Fixing the BJ26 Handling Issues

[Adrian]

ESC Toast

Hey Guys, been watching this thread for a while now, thanks Prop Nut. I have had this boat for almost a year now, and blew out my ESC yesterday. I have been running the Turnigy 5 amp 2S lipos on the stock ESC. The only thing I have done differently is change props. About two weeks ago I broke the stock prop and bought a couple of new ones fro the LHS. They are a tiny bit bigger. So my question is would the ESC have blown because I was running lipos for a long time or is it because I had extra load on the motor esc with the bigger prop? Also if I get a bigger amp rated esc will I then just fry my motor? Also any suggestions fr ESC's would be appreciated. I have been checking out this site, and don't know if these products are any good.

http://www.gfreakracing.com/products/stage-2-esc-80-amps

[Diesel6401]

Hey Guys, been watching this thread for a while now, thanks Prop Nut. I have had this boat for almost a year now, and blew out my ESC yesterday. I have been running the Turnigy 5 amp 2S lipos on the stock ESC. The only thing I have done differently is change props. About two weeks ago I broke the stock prop and bought a couple of new ones fro the LHS. They are a tiny bit bigger. So my question is would the ESC have blown because I was running lipos for a long time or is it because I had extra load on the motor esc with the bigger prop? Also if I get a bigger amp rated esc will I then just fry my motor? Also any suggestions fr ESC's would be appreciated. I have been checking out this site, and don't know if these products are any good.
http://www.gfreakracing.com/products...-2-esc-80-amps

Welcome to the forum. Yes if you over-propped, the motor can pull more amps then the esc can handle. As far as the esc you listed please stay away from anything dealing with gfreak they are gfakes. Everything the sell including their hulls are alot cheaper then the price they charge. All they do is put the logo on it. You can read this thread for more info about it http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ighlight=freak. Any of the first 3 on this page will get the job done http://www.kintecracing.com/Electrical.html. The 2nd or 3rd maybe better only because the first one is kinda big and I don't own a BJ so im not sure about the room in the hull. Happy boating. Do you know what prop you purchased?

PS you should always balance/charge every lipo JMO.

[Adrian]

I put a Grimracer L45 x 68mm Lifter PR on it (brass in case that matters), and it made it scoot pretty well. It does torque the boat a little if you gun it from a stop. So with the upgrade on the ESC I don't have to worry about the motor, since the motor is what pulls the current? Thanks for the help

[Diesel6401]

I put a Grimracer L45 x 68mm Lifter PR on it (brass in case that matters), and it made it scoot pretty well. It does torque the boat a little if you gun it from a stop. So with the upgrade on the ESC I don't have to worry about the motor, since the motor is what pulls the current? Thanks for the help

WHOA, complete wrong prop, for 2 reason. First the "L" means its a lifter which is designed for hydros and riggers to lift the transom out of the water. 2nd the dia (45) and pitch (68) are WAY to much for what you have in this boat. Your best bet would be to sell the prop in the swap shop because it just won't work for this boat at all. A Octura 642 would be much better. Even when you get your new esc don't use the prop you have. Once you get rid of the prop and get something smaller you shouldn't have to worry about over-loading the motor. Just always rememeber to time your runs and watch the heat on the motor and esc.

This one is already sharpened and balanced for you:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-x642

[Adrian]

OK... thanks for the advice, I would have thought the LHS guy would have pointed that out since I was buying it to replace the prop from the boat that I had bought from them. What do you mean by time your runs? Like don't run it full throttle for more than a few minutes? I normally run around my boat when I'm out on the lake. Thanks again.

[Diesel6401]

OK... thanks for the advice, I would have thought the LHS guy would have pointed that out since I was buying it to replace the prop from the boat that I had bought from them. What do you mean by time your runs? Like don't run it full throttle for more than a few minutes? I normally run around my boat when I'm out on the lake. Thanks again.

No, always try to run full throttle as much as possible. Think of it like you car, your car runs better on the highway (constant RPM). It's more efficent that way, heat goes down gas mileage goes up as opposed to city driving which is more straining. Your boat is the same way more efficent at WOT and better for it JMO.

Meaning overall time the boat is running. I have a timer on my radio set to 5minutes, when I put the boat in the water I start the timer when it goes off I bring it in, reason being is heat. Unlike cars and planes rc boats pull way more amps which means more heat at less time and drains the batteries quicker

[Adrian]

OK, so then you shut it off for a while and run again? How long or just until everything has cooled down? My batteries last for 20 minutes depending on how hard I push them. Plus I have 3 sets. The last set I bought were Air Thunders which have the overload protecting them from puffing. The Turnigy have done pretty well though, you just have to balance charge them.

[Diesel6401]

OK, so then you shut it off for a while and run again? How long or just until everything has cooled down? My batteries last for 20 minutes depending on how hard I push them. Plus I have 3 sets. The last set I bought were Air Thunders which have the overload protecting them from puffing. The Turnigy have done pretty well though, you just have to balance charge them.

Yup just till everything cools down, and while it's cooling I check voltage per cell on my lipos. I only run zippy and turnigy batts. No set time, depends how hot electrics are and how out it is outside. I normally wait 10ms-15ms or longer and normally switch packs and top off batts on other set. My garage and apartment is 30 yards from the lake where I run at so I have an advantage with that. I use to keep a charger in the house and after I would run 2 sets come in the house chill while they charge a bite to eat or soo. Easy living lol.

[Adrian]

Cool, great info. Thanks, I may just go back with the same stock ESC since I have the programmer for it and I'm pretty sure it was the prop that hosed everything up. Thanks again, I hope others can learn from the $66.00 plus shipping mistake that I made. Also don't trust the LHS guy, they don't know what they are talking about a lot of the time.

[Diesel6401]

Very good. The stock esc is good, turn your timing to high on your card if you havent already done that. Motor will run better. Try out some of the CF props if you don't want to spend the money on a s&b prop or buy one raw and learn to s&b yourself. I would take the prop you have back to the LHS and see what they can do and tell them your story. I am 99.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999% sure that prop caused the failure. Happy boating buddy and once again welcome

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.42

[cnoe88]

I put the stock BJ26 Nitro hardware on and it made a huge difference from stock, plus it was only like $26 on Ebay. I modified it so that ther rudder is behind the prop, still have make it look good though. I noticed on the Fullers hardware that the rudder seems to be deeper than mine. Will lowering the rudder make it handle any better?

[roadrashracing]

Is there anykind fo rear prop/ rudder that will bolt right on with out mods, I don't want to be cutting drilling filling etc.

[tiqueman]

I put the stock BJ26 Nitro hardware on and it made a huge difference from stock, plus it was only like $26 on Ebay. I modified it so that ther rudder is behind the prop, still have make it look good though. I noticed on the Fullers hardware that the rudder seems to be deeper than mine. Will lowering the rudder make it handle any better?

It very well could. I had a different cat w/ all kinds of handling issues. I popped on a different (much deeper) rudder and its now my best handling cat.

Is there anykind fo rear prop/ rudder that will bolt right on with out mods, I don't want to be cutting drilling filling etc.

Im 99.9% sure there is not. The hardware OSE has, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80085, is identical to the HOTR hardwr or the hrdwr that comes on the Genesis, is very easy to fit and you can re-use two of the existing holes. Its tight, but it does work. The other two holes if I remember are not far off... Unfortunately Steve has been out of stock for a while. But, you can find it on ebay.

[roadrashracing]

I boat likes to lean to one side in the water, is there a way to fix this?

[tiqueman]

I boat likes to lean to one side in the water, is there a way to fix this?

sitting still or in motion?