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First post-Water flows into my hull from I believe arround the edges of the stuffing tube. I took off the strut and no sealer is visible-and I don't see any on the inside either. I was going to put some epoxy arround the tube but then the strut would not be flush against the hull. I don,t know if it would help to seal the inside because I can only seal the wooden plate and maybe the water is flowing in between the fiberglass and the wood transom backing plate. I sent my fist sv back because of a crack in the fiberglass and I waited over two months for this replacement. Aquacraft is no help, they want me to send it back. Also, I feel stupid asking this but how is the strut ajustible when the prop shaft is ridged. Thanks for any help.
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if you take some silicone and put around the tube on the inside of the transom, it will stop the leaks there, thats what i found anyway.restoring the collection -
My favorite SV27 is my white one, it has a crack down the side. Its definatly not a structural propblem, it comes from where the top meets the bottom and the paint gave out and cracked. Its still my favorite. I might as well sell my other boat, I grab my white one every time.
The leaking SV. I would say that is normal with a out of the box boat. You have to take everything off. hardwere, motor, radio box, everything. Zpoxy all the wood, keep care around your nut and bolt holes. After all the wood is Zpoxyed. Grab a new tube a 100% silicone apply a small amount to the hardwere that faces the boat and a small amount for the bolt to sit in and tighten her up. Around the drive tube a small bead then add a small beat on the aluminum outer sleave. The nuts and bolts that dont touch the hull I use BLUE lock tight. My boats never leak and nuts and bolts dont get loose. works for me. G/L JoeyComment
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Do all the things ice329 suggested, then if you move the antenna mount somewhere outside the hatch, seal the antenna hole in the hatch cover and tape the cover when you run the boat it will be 100% water tight. We have 2 SuperVees and when the flex shaft is freshly greased we get no water in the hull at all after a run.:)
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Fast guy got it. I am doing one right now from soup to nuts. Building another ICE ROCKET. Here is the first picture. First thing I take out is the cowl lock. I tape the top everytime and no need for the weak link.
Last edited by ice329; 07-07-2007, 11:51 AM.Comment
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Zpoxy complete.
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Hardware siliconed installed / adj. Drive and balced/polished X642 prop on
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Radio box insatalled / Custom leakproof antena installed
Last edited by ice329; 08-23-2007, 06:06 PM.Comment
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Thanks for the advice-I am taking everything out of the boat and will seal everything.Comment
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Looks good ice. I see you have a Reef Racer too.Comment
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Bought the reef R for the kids, but it really isnt very good to be honest. Its good for a pool. The radio only reaches maybe 60 feet. and its slow. I even ran my rc plane lipo's in it.
I may run into a snag with the build. I need a OSE water jacket and steve is out. Anyone got a new one to sell me?Comment
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Continuing with the boat. It wont be a IR, just a nice boat. Floatation is all installed. Water cooling is back to gether, she is almost ready for her water test run.
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We have 3 Reef Racer 2s and I thought they went good for what we paid for them. My kids run them a hundred yards out into the lake and they still respond to the radio. Tape the hatch and they are a riot in big waves.:D The big problem with them is they don't make any rooster tail from the prop so it seems like nothing is happening.
Nice job on the SuperVee.
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She is ready for her test run. If you dont use good batterys dont use foam for hold downs, they get to hot and it melts the foam. Built IB3600 packs are a safe bet. Radio, and electronics all working perfectly, motor and drive, sing.
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Looks undressed without the decals.Comment
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