Is is just me or do you pretty much have to give a away proboat electronics, it just seems like there are a lot of them out there and need to be priced cheap to sell. I am glad I did not get a miss g and try to sell the electronics.
proboat electronics worhtless??
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And sell me the Stiletto motor... cheapComment
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Such a shame you have to buy a RTR product, when REALLY it's not. I mean, it's like a toy at the store untill you mod it out.
You should have just bought the hull. Like I should have. Love the boat, but everything inside had to go, since I blew up 2 stock speed controls.
After replacing EVERYTHING inside, and fixing the rudder issue, it runs great now. Such a shame it comes the way it does. Why can't someone make a real race ready boat??? Maybe one day...Comment
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This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...DJI Drone Advanced Pilot
CanadaComment
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Yeah I think for out of the box, you cant get a better boat than the MG. I dont know why you had so many issues w/ the Speedy hobie. What were you doing to cause this???????? I think the PB electronics are fantastic. I did change my ESC out to a T-120, but only because Im swinging larger props to get my speeds up in race conditions. I dont want to risk blowing the stock speedy.Comment
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I'm not sure. I might have over done it by running 5s, but my temps weren't hot, but then I was told heat wouldn't be the main factor. But after my smoke show, my servo started twitching all the time. So I had to replace that, then to be safe I got rid of the stock radio system and went to a tactic. I also just recieved yesterday, my new T-120, so I think I will be on the safe side. Im planning on running a 445 or 447 on 5s. I also put an Ammo 1800kv motor in it.
Oh, my esc just stopped working, no smoke or nothing. It would even program and arm properly, just wouldn't spin the motor. I grabbed my buddies, and his was the one that smoked. And even tho proboat said they would replace it, nothing has shown up. And I tried to email them again, asking about the status, and I don't even get a reply. So customer service isn't very good either. Just everything about proboat has left a bad taste in my mouth. This was my first proboat purchase, and most likely my last.Comment
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It is very easy to over-amp the spec setups just by using large props and high performance packs. I ran a 50 mph setup in my FE-30 with the UL-1 motor and AQ 60 amp ESC without problems, but when I switched to a Castle ICE100 I was logging 70-80 amps and spikes over 110 with no other changes. So some spec ESCs are clearly under-rated. I haven't used the 45 amp PB controllers so I don't know much about them, but others have used them in higher amp draw setups. The new PB controller in the Stiletto is nice, but mine is very touchy at low throttle.
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This is an interesting topic for sure. My experiences with Proboat ESC's are mixed, but are mostly positive. The ESC that came with my MG performed perfectly, until I over powered it. I didn't realize that the boat came wired in "series", so whatever batteries I used, the ESC and motor were seeing double the voltage of the voltage listed on the battery. So if you are using two 11.1 volt batteries, that is really yielding 22.2 volts. If the boat is wired in parallel the voltage to them would remain at 11.1 V, but the mAh doubles. As I understand it.
If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.
Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!
Who the heck thought of this? And why not make it easier for simple folks like me to figure this stuff out. I have been searching for a very simple chart that provides conversations for these different units of energy, so I can calculate the right and safe combinations. I am not an electrician or electrical engineer. I guess I have to go back to school to learn this stuff, just need to know where the school is, other than toasting a few things.
Having said all that, I still have to ask the smarter RC chaps to break the code for me. I know now that you can't use a 45 amp ESC with a pair 11.1v 3 cell lipos when wired in series, which I now know equals 6s. I was very lucky that I only toasted the ESC, and not the whole boat! It was very exciting to see the speed that combo produced for maybe a few very fast passes before it produced a black cloud of smoke that is as pungent a smell as a dead body. Sorry about the gross comparison, but anyone who has toasted an ESC knows what I am talking about. That was my fault not the ESC's.
The only negative thing I can report on is on one model of their ESC that is in my Proboat Classic Runabout. It refuses to operate with any 2.4 ghz radio system. It works fine with the stock 27 mgh radio. I have tried 6 of them to no avail. It will operate the rudder servo but not the motor. It will operate everything if you reverse the two plugs, but then the throttle controls the rudder and the rudder controls the throttle. Proboat has been very good about replacing them, but can't explain why they don't work. The instructions even say this ESC can be used with 2.4 systems.
So for now, I am back to that POS radio that it came with. I am sure unless someone can tell me how to get this particular speed control to work with one of my 2.4 radios, I will end up replacing it with a different brand ESC.
I have several other Proboats that all work as advertised, so with that one issue with my runabout, I am good with their stuff. I haven't found better people to do business with and that is saying a lot. I agree that for the money, they provide fair value. I have been around HP cars and boats for many years and know that the faster you want to go, the more expensive it gets and it is the same with RC boats.
Still think it would be nice to locate a simple reference chart that would help lay people learn without toasting stuff. Perhaps one of you advanced fellows can point me in the direction of such a reference tool. I'd promise to study it!
Thank you
BoomerLast edited by Boomer; 12-01-2010, 01:51 AM.Comment
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This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...
Bottom line, everything has it's limits and specially these boats since we all use different C rated batteries, some of us use "cheap" HobbyCity packs, bigger or different props, and some even alter the weight of the boat. For the money and used as intended you should not have any issues. If my ESC does burn out while running it as intended, then I'll call Horizen. I have never had an issues with them replacing a burned item within a certain amount of time as long as I provide them with a receipt.
Happy boating!
RafaelComment
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