I think it would be engaged by holding the button down for somewhere between 3-5 secs. It's in the manual I believe.
The battery chemistry button is not discussed in either the Zelos manual, nor the 120A ESC manual. Rafael has gone over its function, in this thread I believe, and it is discussed in the manuals of other Proboat models.
From post #117:
Originally posted by Rafael_Lopez
The little black button is to change chemistry. Hold for 3 seconds and green LED on ESC will flash and turn red after 5 seconds. Red led on ESC is for NiMh and will ruin your LiPos......don't touch the little black button....lol.
Same thing just happened to me . Left side ESC. start out green after a pass or two reduced power on that side and red flashing . Called Horizon tech said its the low voltage cut off indication, only I didn't have low voltage and both esc's were set at 3.2v. He ended up sending me a new esc. I put it in but haven't had a chance to try it because the lakes around here are now ice. Check the low voltage setting on the esc that's flashing verify its not set on one of the higher settings ,if not contact Horizon
Reduced power is LVC. If you're hitting LVC after just a few seconds/ minutes, you're LiPos don't have enough discharge and are dumping very quickly. The light also flashes with thermal shutdown, but you have no power at all. We have to remember that just because a LiPo has voltage it does not mean it has amperage.
In order to change the chemistry with the "set" button, you have to knowingly press it for at least 5 seconds. It doesn't just happen by pressing it once. Info regarding the Set button is being added to manuals, but unfortunately there is nothing we can do about printed manuals inside boats in hobby shops, or ones that have been printed and waiting to go in a box.
Reduced power is LVC. If you're hitting LVC after just a few seconds/ minutes, you're LiPos don't have enough discharge and are dumping very quickly. The light also flashes with thermal shutdown, but you have no power at all. We have to remember that just because a LiPo has voltage it does not mean it has amperage.
In order to change the chemistry with the "set" button, you have to knowingly press it for at least 5 seconds. It doesn't just happen by pressing it once. Info regarding the Set button is being added to manuals, but unfortunately there is nothing we can do about printed manuals inside boats in hobby shops, or ones that have been printed and waiting to go in a box.
By reduced power I meant the left side motor would slow down and have minimal power. If my LIPos were the problem wouldn't both esc's be flashing? I was running with 2- 3s reaction 5000mah 70c batteries ( just a few months old). Unless it was thermal shutdown like you say , but it happened after only 1-2 short passes and only on the left side. Checked cooling lines and they were clear. After talking to the Horizon tech support he seemed to think it was a faulty esc on the left side. Got the new esc in but haven't had a chance to try it because we have only ice around here now. I offered to send the old esc back for testing but the tech didn't want it. If there's any interest on your part I would be happy to send it back so it can be tested
Thanks
ok but why one only ESC is going to LVC reducing?
anyway i will try with 2 fresh lipos arriving for xmas...
Originally posted by REDLINE1
By reduced power I meant the left side motor would slow down and have minimal power. If my LIPos were the problem wouldn't both esc's be flashing? I was running with 2- 3s reaction 5000mah 70c batteries ( just a few months old). Unless it was thermal shutdown like you say , but it happened after only 1-2 short passes and only on the left side. Checked cooling lines and they were clear. After talking to the Horizon tech support he seemed to think it was a faulty esc on the left side. Got the new esc in but haven't had a chance to try it because we have only ice around here now. I offered to send the old esc back for testing but the tech didn't want it. If there's any interest on your part I would be happy to send it back so it can be tested
Thanks
It could be that one ESC is slightly more sensitive and detects the lowest cell before the other does. I have not seen this yet personally, and no one who tested reported it either. It's hard to say which ESC would be bad in a scenario like this. Is one kicking on too soon or is the other not kicking in soon enough? Try a combination of the two when you get your replacement ESC.
As I mentioned before, thermal shut down will do just that, shut down; completely. It will not reduce power. If you have a flashing light with reduced power, you are hitting LVC.
Redline1, are you sure those are 70C? Dynamite only makes 20, 30, 50, and 80C packs.
Rafael
Yes my mistake only 50c on my 3s packs. So definitely LVC on mine because of reduced power. I do have low voltage alarms I run with on both batteries Cant remember what the exact setting low voltage alarm is set for but I know its set higher that the 3.2v setting on the Esc's (additional failsafe). Neither alarm sounded when I had this problem. Unfortunately I'll have to wait till spring to mess w/ it unless I go on vacation someplace warn where I can bring the boats with LOL
I had a similar problem to REDLINE1 when I raised my LVC to 3.4V. One ESC would go into LVC after a few WOT passes, on fresh, quality 2x3S batteries. I dropped them both back to 3.2V and haven't seen the problem since. At the time, it definitely wasn't a temperature related issue either due to cooler water temps.
I was at the lake with REDLINE1 and we verified both ESC's were set to 3.2V for LVC. I think we even tried turning them down one step lower since he was running battery checker alarms on both packs. Still no dice.
Rafael
Yes my mistake only 50c on my 3s packs. So definitely LVC on mine because of reduced power. I do have low voltage alarms I run with on both batteries Cant remember what the exact setting low voltage alarm is set for but I know its set higher that the 3.2v setting on the Esc's (additional failsafe). Neither alarm sounded when I had this problem. Unfortunately I'll have to wait till spring to mess w/ it unless I go on vacation someplace warn where I can bring the boats with LOL
Keep in mind that low voltage alarms only work when the voltage you set them at is detected, and the voltage stays there; or below. Batteries will dip in voltage under load and always come back up under rest. Just because your voltage alarm was not beeping when you brought it in does not mean it never went off and possibly stopped when voltage came back up. By that time the ESC could have gone in to limp mode after detecting LVC. LVC does not reset in the ESC until you power cycle the it, unlike a LVC alarm which can stop beeping if the voltage rises above your preset threshold. I run LVC alarms in my airplanes and quads and have experienced them going on and off under load until they finally reach their preset limit.
I am not trying to discredit anything you experienced, I am just pointing out a few more variables that need to be considered. If you get your hands on a program card, see where the LVC on that ESC was set. Could be that maybe they messed something up at the factory and programmed it higher. Cant remember if you already had the ESC replaced, but if you didn't, you're the original purchaser, and the boat is fairly new, call Product Support and get it replaced.
Keep in mind that low voltage alarms only work when the voltage you set them at is detected, and the voltage stays there; or below. Batteries will dip in voltage under load and always come back up under rest. Just because your voltage alarm was not beeping when you brought it in does not mean it never went off and possibly stopped when voltage came back up. By that time the ESC could have gone in to limp mode after detecting LVC. LVC does not reset in the ESC until you power cycle the it, unlike a LVC alarm which can stop beeping if the voltage rises above your preset threshold. I run LVC alarms in my airplanes and quads and have experienced them going on and off under load until they finally reach their preset limit.
I am not trying to discredit anything you experienced, I am just pointing out a few more variables that need to be considered. If you get your hands on a program card, see where the LVC on that ESC was set. Could be that maybe they messed something up at the factory and programmed it higher. Cant remember if you already had the ESC replaced, but if you didn't, you're the original purchaser, and the boat is fairly new, call Product Support and get it replaced.
Rafael,
Ok understand thanks for the input. Yes they did send me a new ESC already and yes I checked the LVC on the ESC when I was having the problem both were at 3.2v
Thanks again
Has any1 here removed the teflon lines from the stock brass tubes and run it like that?I would like an advise if the stock brass is to big to run it with out the teflon.
Thnx in advance
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