Should be a warranty issue. They will fix it or replace it. Call Hobbico.
I posted this so ya'll can look out for the same thing on your boats...and to get some advice on how to fix it...if it can be fixed.
I already have a lot invested in this...paint, decals, modified the turn fin and I just added a kick plate for it. I also had to fix the water jacket and squeeze glue through the turn fin holes after I found that crack.
Ya'll think some thin CA would fix this new crack? I'd hate to box this thing up and send it back!
Is this something that these types of boats generally do...get stress cracks?
Is this something that these types of boats generally do...get stress cracks?
Sure... it happens... depends on the hull...
I kind of saw this as a potential problem, so if you follow my UL1 Race Prep thread, when I poured in the epoxy for the backing plate, I ran some down into this area as well. Basically filled it up completely. Just in case.
Perhaps a small hole on the other side and another pour in there may be in order... Guess I have another update to do!
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I have to do some flexing on my boats.. I have not seen this but it bothers me a bunch..
Dang ballance between a racer design and making it useable for the new guy too..
Just in case anyone is wondering...I have not dropped this boat or had it airborne or flipped it. It has run somewhere between 20-30 miles in mostly less than smooth conditions. I would call it simulated race water. (10-20mph winds and one side of the pond is walled) The boat has done what I call the "hospital hop" or violently wobbled from sponson to sponson, but I was always able to save it. I think that probably put the most stress on the hull and may be the culprit for causing the stress fracture.
I'm still reluctant to cut holes in the tub and will try some thin CA in the crack and see how it holds up. Darn rain won't let me get out today...hopefully tomorrow. I may even get brave enough to put on that 40X57 again...I never got it to hook up the first try....but now I know to lower it.
Will I need the air damn for that prop too or should it stay upright with out it?
Capt. Crash...the Montgomery Model Boat Club (MMBC) Guinea Pig!
I checked my boat and it also is cracked in this area but on the same side as the turn fin. The crack is 22mm from the sponson and angles back to the sponson at about 45degrees for about 10mm on the inside and to the transition on the outside. Also there is a crack on the bottom of the sponson where the turn fin mounts. I have run the boat 3 times on fairly flat water using a Octura M445 and a Prather detongued and back cut 225s. Hope this helps.
I do not see it as a design flaw from Grimracer I see it as a Manufact flaw from being to thin on the gelcoat but more inportantly the glass layup which flexes the gel coat and then it cracks.
Glass is much different in that area compared to ABS. It has to be built up there with more than the other parts of the glass hull.
I think it can be fixed easy enough if you like to do that stuff but if not AQ is well aware of the problem....as with the leaking cooling ring.
Robert, thanks for the heads up. I am going to be busy little bee with the mods. Please note this is an RTR boat and for guys who have built boats from scratch or manufactured hulls only. These issues are annoying but fixable.
China has had some quality issues with some products but not all. A prudent distributor of products will sign off on production models at the manufacturer's plant. But that does not mean that all models will be built to design and sign off quality.
Comment