What happens if your Motor Runs Hot?

[MaxxPain]

Well, I have run the boat a few times and the motor temps were max 86 degrees. The batteries were around 105 though, a bit hot. I also noticed when the LVC kicked in and I was bringing it in, I saw 10.89 volts on my controller when I applied full throttle. Which is too close for my comfort. I think in the future, as soon as I notice any loss of power or slow down at all, I will be bringing it in from now on. The other issue I have is my React controller seems to start at a higher throttle, which I'm seeing if I can adjust the throttle curve. I took some video this past weekend. You'll see what I mean when I start off. But anyways, I'm having a blast with the boat. Thankfully the water temps here are in the 70's so going after it is not a problem. But I'm in search of some super calm water to do some fun filming with the pontoon boat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvJGKnQ6P_A

[Ub Hauled]

Hey Maxx...
nice looking video... I like how you follow the pantoon boat and haul away at will, hehehehe.
105 on the batteries is NOT BAD AT ALL... if after a long run you have 120-130 it is still acceptable.
beyond that is not good. you absolutely have to work on the cutoff voltage.... that is way to low for a 4 cell pack. It should be at least 12.8v

[Fluid]

Several things just do not make sense here. Did the OP use a watch to time his runs, or is he just guessing? Is he running two 4S2P 8000 mAh packs wired as 4S4P, or one pack at a time? I can't see the video, how fast is the boat running?

He really should be starting his runs with the packs at 100F. This will give higher speeds and longer run times. As long as the packs are not over 140F maximum at the end of a run they are okay, although I prefer them to be under 135F. And to avoid further damage to the packs he should invest in a better low voltage cutoff that kicks in when the cell voltage drops below 3.3 volts - 3.0 is too low and it allows the cells to drop below that voltage on the return, as the 10.9 volt reading indicates (that's just 2.7 volts per cell and is damaging).



.

[MaxxPain]

The packs are dual 2s2p wired up to make it a 4s4p. Yes I understand what you’re saying now. 2.7v is too low. I did some looking around. Thank you. On my E-Maxx, I use a Novak 4s LVC module and that is set to kick in at 12.5 volts. So I’ll take your advice and install one of these vers using the LVC on the ECS. As for the run time, I don't drive my boat at full speed 100% of the time. Kinda like in the video, I'll cruise along side my pontoon boat which in that video the max we got to was 20mph. Seems faster but its more the wind noise that makes it sound fast. But just cruising at a more constant speed vers back and fourth and up and down the RPM range which uses more power is probably why the extended run times. I do make full speed runs but not all the time. For timing, the only time I have is with my video cam. For example I have 17mins of filming which maxed out my 2gig card from 2 weekends ago. I wasn’t sure on the temps on the batteries. I know my Ice charger stops charging if the batteries reach a 100 degrees. So I figured that was around or close to the max temp. But thank you for the clarification. Yea I like cruising along side the pontoon. But it’s a bit hard. I trust my wife driving the pontoon, but I have One eye pointing forward as to what she is doing and the other eye trying to drive the Blackjack and recently a 3rd person filming. So on my pontoon boat, everyone now has a job…

[Fluid]

Extensive running at part throttle is hard on the ESC, causing it to get hot quickly. Current BL systems work best at WOT in fast boats, this causes less heating of the ESC. If you want to run at slower speeds, you'd be better off propping down. If you can tolerate the higher ESC temps then okay.


.

[kwiktsi]

I'm confused- you have two 2s2P packs but say they are wired for 4S4P? You are either running them parallel which would be 2S4P or series which would be 4S2P. Am I missing something somewhere?