Revolt Cooling mods thread. Let's see'em.
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This is very interesting as I have not encountered any problems using this esc with different batteries. I ran this esc in a sv-27, UL-1, Top speed 3 and a VS-1. I never run my boats down to the lvc. When it stutters I bring the boat in plain and simple. I have never had one of these esc shut me off either. Once again when it gives you the stutter bump it is time to bring her in. The manual states it stutters at 12v and cuts off at 2.9v per cell or 11.6v. So if the esc cuts off it did its job. The driver should have enough common sense to bring the boat back instead of finishing whatever they were trying to accomplish. Why would you continue to keep running your boat after the warning? You have enough leeway to make it to shore before the cut off. If you operate the boat and electronics within its parameters you will never have an issue with stressing your set up. Just wondering why everybody trashes the esc but nobody gives any measurements or readings. They just go off of what was printed. Like I said, myself and my friends run these esc's for 4s set ups and never have the issues that others complain about. Has this esc failed you and a set of batteries?Comment
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Oh, and to correct myself from post #16, I meant, "This is why guys using the stock ESC time their runs rather than rely on the stutter."Revolt 30, Octura M545, Spectrum DX3S tx, ORX rx, Shaft from Kinetic...not on the water yet.Comment
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Exactly my point. I feel those values are too low. Many would consider 12.4 to be the proper warning and 12V to be the shut-off. At least this is the thought of most of the car guys I know, and cars are less demanding. What the setting should be is surely debatable, but I have the low voltage warning on my cars set at 3.1V/cell. Personal preference, I guess. The factory ESC has never failed me as I have never used it. It's still new/unused and will be up for sale soon.
Oh, and to correct myself from post #16, I meant, "This is why guys using the stock ESC time their runs rather than rely on the stutter."Comment
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off topic but these are the caps I use.
DSCN2718.jpgDSCN2719.jpgDSCN2720.jpg
I posted here since the site refuses to let me upload and send them in a pm....Comment
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I made a double prop wash cooling setup on my revolt. One for motor and sc and other for battery tray. I felt batteries were getting to hot for my comfort so I'm beta testing my design.Brushless E-Maxx, Minimono, Revolt 30 with dual pick ups and water cooled battery tray, HB Ve8, Hpi Mini recon, AE rc18mt, Tamiya Rally with custom made carbon fiber chassis.Comment
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I'm happy to say that I just beta tested my cooling mod today. I know the water up here in MN is quite cold still but temps were good. Ran for 6 min pushing it quite hard, stock revolt with kintec shaft and 5.5mm bullets and stock prop (bent lifter prop day before). Batts were 7600 40c 2s. Motor was 86, esc was 64 and Batts were 78 and 80. Can't wait to see how it does in the summer with the warmer waterBrushless E-Maxx, Minimono, Revolt 30 with dual pick ups and water cooled battery tray, HB Ve8, Hpi Mini recon, AE rc18mt, Tamiya Rally with custom made carbon fiber chassis.Comment
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Does anyone have any pix of DUAL REAR-EXIT cooling line fittings mounted in the transom of the Revolt? I'm wanting to setup dual cooling lines, and have everything ENTER & EXIT in the rear...The factory exit and entrance holes for cooling lines are grossly out of line with each other (location top2bottom from top of transom)....kinda bugs me.Comment
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