If the boat is gonna sit overnight after a run you really should pull the shaft, clean, dry and regrease before running again.
After a race day, I bring all the boats home, remove all the shafts, and leave the boats open to completely dry. I store all my drive shafts in a metal spackle trough and spray down with Corrosion-X. They all sit in a Corrosion-X bath in the bottom of the trough until I need to install them again. Then I just wipe off, add grease, and install for a days worth of racing. I still have the stock shaft in my SV after racing it for 3 seasons.
Got this tip from "The Snowman" when I was just starting out...I've never had a shaft fail, never needed to replace a shaft. Thanks Brian!
Sorry I'm late to chime in...
The temps are fine if you're running for 10 min.
I highly advise opening the hole on the rudder inlet slightly.
I did that and added larger ID tubing throughout and I don't see anything over 115 after a race heat (approx. 5 min.).
Sorry I'm late to chime in...
The temps are fine if you're running for 10 min.
I highly advise opening the hole on the rudder inlet slightly.
I did that and added larger ID tubing throughout and I don't see anything over 115 after a race heat (approx. 5 min.).
I have all ready done eveything you mentioned . m going to the lake latter i'll bring a stop watch if if remember . So i can acctually time how long i run . I put the stock prop back on. I'll do my noraml run & see if the temps are lower. I had enough speed with the stock prop before. Thank you for the tips.
I ran my boat today with the stock prop.The temp went back to mormal 95 on the water jacket & 115-120 on the open end bell . the speed felt the same . But it took a tad longer to get on plane.
If you do want to get another prop - our club runs the Grimracer 42x55 prop in our spec-SV class. It gets the boat on plane much better than the stock prop and gives a bit more speed as well.
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