Now, here is the hot setup.....a Nue 1515/1Y/S, Castle Creations 240LV, 4S, dual water pickup rudder, JW .078" wire drive..Grim 40x57/3, under-propped again (having a real hard time understanding and choosing the right prop) Cavatates at first, then when she hooks up, look out, starts dancing and chine walking...i'm going to air dam her today and eagle tree the speed...BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....
Feigao 540XL in UL-1 !
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now this is an even better setup: Nue 1515/1Y/S, 4S, CC 240LV, JW .078" wire drive (I'll never go flex again), custom dual water pickup, under-propped again with a 40x57/3 Grim (still don't know what to use for a prop)..I think I hit a home-run with the dual water rudder design, when i run this hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh, the motor and ESC aren't even warm to the touch..Today I will be installing an air dam and the eagle tree to check speedsComment
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If that is a Etti 2mm coupler it could slip. Did oyu get that from me? It looks differnt than an Etti. . A person can rough the wire up a bit to help but let me know if it does and I will get you something else.
Just check the wire and see if it is shiney after running some laps and that will tell you. You really do not need the twin thrust bearing on that. It could be causing some drag for you at the strut.
Nice friggin ride buddy!Comment
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BTW, the dual water pickups are amazing,,after running hard and soft for full duration of 5400mAh batteries, the esc and motor aren't even warm to the touch...i think i hit a home run on the rudder setup.....
BTW, the thrust bearing on the strut is a bad idea. First, because it is larger than the strut it will cause a lot of drag and prop cavitation. Even worse, when the flex cable winds up it shortens, putting the whole cable in a bind adding drag and eventually pulling the strut out of alignment. Take the thrust at the motor mount and be certain to leave a gap equal to the cable diameter between the drive dog and the strut.
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what are you going to try next, and have you put a gps in it to see how fast?Last edited by Brushless55; 03-21-2010, 01:33 AM..NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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You had a AoA build thread a little while back to help reduce the chine walk. I did the battery splaying mod that properchopper mentioned to my ul. It really reduced the chine walk, but speed really suffered. I am going to have to figure something out with the 7xl because the chine walk is only going to get worse.Comment
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He is running a wire drive. Contraction is virtually nothing. I still leave 1/8" in mine at the strut.Comment
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I set the strut depth to 1 1/16" and strut angle is neutral as possible. Too much? I will be using 2x 2s and 2x 4s lipo's with a 40x57/3. I'm thinking I may need to come down a little bit for the lighter 2s and maybe more depth for the 4s's, is this proper thinking?Attached FilesComment
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.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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Try the new ABC 1518 3 blade prop or ABC S-15 2 blade prop:: Thanks Detox, I'll grab these props and hope to get them tuned by Egneg. I also had written in my notes from this past winters posts were the 2047 or the M448...I'm still a newbie and still don't understand the whole prop setup dia/pitch/cupping magic....wish there were a simple comparison chartComment
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