Revolt 30 setup

[Banjo Dick]

Hi, I just bought a Revolt 30 and I'm new to FE boating. Since I don't know anybody in my new neighborhood, I'm relying on the good info in this forum for initial setup advice. I'll do the mods I've seen here before I drop it into the bay in the spring. The (saltwater) bay off Bellport, NY can get choppy so I'm more for stability than ultimate top speed. But I think I'll bring along an inflatable dingy to row out; just in case.
I guess I should buy all the Revolt upgrade parts from OSE and spare parts now, since the boat is discontinued?

[tlandauer]

Hi, I just bought a Revolt 30 and I'm new to FE boating. Since I don't know anybody in my new neighborhood, I'm relying on the good info in this forum for initial setup advice. I'll do the mods I've seen here before I drop it into the bay in the spring. The (saltwater) bay off Bellport, NY can get choppy so I'm more for stability than ultimate top speed. But I think I'll bring along an inflatable dingy to row out; just in case.
I guess I should buy all the Revolt upgrade parts from OSE and spare parts now, since the boat is discontinued?

We were supposed to meet up at Legg Lake, you moved to East Coast, lol...
best Wishes for your new home.
The first thing is to get an after market flex-cable for your boat, if there ever was a weak link in the Revolt, I think that was it.
I will also get an Octura collet, as I remember the stock AquaCraft black ones aren't that great.
Running in salt water means you need to prepare to wash off your boat thoroughly after each run. That means besides the obvious, bring yourself a water pump to pump fresh water thru the cooling line starting from your rudder pick up. I use these nitro/gas crank pump , http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMA93&P=7
Bring a big jar of fresh water to your site, as soon as you have done your boating, pump water thru the cooling lines. Also don't forget to pack WD-40, spray them at all the hardware, some even do that in their cooling lines, that means you spray into the tubes until you see it coming out from the exit---here is the thing: I am mindful that the chemicals in the WD-40 will , in the long run, weaken the ''O" rings in your motor cooling jacket, so use with care. Needless to say, you need to take down your flex-cable as well, corrosion starts the moment your boat leaves the water.
The REVOLT is coming back, so if you visit www.towerhobbies.com, you will see it in the Spring.

[Banjo Dick]

We were supposed to meet up at Legg Lake, you moved to East Coast, lol...
best Wishes for your new home.
The first thing is to get an after market flex-cable for your boat, if there ever was a weak link in the Revolt, I think that was it.
I will also get an Octura collet, as I remember the stock AquaCraft black ones aren't that great.
Running in salt water means you need to prepare to wash off your boat thoroughly after each run. That means besides the obvious, bring yourself a water pump to pump fresh water thru the cooling line starting from your rudder pick up. I use these nitro/gas crank pump , http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMA93&P=7
Bring a big jar of fresh water to your site, as soon as you have done your boating, pump water thru the cooling lines. Also don't forget to pack WD-40, spray them at all the hardware, some even do that in their cooling lines, that means you spray into the tubes until you see it coming out from the exit---here is the thing: I am mindful that the chemicals in the WD-40 will , in the long run, weaken the ''O" rings in your motor cooling jacket, so use with care. Needless to say, you need to take down your flex-cable as well, corrosion starts the moment your boat leaves the water.
The REVOLT is coming back, so if you visit www.towerhobbies.com, you will see it in the Spring.

Thank you Tim!

Yeah, I wanted to move closer to Carnegie Hall just in case they call! I visited Legg a couple times, must've missed you I guess. I'll have to join NAMBA here. Sorry I needed to move away from $o. Cal, until the statute of limitations expires (just kidding?) Village of Bellport, NY has only one traffic light, 2,000 people, and we have to take turns being the Village Idiot...

Ordered a SS collet, upgrade flex-cable, grease, SS prop, and other spare parts for the new Revolt 30. Watched a youtube video on clearing out the salt water; I'll probably blow many mouthfuls of drinking water, then flush thoroughly at home. Maybe I'll be able to run the 1/10 scale Shovelnose Hydro in some local calm pond, but the Great South Bay is so much more convenient and I figured a deep V mono would be necessary for the perpetual chop. I read somewhere that WD40 was originally made from fish oil, but it's great for displacing water so I'll buy stock in the company.

California banjo gig in May, I hope to thaw out for a couple weeks!

[Mike Caruso]

Hi Guys,
Sorry I just saw this today whatever I can help you with i will.
Mike

[BHChieftain]

I have a setup/running guide for the Revolt which includes how to set up the boat plus upgrade options (most available here at OSE), props, and a bunch of useful links, if you would like a copy send me an email at [email protected].

Chief

[Banjo Dick]

I have a setup/running guide for the Revolt which includes how to set up the boat plus upgrade options (most available here at OSE), props, and a bunch of useful links, if you would like a copy send me an email at [email protected].

Chief

Email sent! Thank you very much. I just received the (second hand - but never run) Revolt today and already have an order in for parts I mentioned 3 posts up. I'll be running stock motor on 4S and could use some help choosing the best prop; I'm more interested in getting long, stabile runs rather than ultimate top speed. But that's only what I'm thinking today...

BTW, should I consider any reinforcing of the hull and lowering the CG? I have months to set up this thing before it warms up around here.

[Banjo Dick]

Question:

I will be running in perpetual chop in the Great South Bay off Bellport, NY. When I see a lot of the fast Revolts on YouTube, they all seem to cavitate for a second or two before hooking up and I'm thinking I would like a prop that hooks up right away after bouncing in the chop, with minimal cavitation and I'm not that concerned (today) with ultimate top speed, just long reliable fun runs. Should I order some prop (?) and have an expert put some cupping into it?

You guys know a heckova lot more than I do!

[BHChieftain]

Question:

I will be running in perpetual chop in the Great South Bay off Bellport, NY. When I see a lot of the fast Revolts on YouTube, they all seem to cavitate for a second or two before hooking up and I'm thinking I would like a prop that hooks up right away after bouncing in the chop, with minimal cavitation and I'm not that concerned (today) with ultimate top speed, just long reliable fun runs. Should I order some prop (?) and have an expert put some cupping into it?

You guys know a heckova lot more than I do!

This is one of the reasons I like to run lower RPMs-- very high RPM setups can cavitate (maybe those videos are showing revolts on the stock motor on 6s??). The stock 42x55 is actually a pretty good prop on the stock setup provided it is sharpened and balanced.

If you are looking for some punch vs. top end speed, I'd think about the x642 prop. I see a lot of folks run the m445, and although that has less total pitch than the x642, the detounged m445 runs faster at the top end (motor hits max rpms better on that one), but has less punch at the low end. The x642 will be slower at top end but should punch better. Note I've seen a few ESC fires with folks running m445 on the AQ60 ESC, so you might want to think about upgrading that if you are going to prop up. That being said, I personally run an x642 with the stock ESC in a hydro (2030kv motor 4S), and my setup is running ok-- but I'm only running 3.5min at a time racing.

Chief