Guys... be careful just using the amount of strut sticking up the top of the strut bracket for your measurements... The first batch of boats that went out, had the strut brackets mounted too low on the transom (compared to where I had specified they go and where the strut was designed to be), which is why there is a minimum amount of prop clearance. This is suppose to have been adjusted on future batches of boats. Not sure when that show up in the production line, however.
It's always best to measure from a setup board to the centerline or bottom of the strut itself.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Our struts are not up that high. Just about 1/8" showing on top of bracket. This puts the centerline of the prop in line with bottom of ride pads.
Stringfly <>++++
As I said, I went form as low as possible w/ different angles neg to pos to as high as possible.. thats just where I stopped. I started w/ it w/ the centerline of the strut w/ the ride pads as you suggest and the strut angle neutral while on a table top.
More testing today and feel like Im getting somewhere. I started w/ the strut neutral and about 1/2 below the bottom of the hull. Batteries were half inch off the back of the trays. Bounce bounce bonce. I left the batteries alone for all of the adjustment. I angled the strut down slightly, then up slightly.. bounce bounce bounce. I tried lowering the strut. And again went thru 2 different up angles and 2 different down, including neutral.. bounce bounce bounce. I then started slowly adjusting it higher and higher, again using all angles and it slooooowly began showing improvement. It seemed a slight positive and higher depth is what it wanted. I moved it up to clear by thousandths of the bracket and had the best run yet. However after bringing it in, she slipped a tad and the prop contacted the bracket just slightly. I re-set it, tweaked the prop and then I tried messing w/ the rudder angle. I tucked it forward, it seems to have brought the bow down in the straights, BUT, the bounce was almost gone. I pulled it back out just a bit and runing w/ the wind in about a 1/4" to 1/2" chop, light breeze, no bounce at all. Running into the wind she bounces minimally. My strut is angle slightly up and as high as it can go before the prop (642) contacts the strut bracket. Darin had mentioned that some of the struts were mounted at the bottom and caused issues w/ prop clearance. I feel I need to go a smidgen higher, but, My strut is one that is mounted at the bottom of the transom. Im going to remove part of the tail of the bracket to see if I can get enough clearance and if it is in fact my resolution before I go removing the bracket and drilling new holes in my pretty boat. I actually feel like Im getting somewhere.
Most importantly as Darin said, the strut brackets on these boats apperently arent all mounted in the same location. I feel its important in the "helping of others" that we get back to refering to the strut angle as compared to the bottom of the boat while sitting on a flat surface and not the "top of the strut" like we somehow got into on this.
Darin, thanks for your help in this set up. I was told by a reputable racer about pulling the rudder out.... DEFINITLEY not the thing to do. Since it was cornering wonderfully to begin with, I never thought to try tucking it in.... Thanks!
I installed the kintec bracket today and looked at some of the pictures from others postings. Some rudders are in the rear location and some in the front location. What is the proper location?
Correct me if im wrong but if the rudder is positioned further away from the transom as in the stock location on the m/g, isn't this why the boat handles so well on turning? I would think moving the rudder closer in that it would have some inpact on handling???
well i got my rudder bracket today and all went well on the installation.......i thought! I powered the radio up and had some binding on the right turn to the steering rod that was corrected by shimming the tie rod end, all looked good so off to the water shed i went............apon arival i noted some ice along the edges and found a spot to launch m/g............tapped the throttle and turned left but miss G went right.........right back into the ice off shore and got stuck, all i could do was laugh at myself for being (over excited) and not checking turning after i flipped the rudder arm to other side during installation, lucky for me no harm was done to rudder or my new bracket set up. Will double check my settings from now on. Guess thats what i get for leaving work early but a bad day of testing is better than a good day at work ...
Went with second version rudder relocate kit from kintec racing, the guys here told me about the prop wash issue that makes the boat bounce and how to correct it, its a nice kit for the money and i havent gotten to run my m/g today to really tune it in, they also told me to buy the break away screws just as a precaution measure. Im getting ready to install a higher rpm motor soon and have a octura x642 balanced prop on the way.......these guys wont steer ya wrong....im lucky to have found this site, i think half these guys here have gills!!!!
You craced me up with the gills comment. Your right though there are some good guys here. I got the same kintec su too. Have not run it yet, have only ran mine with the stock rudder and got her gps'ed at 37 with 4s. Broke 2 flex cables though. I called horizon today and they are shipping me 2 out. I was shocked!
kjohnsiii
You said you are running your MG on 4s? What ESC are you running? These boats are wired in series, which doubles the voltage your boats systems are seeing.
I tried my MG on 3s, and toasted the stock 45 amp ESC. The boat ran like a rabbit on steroids before it went up in smoke.
I was fortunate that the damage was limited to the ESC, but it took a lot of work to get the smell out of the boat, and to clean up all the smoke that stuck to the inside of the hull. I have since installed a 120 AMP ESC.
Please be carefull.
Boomer
Boomer, for clarification, saying 4S is correct. You ran yours on 6S, not 3S to blow it up. 3S it would do 20mph. 4S is what these run on.... doesnt matter how you get it there, as long as the end result is 14.8 volts (4S). I run 2, 4S packs in mine... 4S2P for racing. I run 1P for sport running and testing.
more clarification.... high voltage boats often use several packs of bateries.. lets say for an extreme example its running 12S... in theory you could use 6, 2S packs in series. Doesnt mean its a 2S boat and would not be called a 2S boat... its a 12S boat. Hope that helped.
Thanks boomer for the safety tip. I have a 200 amper coming for now. So it's all good now.
kjohn, if your keeping it stock, theres really no reason for that large an esc. If you plan on running 5 and 6S, then yes, its a good idea or if your going to try to swing a larger prop than say a 42mm.
Also, get away from the Horizon Proboat flex shafts. They are junk and you will continue to break them and have problems. I got 4 runs out of mine before it starting showing failure. OSE sells a great aftermarket shaft that will last, if well taken care of, years and years of running.
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