Overheating!!!

[Fluid]

First, suggestions of a "stock system" or a 12L Feigao are simply not appropriate for 6S power. OTOH a Feigao 14XL would be about perfect for you, decent speed without as much risk of overheating. You will need a minimum of a 120 amp ESC capable of 6S, and like others I don't run an ESC at maximum rated voltage. Unfortunately that means a high voltage ESC, they are not cheap. While I have not done it, I have seen others get by with a Swordfish 120.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-540XL&cat=116

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=hef-sword-120


Second, do not feel bad about your original choice of cheap electronics. That is a very common mistake by new FE boaters, and can be a much more expensive lesson than yours. The lure of a low price is high, but the satisfaction of owning a fast, dependable FE boat is even higher.


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[Make-a-Wake]

Woah!! My bad, i got to thinking UL -1 and lost the 6s part. Certainly the system is only for 4s, i still stand behind my suggestion in post #13.

Bottom line would simply be a 36mm L motor in 1200-1400 kv range for 6s with a speedo that can handle it.

Sorry my "half asleep" suggestion, good luck!

[m4a1usr]

I am sorry to say MAKE A WAKE but I am not going with hobbyking anymore with boats. I thought boats were like cars or parkflyers where you can get by just fine with cheap electronics (unlike my 50cc and big edf jets). So lets say I can scurry up $250 for this power system (NO MORE THAN THAT, otherwise I give up on boats and go back to my zig zag racers, haha). So please everyone give me your exact recommendation for Motor and Esc with links (I am sticking with 6s, I am not buying more batteries!!!)

Thanks,
Josh

These items can get you performing well on 6S and Steve carries them.

Leopard 3674 1400kv 4 pole motor http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-3674&cat=148

Etti Race 2/7S 150amp ESC http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-race-150-opto

Get the extra cap bank for an additional $15 for running 6S, you wont regret it.

Next buy a good prop. Like the Grim 40/52. Dont run aluminum. Just my 2 cents for a setup.

John

[DBQuick]

Make- a -wake is correct use the original set up for the UL-1. I am looking to put in a bigger ESC like a Hydra Ice 120 ESC 399.00, and also I am going to put in the 1515.1y New Motor 250.00 in my UL-1. It sounds like you just need to put in a little bit of money and then your going to be real happy with what you have done. Don't get discourage I know it sucks when you think your on top of it and then KAAA BOOOOM things go for crap, You have come to the right place to achieve your goals, I have learn so much from here and BELIEVE ME I AM GREEN as to how things work with boats but now I am VERY HAPPY with my UL-1

[Fluid]

Make- a -wake is correct use the original set up for the UL-1....

Whoa dude, better read post #17. To be clear for lurkers, the UL-1 setup is absolutely NOT appropriate for the 6S voltage the OP will be using.


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[toxic-trip]

Thanks FLUID for clearing everything up, everyone I am using 6S NOTHING ELSE!

I have decided to go with this setup, please tell me if you decide this is not going to work.

Motor: 3674 1400kv 2.5y leopard motor ($90)
ESC: ETTI 150amp 7s esc ($150)
Capacitor Bank ($15 w/purchase of esc)
Grim 40-53 2 blade prop ($20)

[Diesel6401]

Thanks FLUID for clearing everything up, everyone I am using 6S NOTHING ELSE!

I have decided to go with this setup, please tell me if you decide this is not going to work.

Motor: 3674 1400kv 2.5y leopard motor ($90)
ESC: ETTI 150amp 7s esc ($150)
Capacitor Bank ($15 w/purchase of esc)
Grim 40-53 2 blade prop ($20)

Grim 40x52/3?
Me likes the setup! A grim L40x57/3 is a wonderful prop for the UL1 also....

[toxic-trip]

So which prop for my setup (also batts are 30c)? I want at least 2 votes for one prop before I buy it today/tomorrow:

Grim 40 53 (2blade)
Grim 40 52 (3blade)
Grim 40 57 (3blade)

[toxic-trip]

Okay so I purchased ETTi 150amp 7s esc w/capacitor bank, I just need to order motor and prop.

