CNC vs octura?

[Megabiker98]

Ahhh dang I've heard the x series props create lift! Darn so the cnc props from offshore won't work! And I just ordered from hobbyking, and don't wanna pay expensive shipping for a while! Hahah looks like ill be rocking the octura m445 for a while then!! :/

[Billy Barnacle]

I disagree. I haven't bought a cnc'ed prop from OSE but, I've bought them from elsewhere and although you don't have to sharpen them, it makes a world of difference.

Finishing them doesn't do much but, blade sharpness is important.

Ray,
I didn't buy mine from OSE either, got them from Jan, his are made from T6061, or were when I got mine. Steve wasn't selling CNC props last summer, or at least I don't remember seeing any in his store.

I like the fact that they're balanced, and I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you on the finishing part. Think about it for a minute, tuners always tell people to scuff up the bottom of their hulls, scotch brite, 400-wet/dry, etc., so why wouldn't you want to do the same to your prop?? Sorry guy, but I'm not understanding your logic

The Grim Racer prop guide I included a link to in post #9 states...
"We recommend a satin finish on the prop. A super shiny prop can cavatate more than a brushed satin finish. A satin finish can also help your boat accelerate out of a turn faster. Using a scratch pad, buff the entire prop down until all the shine is off the blades. Be careful as you are now working with a very sharp propeller."

Kinda figured Mikey has forgotten more about props than I'll ever learn, so I went with his advice.

Look at the tool / machining marks on the HK prop you included a link to (see attached), that's what I was referring to in post #9, those are what I'm trying to get rid of, I start with 220 wet/dry and work my way down to 400, I also work on taking out any dings on the leading edges, get 'em nice and sharp

JMHO / .02

[Megabiker98]

Post 15 last link.^^^^

[Billy Barnacle]

Post 15 last link.^^^^

Thank you

[ray schrauwen]

Ray,
I didn't buy mine from OSE either, got them from Jan, his are made from T6061, or were when I got mine. Steve wasn't selling CNC props last summer, or at least I don't remember seeing any in his store.

I like the fact that they're balanced, and I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you on the finishing part. Think about it for a minute, tuners always tell people to scuff up the bottom of their hulls, scotch brite, 400-wet/dry, etc., so why wouldn't you want to do the same to your prop?? Sorry guy, but I'm not understanding your logic

The Grim Racer prop guide I included a link to in post #9 states...
"We recommend a satin finish on the prop. A super shiny prop can cavatate more than a brushed satin finish. A satin finish can also help your boat accelerate out of a turn faster. Using a scratch pad, buff the entire prop down until all the shine is off the blades. Be careful as you are now working with a very sharp propeller."

Kinda figured Mikey has forgotten more about props than I'll ever learn, so I went with his advice.

Look at the tool / machining marks on the HK prop you included a link to (see attached), that's what I was referring to in post #9, those are what I'm trying to get rid of, I start with 220 wet/dry and work my way down to 400, I also work on taking out any dings on the leading edges, get 'em nice and sharp

JMHO / .02

I so call finish them too same as you but, if they had a sharp leading edge I wouldn't touch them. All CNC props I have with the only exception being a CMDI, needed leading edge work for full performance. My CMDI 5018 x3 was sharp as a knife from factory. I would like to see if the VXB from ebay would sharp like CMDI, that would help justify the extra cost compared to what OSE has or HK.

Are OSE CNC props completely razor sharp from the package or not???

The Chinese ones I have worked o.k. from factory but, lit up very nicely after sharpening and scuffing. Easy to keep in balance by remembering how many swipes on 220 paper you do to get a fine edge. I still re-balance but, it's easy with aluminum.

[ray schrauwen]

Watch the bore sizes. They have some real oddballs like 5mm, 6mm, 3mm 4mm and threaded 4mm.

Thank you

[Brushless55]

I'm having good results with my CNC props from OSE

[ray schrauwen]

What are they like? Do they have a razor sharp leading edge like a CMDI or are they sorta blunt like a raw Octura or Prather??
I'd like to know please, thanks!

I'm having good results with my CNC props from OSE

[Billy Barnacle]

What are they like? Do they have a razor sharp leading edge like a CMDI or are they sorta blunt like a raw Octura or Prather??
I'd like to know please, thanks!

Ray,
The ones I got from Jan have a sharp edge, but there is the occasional very minor ding here or there. I'm a perfectionist, figure if I'm going to invest the time to remove the machine / tooling marks, than I should also make sure the leading edges are as sharp as I can possibly make them.

Jan's are now precision machined from strong 7075 aluminum / magnesium hybrid (like Steve's) here's link in case your interested... http://kintecracing.com/CNC_Machined_Props.html

Regarding the odd ball bore sizes... I found instructions at Steves site (I attached them) for making spacers from brass tubing to fit 3/16" props to one of the odd sizes you listed, 4mm. What I do different.. make the spacer the full length of the prop hub and cut slots for the drive dog - see attached example.

Hope That Helps Out...

[Billy Barnacle]

I'm having good results with my CNC props from OSE

Are these the ones your getting??... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Props&sortby=3

Unfortunately, he's out of 42mm - so far that seems to be the size my boat like's most, but I do want to try a 43mm this summer, see what happens.

[ray schrauwen]

Thank you. I didn't completely read your post the first time like I should have about the sharpness.

Ray,
The ones I got from Jan have a sharp edge, but there is the occasional very minor ding here or there. I'm a perfectionist, figure if I'm going to invest the time to remove the machine / tooling marks, than I should also make sure the leading edges are as sharp as I can possibly make them.

Jan's are now precision machined from strong 7075 aluminum / magnesium hybrid (like Steve's) here's link in case your interested... http://kintecracing.com/CNC_Machined_Props.html

Regarding the odd ball bore sizes... I found instructions at Steves site (I attached them) for making spacers from brass tubing to fit 3/16" props to one of the odd sizes you listed, 4mm. What I do different.. make the spacer the full length of the prop hub and cut slots for the drive dog - see attached example.

Hope That Helps Out...

[Billy Barnacle]

Thank you. I didn't completely read your post the first time like I should have about the sharpness.

Your welcome, glad I was able to hellp out

[mtbenjamin77]

Has anyone tried these props? I looking for a good set of CNC'd L&R props for my twin 1515's

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VXP-VX4218-3-CNC-3-Blade-RIGHT-LEFT-TURN-42-mm-1-8p-4mm-Propeller-EP-Boat-Prop-/170922669459?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item27cbc8f593

[Megabiker98]

nope never tried them! MYGOD! $129 😱 I most likely won't be trying them! Hahahah

[mtbenjamin77]

the 3/16 version is 139. I don't mind paying for a good product especially when it comes to props. But untested it's too much risk. I'll stick to sharpening and balancing my own octuras Only problem is octura does not make a prop this size in L&R