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I shot a clip of my Mini ECO jumping at Jackson Lake, I am aware the OP is not interested in this boat, however, since I bought the subject up, thought I will follow thru .
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Too many boats, not enough time...
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I love how this cheap boat has a water tight seal,
And looks to be made pretty will and setup well for what it is.
I mean what would take to have that on all rtr.
How narrow is that hull ?
I use a x440/3 on my Rio ep and it works pretty good,
And I just picked up a x437/3 to try on it to.Last edited by lenny; 07-28-2013, 02:28 PM.Comment
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Thanks for that video, landauer. That's what I want to be able to do on Lake Erie if I'm up there or just on any smaller pond. I decided that the Barbwire meets almost everything I'm after so I've ordered one. Can't wait for it to get here. I'm going to replace the ESC with a 35 amp seaking and a metal prop of the same size plus 1mm as its as close as I can find.
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The Barbwire is 4.3" wide.Comment
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Did you use a "X" style prop or "M"??
Lenny has told me a couple times to use 3-blade props with my AQ Rio EP brushless to help with torque roll. He's having great luck with them with his BL AQ Rio EP, but unfortunately I can't say that; they do control torque roll but they also kill top end speed by a very noticable amount.
I started with x440/3, motor ran real hot & top speed was non-existant. Stepped down to a x436/3 (PB 1800Kv on 3S), no more motor heating issues but top end speed still suffered - not as bad as x440, but still...
In this thread... http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=speed+control - the OP said he got great results from a m435/3. I've read similar results in other threads as well for boats like / similar to the AQ Rio, PB IM26 & PB SW26v3 (brushed).
Any help / suggestions would be really appreciated.
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I also have noticed that the three blade prop does help with instability in the hull, I have one on my MiniRio and it made all the difference. It's easily going at it's max speed for the hull too, I don't have any numbers but it works well. I'm going to try a three prop on my Pursuit soon but most likely will end up with a 2 blade as that's what's on there now and it works very well.Comment
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I received my Atomik Barbwire just last weekend and was finally able to run it in a small pond tonight and I'll tell you what, it is AWESOME! I went ahead and changed the ESC for a Seaking 35A and put a standard water outlet on the side of the hull because it looked better. It turns on a dime when going left and still pretty sharp on the right turns but has a tendecncy to flip if you turn too hard left. Which is OK, it just takes a little getting used to. The thing flipped back upright on it's own all but one time. It even dove once far enough I couldn't see it anymore but popped right back up. Too much fun! I'm working on a better waterproofing measure as it leaks too much for my liking. Love it so far! Great Recommendation.Comment
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Ok, so had a little mishap today. Was running the barbwire and the seaking capacitor hit the motor destroying it. I want to get a new one and solder it in place but I was wondering if I need the same voltage/uF as what was on or if a bigger voltage/uF would hurt anything. It cane with one 16V 470 uF capacitor.
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So, it won't hurt anything that it is a higher Voltage and uF rating? What is the advantage if it won't hurt to having a higher voltage/uF capacitor? I have had some problems with the LVC cutting in too soon, any chance that will be helped by it?Comment
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It will help supply more volts to the motor faster when it is needed,
And also help not stress your cells so much to.
Added higher uF caps is a good thing to do on most setups.
It may help with the LVC cutting in to,
What C rate are the cells that you are using in that boat ?
I just time my run some times if that happen with some old packs I am using,
And I turn off the LVC when timing the runs.Comment
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I can run the Venom 1300mAh 3s 25c stock battery and it runs till it hits about 10.2V but my Turnigy Nano-tech 2.2mAh 25C/50C always seems to have the LVC cut in far sooner than the lower capacity battery. I pull it and it shows around 12V most times when the LVC hit. It's wierd but it's probably the dang nano-techs. I have some flightmax batteries and they are solid. Just can't find any in stock in the US warehouse for my pursuit and the barbwire.
I might drop the LVC to 3.0V/cell instead of 3.4 and see if that helps.Comment
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Ok, so I made a quick stop by radioshack to see what they had and they had a 37V 470uF capacitor with the leads on each end instead of both out the bottom. Will this work do you guys think? If so how do I know which lead to put in which hole in the circuit board?
Thanks!Last edited by hyrulejedi86; 08-21-2013, 11:13 AM.Comment
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My recollection is that there is a reason why ESCs use Rubicon CAPS, they are the so called film/fluid cap as compared to the Radio Shack's "solid" ceramic type. The Rubicon type is suited for high voltage/fast discharge application. When going bad, the so-called ''solid" ceramic type turn to powder inside or just go dead, they don't bulge or "explode" as the ones on ESCs do. I would find one that is compatible like the original one on your 35amp Seaking ESC. Higher capacitance is OK, just not a different type of capacitor.
I would use the ones suggested by Ray.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
? ONLY IF THEY WORK 
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