Overheating!!!

[toxic-trip]

Wow, holy cow I had no idea it was that bad to sharpen blades. I think I will just buy a pre-sharpened and balanced prop, what do you guys recommend for props in OSE shop?

[toxic-trip]

Thank you guys SO MUCH!!! It runs freaking awesome, I love it, it is worth every penny for the new power system. After 3, 4minute runs the motor temp was only 108* F and esc was 90* much better than my other system.

[Diesel6401]

Thank you guys SO MUCH!!! It runs freaking awesome, I love it, it is worth every penny for the new power system. After 3, 4minute runs the motor temp was only 108* F and esc was 90* much better than my other system.

Awesome! Glad your happy boater! What was the winning combo?

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

[toxic-trip]

I ended up using the ETTI 150amp 7s esc with extra capacitor bank, leopard 36-74 1400kv motor, 6s 4000mah 45c batts. I still need to get a nice prop for the boat but offshore store is all out of the balanced and sharpened grim prop that I want, so for now I am using stock prop and it hauls!!!! I also have 5 ounces of lead weight on outer front sponsons but at full speed it starts to wobble and almost flips but not quite!!! I think I have the perfect setup, also there was a guy at the pond today that had a little brushed deep-v type boat, I put mine in the water flew by him with a 7 foot rooster tail, and accidentally flipped him over with my wake (I felt bad but also like a bad ass with my sweet new boat)!!!

[toxic-trip]

The only thing I still have a question about is that after the run there was some water in the radio compartment, the only place I can think of it coming from is where the drive shaft goes through the boat, could water potentially be take from prop area and slowly seep up through the drive shaft tube?

[m4a1usr]

The only thing I still have a question about is that after the run there was some water in the radio compartment, the only place I can think of it coming from is where the drive shaft goes through the boat, could water potentially be take from prop area and slowly seep up through the drive shaft tube?

With the stock UL1 innards your going to need to cut the brass stuffing tube back about a 1/4". The stock stuffing tube comes pretty close to the coupler. Mine was about 1/4" away. So what needs to be done is you push out, towards the strut, the teflon liner back far enough to cut off that 1/4" of brass tubing. Then after its been shortened you will need to put a section of silicone tubing around the stuffing tube that comes down to seal around the flex shaft its self. If you do not have the tools or experience to carry out this mod then just do the "simple" method often recommended. Put a piece of sponge under the end of the stuffing tube and it will soak up most of the water coming in.

John

[toxic-trip]

So will the silicon tube be attached to the flex shaft, or around the teflon (clear/white sleeve inside of brass tubing I think)?

[Chrisg81983]

I run he Teflon rite to the end of bass and put the silicone tubing over the brass tubing