? which one was your fastest run?
JP,
Tore mine apart today. took everything out and will be adding carbon fiber inside and also going to give it a full paint job. It's going to be a BSH when it's done. I know, sorry MG fans but got to look after my sponsors. It will still be a MG just in red with different stickers. I'm upgrading allmost everything. leo4047 2200KV SK180 4s2p and a 5s1p setup for after a couple cocktails. Will try to post some pics as we move ahead. Then you can see what everyones input has produced.Miss Geico?Comment
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Okay here we go, sorry it took a little wile to get these up. Will take some more tomorrow. Testing/tweaking is ongoing. will get some vid's up soon. This boat came out awesome!
IMG-20110725-00262.jpgIMG-20110808-00265.jpgIMG-20110808-00264.jpgIMG-20110916-00283.jpgIMG-20110921-00294.jpgMiss Geico?Comment
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Still tuning on it. It's very heavy on 4s2p but great run time 10min or so. quite stable though. 5s1p is much lighter and screaming fast 60.6 mph gps. Cooling is a problem. Copied JP's setup on his first MG and it hasn't worked well for me. I'm going to go back to the rudder pick up for main ESC and motor jacket and use the hull pick ups for the motor mount and ESC bottom plate. Here's some more pics with the top on.IMG-20110926-00300.jpgIMG-20110926-00301.jpgIMG-20110926-00303.jpgIMG-20110926-00304.jpgIMG-20110926-00305.jpgMiss Geico?Comment
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Maybe look at the holes in your in hull pickups. Make sure water has a smooth un-obstructed flow into the nipple. Maybe even file the forward grooves a little to help direct water to the intake part.
I'll be making dual in hull pickups in my twin project. I won't be using the store bought duals this time. But making them myself from 3/16 copper tubing.Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.Comment
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Thanks JP, I'll try that. If I did it again I would do what you just said. 4mmish ID copper tube but bent so that the intake faces forward. That I think will work awesome for you. I'm running with a motor jacket and water cooled mount as well as on my ESC I'm using the main heat plate and a second one that the ESC sits on top of. So I think I'm going to run the hull intakes to the mount and 2ed cooling plate and run the rudder pick up to the main ESC cooling plate and the motor jacket. If that doesn't cool this girl down then I give up.Miss Geico?Comment
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Sometimes you have to slow the water flow a little so the heat exchanges better, just a thoughtSocal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180Comment
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Just noticed after looking at this on my pc vs the phone. I see what appears to be raised areas all around the aluminum squares of the in hull intakes? If this is so it can hinder their effectiveness a good bit. They should be perfectly flat and flush with the rest of the ride pad area.
Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.Comment
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What your seeing is the imprint of the marine tex. I didn't bother to fair that out. (Way to lazy for that :) I did how ever intentionally mount them with a slight down angle from fwd to aft to try to help with flow into the intakes. And, with the hope that it would give the boat just a little bit of down tab effect as at super high speed, especially in less then perfect conditions (which is usually the case for me), the boat can get pretty squirrelly. That seems to have worked so far but has probably cost me some speed.
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I think your right that grinding out the intakes some and maybe smoothing that flange a little should help flow the water in. I'm still going to run the rudder pick up back into the boat as well and then we should be golden.
IMG-20110927-00310.jpgMiss Geico?Comment
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