well, i looked at the other brushless i have and its the exact motor you have on yours. I might have to pick up a 3s compatible ESC cuz mine is 4s.
can you tell me what prop your using?
Its 27 degree's F out here, ponds are freezing up i'll have to find a flowing river to test this thing when i get to making some trim tabs and turn fins. I will be buying a rudder for $15'sh, you recommend like 75mm or 90mm? how far back from transom?
I am using a x440/3 prop and a 120a esc with added caps, It also ran good with a s215 prop.
Off the transom to the back of rudder is 4",
And from the center of flex shaft to the rudder bracket its 1 9/16,
Rudder size is top were water nipple gos in,To bottom 3 3/4".
CAUTION: lipos suffer non-benign failure modes that can lead to high heat (from run-away current)...hot enough to set the battery and/or items in its vicinity afire....just in case you have not already heard. I've had lipos swell up spontaneously, from fool-hardy attempts to trickle-charge a pack back to life, and they have not gotten fire-hot that I ever noticed. But, lipos can catch fire, and many a hobbyist's house has burned down as a result (google for it).
Inefficiences/burst current, not included above, drive consumption up and production down...so I am surprised those lipos ran that long, even accounting for over-discharge.
** Corrected for Make-A-Wake's observation that you are running 4S.
Last edited by JoeOvercoat; 12-27-2011, 08:40 AM.
Reason: Corrected for 4S
If im following correctly he is using 2 x 2s 5000 mah batts for 4s 5000mah total. If so and he got 12 minutes, thats why his cells swelled up.................12 minutes is a freakin eternity running an FE boat, the 47" mono in my signature gets 4 minutes on 10,000 mah to give you an idea of how short runs can be........ A low voltage cutoff is needed with Lipos to stop an over-discharge situation which sounds like occurred with amino............
that might be correct, not sure if thats what the charger means that it only gave it that much mah. on 2x2s 5000mah ...i only got about 12 minutes of run time in this last video. ... doesn't seem right does it?
another note, i took out the spartan too and one battery swelled up like a damn sausage. turnigy said take a pic, we need to see volts of each cell and send the email. wtf?
very informative guys. I'm new to LiPo's honestly. a lipo safety switch i should definately get, especially for that expensive spartan.
IF i recall correctly the spartan has built in voltage cut off?? i'm pretty sure i read in the manual that at certain voltage the esc will only allow 25% or maybe more just enough to get back to shore. I might be wrong on this???
In this RIO EP Im considering going down to a 380/ 28mm size motor instead of the 540 size/36mm but that opens the motor mount issues. The main reason why i wanted to stick with 36-5+ size motors is direct fit.
If i get a 70 birdie ESC from hobby wing what would be a good motor and prop, feels like starting from ground zero!!!
I will be replicating Lenny's set up since i already have that exact motor, i'll place an order for that 70amp ESC and run 3s with x438 or x440 like lenny's. A 75mm rudder with water pickup is on its way now, meanwhile i'll be working on those trim tabs and turn fins.
Not sure what to do at this point. the 3656 2600kv i might throw in my SV27 or even this this 3660 2200kv.
A 28mm diameter motor can be installed by reaming/grinding the mounting holes each inward to fit the smaller mounting radius. You can stay with a 3650 if you go with something like this motor which is 1500kv, can still be run on 4s and be a bit tamer, and has a 3.175mm shaft which means you would have to get a different coupler.
Ratings are often deceptive, if you run it with a tame prop it shouldnt pull more than around 40a which on 4s puts you in the 550-600w range. The kv is alot more forgiving than the 2200.
Now I have a question for you...
Where the heck do you put the battery(s)?? Considering that you have the ESC mounted to the battery tray... Just curious...
And Barnacles suck - they slow your boat down.
I actually put the battery on the battery tray under the ESC. I tried to balance out the boat, but my setup is not set in stone yet. until i get the right prop, motor, esc and trim tabs and rudder......basically everything!!
My question is how do i remove the radio box without damaging the hull?? I need to setup the new rudder and drill a hole for a single aftermarket rudder.
You will need to destroy the box,
Very carefully peace by peace and the bottom parts that are glued will stay their.
Just take your time and make flat as possible,
If you try to take the glued parts left out, You will rip the hull apart.
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