Please let me know which of the three props in my previous post I should go with?

[Diesel6401]

Okay so I purchased ETTi 150amp 7s esc w/capacitor bank, I just need to order motor and prop.

Please let me know which of the three props in my previous post I should go with?

I've not read about anyone really running the grim 40x53. The grim 40x52/3 is a metal verison similar in size to the stock prop and is around the size of a x440/3. Its a good overall prop and a good prop to have in the prop box. The L40x57/3 is a lifter prop for hydros/riggers and is limited to those hulls, but is a very fast prop on ul1s. I would focus on the 40x52/3 and the l40x57/3. The 40x52/3 will be able to be used in more applications, but the L40x57/3 may yield better results on this boat. That's the best information I can give you. Just make sure you sharpen & balance them before use (especially the 40x57/3, it needs to be razor sharp). Ignore the fact the box on the prop says it can be run as is. The grim props need sharpened & balanced as well, there just not as raw as octura props.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

[toxic-trip]

With the L40x57/3 on the boat, wouldnt it run much hotter because there is more pitch to the prop so it is "biting" more water?

[dana]

I agree with diesel. I run both props on my stock ul1. 40/52/3 gets about 45 mph. L40/57/3 is the best so far with a cosistant 50mph with proper setup. Also he is 100% correct, these props need to be properly sharp, especially the 40/57 which required me 4 hours of sharpen and balancing to make nice. I've seen the 40/57 unsharpened and thrown onto ul1 and wouldn't even get on a plane. You MUST have this prop done rite for it to work well or even work at all

[toxic-trip]

Okay well I will get the l40x57/3 prop, I am getting a prop balancer with it also, I do not know exactly how to sharpen the blades though, have a link to a thread or something? Do you use just sand paper, hand file, dremel?

[Diesel6401]

Okay well I will get the l40x57/3 prop, I am getting a prop balancer with it also, I do not know exactly how to sharpen the blades though, have a link to a thread or something? Do you use just sand paper, hand file, dremel?

Well out of all the Grim props the L40x57/3 is the most time consuming to sharpen and balance. If the prop is not sharpened enought the boat will just cavatate, but if done correctly its a wicked fast prop. There is information on the tips section here at OSE on the store side. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...andbalance.php

I would highly suggested getting a good respirator as well. When I use to (no longer do) sharpen & balance my own blades I would wear saftey glasses, rubber gloves long sleeve shirt and respirator then I would vaccum myself off and the area with a shop vac and wash my clothes and take a shower as soon as i went back inside. Beryllium copper is some very VERY nasty stuff. I know do what I did when I first started I get my props sharpened and balanced for me.

[Stinger9D9]

Well out of all the Grim props the L40x57/3 is the most time consuming to sharpen and balance. If the prop is not sharpened enought the boat will just cavatate, but if done correctly its a wicked fast prop. There is information on the tips section here at OSE on the store side. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...andbalance.php

I would highly suggested getting a good respirator as well. When I use to (no longer do) sharpen & balance my own blades I would wear saftey glasses, rubber gloves long sleeve shirt and respirator then I would vaccum myself off and the area with a shop vac and wash my clothes and take a shower as soon as i went back inside. Beryllium copper is some very VERY nasty stuff. I know do what I did when I first started I get my props sharpened and balanced for me.

I agree. When I sharpen props, I keep a leak tested industrial HEPA vacuum cleaner (the kind they use for asbestos abatement) running right next to where I am working, and wear the 1/2 face respirator I wear when inspecting asbestos removal work areas.

You might say it's overkill, but you can't see all the beryllium dust you are making, and that dust will scar your lungs. It won't affect you immediately, there is a latency period (much like with asbestos exposure), so you may not notice any ill effects now, but may wind up paying dearly later on in life.

...not to be a Debbie Downer or anything...