Not So Boldly Going Where Others Have Gone Before. RC Nano-Hydro

[Dr. Jet]

[NativePaul]

I think I just killed my ESC, I was de-pinning it and whiped a tiny resistor? (broken in top right of pic, with identical good component next to it, and unfortunatly those components are the only unmarked parts on the ESC) off next to a pin, then broke it in my clumsy attempt to solder it back on.

I cut out the hatch though, and I am pretty happy with the weight, while it still has a little more to add, all the electrics/electronics are in it here, along with most of the hardware, and the weight is exactly an ounce. CoG is on the motor.
nano_7873.jpgnano_7874.jpgnano_7879.jpgnano_7880.jpgnano_7885.jpg

[CraigP]

Paul, that’s actually a capacitor. It should work without it, but I’m sure you would be safe with a 0.22uF SM Cap with a voltage rating of 25V. You’re in the UK, but if you need a part number just let me know. And if you could measure the length of the cap (use the one still on the PCB) that would help too.

[NativePaul]

Thanks Craig, I will give it a go as is. If it is a cap I would have boiled it dry 20 times over trying to get the tiny thing back on, before I broke it.

[NativePaul]

It does indeed work, thanks Craig, that saved me a tenner.

A word of warning the Hobbyking Losi micro compatible fly leads are wired in reverse to the Losi Micro compatible plugs on thier 1s 300mAh packs, luckily I unsoldered everything to double check what voltages were going in and coming out with the missing cap, and found I had red going into the plug and black coming out of it, could have easily fried the ESC had I not have messed up previously.

[NativePaul]

The carbon wire drive was a failiure though, it is far too stiff to flex easily from motor to strut over just 4", and that stiffness puts a lot of force on the bearing areas making it hard to turn. The 2.5mm piano wire in my SAWs rigger seems easier to turn as the bend radius is so much bigger. Maybe it would work with tiny steel wire around .25mm, but I dont have the facilities or budget, so I will try to break out the motor mount and re-angle it for a straight carbon shaft with as low an angle as I can get.

[NativePaul]

Finished 32.9g/1.15oz RTR!

[NativePaul]

It really didn't look right without a scoop, so I added one and a canard too. I also gave it a sharpie paint job.
nano_7899.jpgnano_7901.jpgnano_7904.jpg

[NativePaul]

The additions brought the all up RTR weight to 33.3g or 1.175oz
As all the electrics/electronics totalled 20.2g that means the hull, hardware, wiring, and "paintjob" only came to 13.1g, I am pretty happy with that.

nano_7887.jpgnano_7890.jpgnano_7896.jpgnano_7897.jpgnano_7898.jpg

[Dr. Jet]

Looks cool! Show us the innards and how does it go?

[NativePaul]

I've not wet it yet.
nano_7911.jpgnano_7912.jpgnano_7913.jpg

[NativePaul]

There's not much to see, the battery, ESC and RX fit under the front deck.

[boredom.is.me]

It's been some time, but I used 0.5mm music wire for my flex drives. This is pretty old tech though. I've been playing with other shaft options and so far haven't found anything else. The 0.5mm (0.020") has worked with up to 1015 brush less inrunners so far.

Acrylic rod
Flexible servo rod (Sullivan .032)
Carbon rod

The biggest issue is the coupler. A fellow members made a 1mm coupler for me a few years back and it was a God send. But even with that (that's no longer with us ), the wire has to be glued into a larger tube. The system is somewhat permanent once installed.