I had alread replaced the stock hose with some tygon tubing I had lying around, it had a bigger ID. After reading on hear last night I made a new pickup with 1/8th copper pipe. There was a huge difference in the amount of flow coming out the back of the boat and also motor temps were way cooler. I never had the speedo heat up much either way. When giving the new pipe its angled cut it looked like the openening to accept water was twice that of the stock pipe.
Upgraded water cooling system....
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Ran it hard today with the dual cooling setup, temps dropped enough to make it worth it, the water felt like bath water today.
After the filler I sanded until I could just see the edges again and knew I was getting contact with the sandpaper across the whole bottom.
I used a 2" wide x 6" long aluminum sanding block but anything stiff and flat will work fine, I just let the paper do the work, the hull is so this if you put pressure on it while sanding I think you would sand deformities into it again.
Had some wind today so I had to drop the strut about 1/8 inch and tighten up the ride a bit, flipped and submarined (not in that order!) on the first run. Was able to run the course full throttle then except the exit of turn 2 because of the wave direction. CG was right at 30%.
The best prop in todays conditions was a x440/3, full throttle was just enough to start getting a touch flighty at the end of the straight into the wind.
This boat really responds well to adjustments, I'd strongly suggest people play around with the strut depth, I'm starting to find the best settings now for different water conditions.If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?Comment
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