Darin's RECOIL 26 "N2-Offshore" Modiciations

[Darin Jordan]

By the way, Michael, I don't plan on actually racing this anyhow, so all this is mute. Set it up this was more as a test rig to use when Spektrum asks me to field test something (telemetry, RXs, Range tests, etc.)...

I just got all wound up over the Streep speech last night, so I'm in a bit of a defiant, argumentative mood today.

[TheShaughnessy]

all in fun, Its raining in CA and i'm adjusting. I thought I remembered a discussion where we were going to allow self righters so long as they didn't self right during the race. I decided to actually read the rule book to see what was there and that's what I found. The more we talk about it the grayer it seems to become.

[Rafael_Lopez]

Darin, I missed the part where you still have the weighted flywheel. Weighted flywheel + high RPM = Self right effect. Runnin a regular coupler will also help with the boat being a bit erratic and make the steering more precise.

[SlickZERO]

Updates

I realize this is really old. I have many race boats but bought a SonicWake and am hooked on the self righting for playing around and with the grand kids. I picked up a Rocket 26, Valvryn 26, and a Recoil 26.
They all could stand a boost in performance and precision. I replace the servos and linkage for 0 slop.
I was thinking of replacing the speed control and running 4 cell? How critical is the weight of the esc and battery?
Thanks, Bret

[emspjay]

I realize this is really old. I have many race boats but bought a SonicWake and am hooked on the self righting for playing around and with the grand kids. I picked up a Rocket 26, Valvryn 26, and a Recoil 26.
They all could stand a boost in performance and precision. I replace the servos and linkage for 0 slop.
I was thinking of replacing the speed control and running 4 cell? How critical is the weight of the esc and battery?
Thanks, Bret

I was thinking the same thing! I purchased my Recoil a few months before the Sonicwake was released. I just put a OSE Raider ESC in mine and going to try it on 4s in the spring, hopefully I don't burn up the original motor. If the motor does not burn up on 4s I will start playing with props also. I just lightly run mine for run but would like it to be a little faster.

[Idaho LK]

[QUOTE=Darin Jordan;659602]For motors, I selected the TP 3630 in an appropriate KV for N2-Offshore (2S, up to 10,000mAh). I'm retaining the stock weighted coupler, as it'll help the self-righting feature continue to work, hopefully, with the in-runner motor and an appropriately sized set of batteries (the weight on the left side is what helps in this regard.)

Simply bolted the motor to the stock motor mount, attached the flywheel, and reinstalled.

20160326_191843.jpg


That's about it. Bolted everything in place, installed a 2S1P 6600mAh pack, and she's ready to test.

20160330_201748.jpg

Looks like a grease/water seal over the end of the flex shaft and tube just before the motor collet. Is that something you fabricated or did you purchase somewhere? My Recoil 26 did not come with anything here and I get some water coming into the boat.
Larry

[mushroom 19.9]

Hello all! I'm new to the forum.
I had a new all stock Recoil 26 that ran 28 MPH consistently on 3s/50c/4000mah.
I have just upgraded the ESC, motor and prop.
I am now running 4s/50c/2200/3200 batteries with..,
Turnigy 120A marine esc
Dynamite 2300kv outrunner (from ProBoat Riverjet 23)
OSE cnc 40mm 3 blade

The boat is now running 44 mph consistently on smooth water... but running hot (to the touch) on the motor, esc is fine.
Do I need a different/better motor? any recommendations.

[Fluid]

It’s difficult to tell from your description. Outrunners often run hotter than inrunners, there is limited cooling (usually not water-cooled on the motor). But, outrunners usually can tolerate higher temps without damage - we need an actual temperature to see if there is a problem. If the ESC is not hot then your packs are probably okay, but what is a 2200/3200 battery?



.

[Bp9145]

f I'm understanding it correctly, I think mushroom is using two different 4S batteries, one is 2200mah and the other is a 3200mah, both with 50C rating. As fluid mentioned outrunners will run hot and the only water cooling you can provide for outrunners is on the motor mounts. My outrunners after a run is anywhere around 140?F and up. .definitely hot to the touch. Also, that's after getting it out of the water, getting it to your boat stand or station, then taking off the hatch tape before I remove the hatch, surely an easy 5 minutes or so and with me it's much longer as I have a bad back and I'm surely in no hurry to get it on the stand. So there's definitely some time that motor have cooled down. So I can imagine it's much higher than 140?F after a run and yet, I haven't had any problems with my outrunners to this date. I suppose the only way to really get a proper temp on the motor is using a data logger which I never did, even though I have a data logger or on some of the esc itself that I have. It will tell you how hot the motor got. But, if you're esc and batteries aren't hot to the touch, then most likely you're fine. But, it's probably best to get a temp gun to at least get some idea what the temps are on your outrunner motor just to be sure you're on the safe side.. .don't be like me. lol
.[/QUOTE]

[mushroom 19.9]

I have some updates and clarifications

The 2200/3200 battery reference was just to point out that the physical size difference had no effect on top speed.

I got my hands on a digital temp gun and found the following:

motor hit over 170F and battery hit 165F with 4s 3200mah, Turnigy 120A esc, 2300kv outrunner, CNC 40mm 3blade --- 44mph

motor hit 150F and battery hit 140F with 3s 3200mah, 3 blade prop--34 mph

motor hit 150F and battery hit 150F with 4s and 40mm 2 blade prop---39mph

Lastly and oddly, motor hit 160F and battery hit 165F on 3s and 2 blade prop?? 34Mph

Looking to bring down the battery heat, do i need a higher kv motor? maybe an in runner??

[NativePaul]

Use a smaller prop or lower Kv to reduce the load, and/or reduce your runtime. LiPos heat up way more at the end of their discharge, even if your load is OK for the first part of the run it can heat up dangerously if you run it down too low. Check your resting cell voltages after a run they should be over 3.7V/cell.

165f is way too hot, they will take permanent damage over 140f. There is a feedback loop created where overheating it once reduces the capacity and increases the IR, which makes it heat up even more on the next outing causing even more damage, which makes things worse and worse every run until there is a catastrophic failure.

[targetingxmod]

Well...like so much this boat and this thread that it should have a video of mine... after some mods! :P

[mushroom 19.9]

so what mods have you done specifically? have you checked temps on your battery?

[targetingxmod]

I have no temperatures issues even with a Prather 230s prop! But it ain't stock, just the hull...not even the canopy! Well still stock shaft! :P




-Take a peak under the hood...

[targetingxmod]

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