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That's interesting... I'm still on my first one, and I'm pretty sure I've run this thing harder than any of the rest of you to this point... I run mine to TRY to break things... It's kind of what they (ProBoat) expect me to do.
If you still have the "failing" or "failed" shaft, why don't you package it up and send it to me so I can analyze it and see what the problem might be? Then I can feedback the info to ProBoat and perhaps improve upon something. Contact me through PM if you'd like to do this.
Properly cared for, however, there is no reason why the factory shaft shouldn't have a normal lifespan....Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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I tossed it Darin. I tried heating it afterwards to salvage the stub shaft but had no luck, so I threw it all away. Ive heard from a few people the same scenarios. As for maintaining, I use grim grease (tip to tail) and a few drop of 3n1 oil along w/ the grease on the stub shaft. I also had the sieze problem w/ the factory strut bushings. This could have been what did the damage to my shaft. It did not break but there was only about 25% of it hanging on about 3/4" up from the stub. Fortunatley though it did not seize hard and came apart easily. Ives since gone to different strut bushings and Octura flex and stub shafts. I now have several runs, several hard runs, and no isuues.
On a side note as you think most of us dont know what we are doing when we break stuff (not saying that as sarcasm, just saying it) Ive been running boats since 1991, so I know how to properly care for a shaft.Comment
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Thanks Darin, I might have one of the shafts I can have you put under the micro scope. This could be interesting to see what happened to it. I don't want to go to the post office this time of year though... We could meet at star bucks? I am off today.Comment
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The problem with the Proboat shaft assembly is that the Prop Shaft is NOT counter drilled deep enough for enough cable to be inserted and properly bonded to the shaft.
When the cable problems first came to light I had the correct lay of cable, and when I removed the original cable on inspection the prop shaft IS NOT DRILLED DEEP ENOUGH.
The Octura prop shafts are. I used the Octura shaft and NO Problems.There is no replacement for displacement, I guess I just have to Buzz it higher!
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Is this the one available in the ose store?Comment
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Oops?
Tiqueman
Thanks for the clarification. I ment to say by running the pair of 3s and in series, which made really made I was running it on 6s (cell) which made the boat go like a rocket just before it went CA BLEWIE! So, I was concerned if he was running a pair of 4s he'd be going to smoke the ESC. Before a got the the 3s, I was running a pair of 2s which gave the boat good speed, but nothing, I repeat nothing like the pair of 3s, or 6s as it turned out.
It would have be nice to know how fast it really went before I killed ESC!!The difference was amazing!
Is there a simple formula or way to calculate this stuff? I'd would rather not smoke any more ESCs. I would like to understand how to match battery outputs, to the Amp rating of the ESC, and both to the KV of the motor.
When my stock motors go south on my MG, EKOS and Genesis, I want to repower them with higher performance motors. My goals would be to have them running in the mid forties to perhaps, fifty mph, and to match components so I don't end up just creating small bombs that are just waiting to go off.
I have 2s, 3s and 4s 5000mha 30 and 40c batteries and some new 120A ESCs to play with. As you know two of these boats are single motors, and the EKOS has dual motors with 60amp ESC (1 for each motor). I would anticipate upgrading the ESC in the EKOS to at least 120A, but again, that will depend on the motors I go with. The Genesis came with a 125a ESC so, I have a little room there. I see the guys going with 180 and 240a ESC, but that is when you start spending the big dollars.
I have read so many threads with guys talking about the motors they upgrade to, but am not sure how they select them. Once you get that doped out then you have to figure out which props to use.
This is really interesting, but it is hard to find this kind of information clearly stated.
It seems like a trial and error thing for the most part. Any tips are appreciated.
Thank you
BoomerLast edited by Boomer; 12-15-2010, 12:46 PM.Comment
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Boomer, one of the biggest tools a lot of people use is FeCalc. If you have not downloaded it yet, do so, as it will help you tremendously. As for motors and options it does not have, you can usually find something close to get you in the ball park. It has motor selection, esc selections and prop selections to give you a rough estimate starting point.Tiqueman
Thanks for the clarification. I ment to say by running the pair of 3s and in series, which made really made I was running it on 6s (cell) which made the boat go like a rocket just before it went CA BLEWIE! So, I was concerned if he was running a pair of 4s he'd be going to smoke the ESC. Before a got the the 3s, I was running a pair of 2s which gave the boat good speed, but nothing, I repeat nothing like the pair of 3s, or 6s as it turned out.
It would have be nice to know how fast it really went before I killed ESC!!The difference was amazing!
Is there a simple formula or way to calculate this stuff? I'd would rather not smoke any more ESCs. I would like to understand how to match battery outputs, to the Amp rating of the ESC, and both to the KV of the motor.
When my stock motors go south on my MG, EKOS and Genesis, I want to repower them with higher performance motors. My goals would be to have them running in the mid forties to perhaps, fifty mph, and to match components so I don't end up just creating small bombs that are just waiting to go off.
I have 2s, 3s and 4s 5000mha 30 and 40c batteries and some new 120A ESCs to play with. As you know two of these boats are single motors, and the EKOS has dual motors with 60amp ESC (1 for each motor). I would anticipate upgrading the ESC in the EKOS to at least 120A, but again, that will depend on the motors I go with. The Genesis came with a 125a ESC so, I have a little room there. I see the guys going with 180 and 240a ESC, but that is when you start spending the big dollars.
I have read so many threads with guys talking about the motors they upgrade to, but am not sure how they select them. Once you get that doped out then you have to figure out which props to use.
This is really interesting, but it is hard to find this kind of information clearly stated.
It seems like a trial and error thing for the most part. Any tips are appreciated.
Thank you
Boomer
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ghlight=fecalc
EDIT: Also Boomer, pick yourself up an eagle tree data logger if you havent one already. Its a fantastic tool and keeps the guessing out of already built set ups, and new set ups as a double check to see if you end up where you thought you would.Comment
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I was one of the few that got the correct prop shaft from the start and i requested the replacement they offered for free not relising that mine was turned in the correct rotations, i check it after every 4 runs to make sure all is well, no problems here with it but i use engine assembly lube on my shaft and havent seen any signs of friction wear, pretty much wipes clean with a towel, im kinda wondering the same as darin whats going on there with the breakage and whats the cause. Now assembly lube may not be the correct stuff to run on this shaft but it seems to do a good job for mine
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