GrimRacer 40x52/3

[skibo2]

Wow I'm wondering myself it the marine grease I got from walmart is slowing me down also. I read the back of it

brad65, I have never used the Wal Mart brand of Marine grease you mention but I have used, for about two months, their regular wheel bearing automotive grease on one of my boats as a trial and had no problems with it. On the prop issue my opinion is the CF 48 is too much prop for the stock SV. I have run an Octura X-447, which is a 47 mm prop and it made a lot of speed but the temps of everything were way to high, over 140 degrees.

[Brushless55]

Can you make the CF48 work on a stock SV ?

[skibo2]

Can you make the CF48 work on a stock SV ?

It would work but you would really have to watch the temps. With the X-447 I was getting temps of 140 on ESC, Motor and Batteries. This was from a run time of about 3 minutes. I consider myself lucky I did not damage anything;. I dropped back to a CF 45 and temps held in the 110 to 120 range. The boat really handled, for racing, the best with a CF 42 which held temps below 110 and the boat was a lot more stable. As any racer will tell you, you have to finish the race to win.

[brad65]

Very cool infor, I had some fun to with the grimracer 40/52 /3 today. It does get on plane faster than stock but speed is fair. After pounding on her for 5 mins with 4000mah maxamps 2 2s's temps were 86 degrees esc, 115 motor, 125 batterys. I changed the cooling system to a one tube pickup on the left lower transon and opened up all fittings. I think it helped alot, just worried about going to these cf props. What's the max these components can take with these larger props?

[engineerjoe]

I had a GR 40x52x3 and it was great. I had probably 8 hours of sharpening, thinning and balancing into that prop and it was very fast. It doesn't get on plane very well but I don't really care about that anyway.

unfortunately I never got to compare it to my recently purchased x440/3 because my propshaft broke a couple weeks ago, sacrificing the GR prop to the lake gods.

The CF props are awesome for test and tuning. I know my boat flys with the Cf 45mm 3 blade (also gets warm quickly so watch temps)

[bustitup]

Imy propshaft broke a couple weeks ago, sacrificing the GR prop to the lake

do you know why the propshaft broke?.....the reason I ask is....I read somewhere yesturday that your supposed to have 1/4" between the backside of the drive dog to the front side of the strut because when in motion your flexshaft shrinks....I dont know how true this is but did you have this distance of 1/4"?

[Brushless55]

I had a GR 40x52x3 and it was great. I had probably 8 hours of sharpening, thinning and balancing into that prop and it was very fast. It doesn't get on plane very well but I don't really care about that anyway.

unfortunately I never got to compare it to my recently purchased x440/3 because my propshaft broke a couple weeks ago, sacrificing the GR prop to the lake gods.

The CF props are awesome for test and tuning. I know my boat flys with the Cf 45mm 3 blade (also gets warm quickly so watch temps)

CF 45/3 ?
Where did you pick that prop up?

[skibo2]

Very cool infor, I had some fun to with the grimracer 40/52 /3 today. It does get on plane faster than stock but speed is fair. After pounding on her for 5 mins with 4000mah maxamps 2 2s's temps were 86 degrees esc, 115 motor, 125 batterys. I changed the cooling system to a one tube pickup on the left lower transon and opened up all fittings. I think it helped alot, just worried about going to these cf props. What's the max these components can take with these larger props?

Some say the max temps should not exceed 150 for ESC, Motor or battery, however, I personally feel that 150 is pushing the limit and I prefer not to exceed 140 degrees. I have been in the sport for over 10 years and have burned up many motors and ESC's from overpropping and not paying attention to temps. It takes me a while to learn my lessons, LOL.

Bustitup, Yes it is true you should leave a space between the strut and drive dog. I like to leave between 3/16 and 1/4 inch.

[bwells]

what about the quarter inch play on the shaft, I can see it possibly shrinking but a quarter inch? this is important info that needs to be passed along

[bustitup]

what about the quarter inch play on the shaft, I can see it possibly shrinking but a quarter inch? this is important info that needs to be passed along

you would think this would be better known

[bwells]

yeah, where is everybody? We need an answer on this one as I leave zero play!

[engineerjoe]

sorry, it was a 47mm 3 blade not a 45mm

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=xpo-3bld-316

YES!!! you need to leave ~1/4" gap for the flex shaft to compress under load. on my gas boat it is suggested to leave almost 1/2" gap The flex shaft will compress alot especially on shock loads (jumping, etc.)

I think my propshaft broke because I dropped my boat and it damaged it. I didn't notice till it was too late.

[785boats]

I don't think you need to leave such a big gap.
Most flex cables these days are double wound (left & right) so they don't tend to 'wind up' as much as they used to. Also the shorter the length of cable the less it can wind up.
I only leave about 1/8" & I reckon that's too much.
I test mine in the following way.
Hold the hex flex with a spanner, twist the prop backwards while applying forward pressure to simulate the load. Apply enough twist to the point that you think something will break if you apply anymore, and see how much the gap closes between the strut & the dog. You might be surprised. I then double the distance for security. No problems yet.
Higher powered setups than mine may need more, I don't know.
Paul.

[skibo2]

Paul, you are correct in that with a low power motor 1/4 inch would probably be overkill. I am currently running an 8XL and I like 3/16 inch. The rule of thumb that has been around for years is the gap should be the thickness of your flex shaft. My shaft is 3/16 thus that is my gap and I have only broken one shaft in 10 years.