Lipos UL-1 and prop

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • racer66
    Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 68

    #16
    I will check out that low voltage cut off for the lipos. I went on line today to Kentic Racing to order some parts, but they r having trouble with the online ordering.

    Are you guys setting times? Like 4 min or so? And r u useing an alarm on the radio or some other beeping alarm to warn you that time is up?

    What should be my first order of business when I get my UL-1? Change the shaft to the .150 Octura and replace the nylon tubing? Thinking about a after market coupler and a bearing that will slide on the motor shaft. Water jacket? I know to grease the shaft well with some Grim grease. Change the onboard connectors to 5.5 bullets, that is what will be in my lipos. Add a low voltage cut off device. And last but not least, a Grim B/S prop.

    Anyways, i am sure I will have tons more questions once I get my boat and parts. I am all ways reading this forurm.

    Comment

    • Diesel6401
      Memento Vivere
      • Oct 2009
      • 4203

      #17
      Originally posted by pescador
      Don't forget a Low-Voltage-Cutoff. I like the Dimension at Kintec Racing that is set at 3.3v.
      Originally posted by racer66
      I will check out that low voltage cut off for the lipos. I went on line today to Kentic Racing to order some parts, but they r having trouble with the online ordering.
      Why are you ordering/using a lipo shield on a esc that already has a LVC?!? Unless you guys know something I don't (which is always possible) sounds like a waste of $$$ to me.

      Originally posted by racer66
      Are you guys setting times? Like 4 min or so? And r u useing an alarm on the radio or some other beeping alarm to warn you that time is up?
      I time my runs. I usually run about 3-4 minutes and my radio (dx3s) has a timer on it that I can easily start/stop. Before that radio my temp gauge which I bought from harbor freight had a timer on it. I think I paid about $9 for that temp gauge and was a GREAT purchase.
      - Diesel's Youtube
      - Diesel's Fleet
      "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

      Comment

      • pescador
        Senior Member
        • May 2009
        • 497

        #18
        The LVC on the ESC is 11.6v with a warning at 12v. That's a little too low for me it's easy to miss the warning if it's a little bit windy or rough. The Dimension LVC from Kintec is set for 3.3v per cell.
        Namba District 16
        1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joes, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.

        Comment

        • Diesel6401
          Memento Vivere
          • Oct 2009
          • 4203

          #19
          Originally posted by pescador
          The LVC on the ESC is 11.6v with a warning at 12v. That's a little too low for me it's easy to miss the warning if it's a little bit windy or rough. The Dimension LVC from Kintec is set for 3.3v per cell.
          To each is own I suppose. I have had that motor/esc in 3 different hulls and have yet to hit the lvc.
          - Diesel's Youtube
          - Diesel's Fleet
          "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

          Comment

          • syncronized77
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 277

            #20
            Originally posted by dana
            and i just installed an air damn on it with Wiper blade
            Is this where you place the air dam? How far back from the sponsons? How deep/long off the hull does it have to be? Can it be made from any material?

            Go Brushless or GO HOME

            Comment

            • dana
              Banned
              • Mar 2010
              • 3570

              #21
              Originally posted by syncronized77
              Is this where you place the air dam? How far back from the sponsons? How deep/long off the hull does it have to be? Can it be made from any material?

              yes. mine is about 2 inches back. i suppose any material will work, i just liked the wiper blade idea. does seem to work well, but then again i wasnt really having any problem to begin with. it does seem a little more planted to the water....

              Comment

              • osprey21
                Senior Member
                • May 2010
                • 693

                #22
                Not mine, but you get the idea. Should be about 1.5 - 2 inches from the front edge, mounted as shown.
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • syncronized77
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 277

                  #23
                  Originally posted by osprey21
                  Not mine, but you get the idea. Should be about 1.5 - 2 inches from the front edge, mounted as shown.
                  It looks like some sort of plastic "L" bracket? connected with double sided tape?

                  OK so couple of inches behind front edge...what about the depth needed? 0.5"?
                  Go Brushless or GO HOME

                  Comment

                  • dana
                    Banned
                    • Mar 2010
                    • 3570

                    #24
                    you only need the air damn to be 1/2 inch or less. its only there to disrupt air. you dont want it to big or it will just be a plow. alot of guys use the plastic corner gaurd you can buy at most hardware stores. i like the wiper blade because its not hard, it has a little give and disrupts airflow just fine. i tried mine today in some heavy chop that ordinarily would have flipped it, and it did really well. its not rocket science here. like osprey said, 1.5 to 2 inches back is perfect

                    Comment

                    Working...