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  • Brushless55
    Creator
    • Oct 2008
    • 9488

    #91
    Well every thing sounds ok?
    your temps are not to high as to damage anything..
    have you greased the shaft?
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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    • rchippie
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2010
      • 567

      #92
      Originally posted by Brushless55
      Well every thing sounds ok?
      your temps are not to high as to damage anything..
      have you greased the shaft?
      Yes i have done it once . But i need to do it again as i have ran the boat at least 4 times since i greased it .

      Comment

      • Ctonez
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2007
        • 404

        #93
        If the boat is gonna sit overnight after a run you really should pull the shaft, clean, dry and regrease before running again.
        After a race day, I bring all the boats home, remove all the shafts, and leave the boats open to completely dry. I store all my drive shafts in a metal spackle trough and spray down with Corrosion-X. They all sit in a Corrosion-X bath in the bottom of the trough until I need to install them again. Then I just wipe off, add grease, and install for a days worth of racing. I still have the stock shaft in my SV after racing it for 3 seasons.
        Got this tip from "The Snowman" when I was just starting out...I've never had a shaft fail, never needed to replace a shaft. Thanks Brian!

        Comment

        • Ctonez
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 404

          #94
          Sorry I'm late to chime in...
          The temps are fine if you're running for 10 min.
          I highly advise opening the hole on the rudder inlet slightly.
          I did that and added larger ID tubing throughout and I don't see anything over 115 after a race heat (approx. 5 min.).

          Comment

          • rchippie
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 567

            #95
            Originally posted by Ctonez
            Sorry I'm late to chime in...
            The temps are fine if you're running for 10 min.
            I highly advise opening the hole on the rudder inlet slightly.
            I did that and added larger ID tubing throughout and I don't see anything over 115 after a race heat (approx. 5 min.).

            I have all ready done eveything you mentioned . m going to the lake latter i'll bring a stop watch if if remember . So i can acctually time how long i run . I put the stock prop back on. I'll do my noraml run & see if the temps are lower. I had enough speed with the stock prop before. Thank you for the tips.

            Comment

            • rchippie
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 567

              #96
              I ran my boat today with the stock prop.The temp went back to mormal 95 on the water jacket & 115-120 on the open end bell . the speed felt the same . But it took a tad longer to get on plane.

              Comment

              • Ctonez
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2007
                • 404

                #97
                If you do want to get another prop - our club runs the Grimracer 42x55 prop in our spec-SV class. It gets the boat on plane much better than the stock prop and gives a bit more speed as well.

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