Any zelos owners out there that can check the stock prop diameter with a micrometer in mm?
NEW Pro Boat "ZELOS 36" Twin Cat
Collapse
X
-
Comment
-
Comment
-
What batteries are they?
What's the mah and c rating? 5000mah and 50c minimum is highly recommended, for quality packs. (I don't consider nano techs quality packs)
What's the speed of the boat? That will give an idea of how wet it's running.
What cell count?
How long are your battery wires?
Please try to answer all the questions, it's important so we can point you in the right direction32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) wasComment
-
While I currently don't plan to change props on my Zelos, I have no way of balancing a prop, I tried sharpening my stock Voracity prop but stopped before I did more harm than good. Right now there is a X452 prop on it as arrover had in one of his videos. I read somewhere on here that props are available that are already balanced and sharpened for around $55.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
-
I ran a 43mm CNC prop when I built my single 32" cat and it had a lot of prop walk/porpoising and just drove kinda funky, travis said try an m445 and it drives perfect now if that helps any but obviously a twin is going to react differently! dasboata can prep a nice pair of props for you, someone with more prop knowledge than me will likely chime in just figured I'd share my experience!Comment
-
Zelos meets Rock!
I guess the old saying "patience is a virtue" really holds water. I was so excited to throw the Zelos on the water. It was all prepped for its maiden voyage, seas were calmer than anything that I have ran in, while not anything like you guys run in. So I have my brother piloting the Phantom 3 Pro, I do a couple slow runs in a circle, increased it mildly but never WOT. On its last run, while heading in the direction back to shore, if I had to guess I was doing somewhere between 30-35mph, the Zelos drifted to its left more than I would like and slammed into a rock, HARD! My heart melted at that sound. My brother caught the whole thing on the drone. Upon inspection, I cringed but held it together and told myself this can be repaired. For now I have pictures but the video might be a while for me to upload. For the tight turns I needed to take, I should of adjusted my rudder rate about 3/4. All captain error here, Zelos ran well in mild to favorable conditions. It will return after repairs. On a side note, to save myself a entire day of disappointment, I ran home to get the Voracity with the new Octura x452 and my oh my does that prop wake up that boat. Anyhow, I am taking this much better than I thought. Lesson learned, the Zelos and the Voracity are two different beast and must be treated as such, both have different style of slicing and dicing the waters. Enough of my moaning, pictures below. (screenshots from Drone Footage)
Final turn before crash:
IMG_2401.jpg
What I saw before wreck
IMG_2402.jpg
Wreck
IMG_2400.jpg
Aftermath
IMG_2389.jpg
IMG_2391.jpgProboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
-
IMG_2393.JPG
Ended the day with this! Note here the waters got rougher when the Voracity was out, I assure you this was not the conditions the Zelos was in. We took maybe 1hr-1.5hrs before we took out the Voracity!
IMG_2397.jpg
IMG_2394.jpg
IMG_2395.jpgLast edited by Keagan-Z06; 03-29-2016, 01:35 PM.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
-
Oh man.... So sorry to see that Keagan. But like you say, it can be repaired. The Zelos and Voracity do handle way differently.
CNC props work fine although I prefer copper/beryllium props because they are tougher. Where I run there can be small floating debris. An aluminum CNC prop is more likely to get dented or nicked in that situation. The leading edges on the CNC props are fairly thin and sharp and you can flex the leading edges with your fingers. If you run in clean water, you may never have a problem. The CNC and copper/beryllium props are roughly the same cost and if you sharpen and balance yourself, you end up with a superior prop (in my opinion). If you're talking CNC vs a prefinished Octura/ABC/etc then the CNC prop will be around half price.Comment
-
Oh man.... So sorry to see that Keagan. But like you say, it can be repaired. The Zelos and Voracity do handle way differently.
CNC props work fine although I prefer copper/beryllium props because they are tougher. Where I run there can be small floating debris. An aluminum CNC prop is more likely to get dented or nicked in that situation. The leading edges on the CNC props are fairly thin and sharp and you can flex the leading edges with your fingers. If you run in clean water, you may never have a problem. The CNC and copper/beryllium props are roughly the same cost and if you sharpen and balance yourself, you end up with a superior prop (in my opinion). If you're talking CNC vs a prefinished Octura/ABC/etc then the CNC prop will be around half price.Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, ZondaComment
-
I would not run the x452 again (or any Octura/ABC props) until you get it balanced. They are pretty much raw castings when you buy them and they aren't meant to be run that way. You will need a balancer to do it.Comment
-
Keagan, sorry to see what happened to your boat. It looks to me that as hard as the impact was, the thickness of the hull prevented a water breach, right?
If you want to fix it, it's really easy.
1-Knock off all the fiber glass that's hanging off.
2-Seal all the damaged glass with thin CA glue.
3-Scuff the paint around the damaged area with 400 grit sandpaper.
4-Bondo makes a product called "Bondo Hair" or "Bondo Glass"which is Bondo fiberglass resin mixed with fiberglass shavings.
5-Mix harder in to a small portion and apply as best you can to shape the hull back to it's original shape.
6-I add more Bondo than what is necessary and once dry I start shaping with a rough wood file.
7-Once you have the basic shape with the rough file, then you start sanding.
8-Once sanded smooth I use light weight body filler putty to fill in any pin holes.
If it were any other boat, I'd say this stuff may be too heavy, but given the weight of the Zelos 36, I feel this product will do the job well.
I've repaired a Zelos 48 that my old Director ran in to a pole this way and a Rockstar 48 that I ran in to a buoy, as well. To finish it off, I'd paint the tips of the sponsons flat black and you'll never know it was ran up on shore.Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751Comment
Comment