I would try to raise the strut to level or 1/8" higher than the bottom of the sponsons. You may notice a depreciation in temps as well as an increase in speed and runtime.
32" Imex Cat
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10-4. Im thinking that the motor got warmer than usual because of the bag fiasco. It was one of the heavy duty black yard bags. Knotted a huge ball around the prop. I will know more tomorrow... I hope.Comment
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Good news, and not so good news. Well, at least everything still works for now....
I ran it today a few times. First, 3S on a 442. Temps were ESC 102, Motor 116, Batts 128. I didnt run it hard. Just turned a couple quick laps. Didnt get a vid of that one.
Second run, again on 3S, but with a 440. Will post the vid asap Esc was 101, Motor 115 Batt was 146, which I think is gettin up there?
Third run, wow and wow... 4S on the 442, will post the vid asap, ESC 131, Motor 169 and batts at 146. Not doin that again.
Will the 440 unload it enough? Or should I quit while Im ahead running it 4S?
Dom, heres the pics you requested and some others. Check out the pic with the 2 2S's that is verticle (last pic). It got so hot after the last run, first when I pulled the cover, a small amount of smoke puffed out, all my deans need re-done as it melted and broke all the heatshrinks at the connector AND the batt wires melted my green foam.
Again, I will get the vids up asap
Oh and again, Im the driver, videographer AND the photographer. Its a wonder how I havent put her in the bank yet...Comment
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I would stay with the X440 or the stock prop. Maybe some positive angle on the strut?Does water flow thru the cooling system ok? Did it appear to run faster with the strut raised? Where would you say you COG is with the 4s? Did you play with the strut height?Government Moto:
"Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."Comment
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I wanted to go back out with a strut adjustment, but when I saw what temps were at, I dry docked it. Water is flowing VERY well. I think it did run faster withe the strut raised. COG on 4s is 31% from the back of the sponson, not the transom.
Vids in 5 minComment
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3S http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MoGmiq03F8
4S http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TlvD8aCEMg
Oh and the good news from before, is it handles like a dream, the second close turn around in the 4S vid, it did not slide out, I just goofed it running it one handed. Keep an eye on the 1:11 mark, good timesComment
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It looks pretty good on both runs. The motor temps were too high. Usually that comes from the motor working too hard and pulling too many amps. I know I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but fiddle with the strut. I'd stick with the x440 for now. But you are definitely getting there. It's looks like it is alot faster than your first video posted on this thread. Good Job!Government Moto:
"Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."Comment
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Thanx. Its definitely movin much better. And Im really suprised how well it corners. I think I hit something when I rolled it in the vid. There was a lot of fish popping the surface this evening.... I think I caught one. And now that I CAN power through turns, its really workin a lot more than it used to. Yeah I was shocked when I pulled the temp gauge and it was almost 170. I checked it 5 more times to be sure I wasnt seeing things. And that was end bell temp, not cooling jacket temps. I will run it on 4S in the am, back on the 440, and fiddle w/ strut angles and depths.Comment
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Cool..No pun intended. Just keep playing with the strut height and angles. but always keep it above the the sponsons. One more thing. Make sure you have at least 1/8" clearence between the strut and drive dog. Keep us posted.Government Moto:
"Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."Comment
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Yeah Ive got a gap. And I will for sure.Comment
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Good to see that you've got the cornering sorted.
I agree with Domwilson. Just raise the strut a bit more. Try 1/16" at a time. Makes a helluva difference to temps. You'll know when you've gone too far because the prop will just blow out at high speed. Simply take it back to the previous setting then.
A prop that worked well for me is the Grim Racer 40mm X 52mm/3blade. With a pitch of 1.3 it seems to allow the motor to rev a bit more freely even though it's a three blade prop. That should help keep the temps down too.
You might consider changing the Deans to 5.5 or 6mm bullet connectors too if the wiring is getting that hot. I think the amps you are pulling on 4s are exceeding the Deans capabilities.
I like the look of this cat. Your perseverance is paying of. Keep at it.
Cheers.
Paul.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Paul thanks for the comments. I really like the looks of it as well. Its getting there. Thats funny you mention about the Bullets. I was going to start a thread about changing to those. It seams Deans give me nothing but issues from the get go anyway. Shrihk wraps are always cracking. I get one or 2 solders out of them before the plugs are messed up anyway. Im liking the sounds of bullets. Ive taken several electronics classes, making everything from Strobe lights to phones and even made an alarm sensor that detects water when its in the boat. Not good for my gassers because I couldnt hear it, but could work quite well in the FE boats. If I could only remember what I did w/ it. Anyway, back on topic, so I can put together circuit boards, but Deans kick my a$$ in soldering.
Anyways, I played extensively with the strut this am. Took my wrenches down to the pond with me and adjusted it every 2 laps or so. Im getting almost like a chine walk in the straights. Sometimes it tries to settle, but then Ive got to turn and once it comes out of the turn it imediately starts again. Its as if the left sponson is trying to lift (front) and the right sponson is trying to hold it down (back). In other words, its not a bounce like it trimmed too high, its like a, what Ive heard in the marine industry, "potato chipping". In the corners, there is no bounce at all and it just corners like its on rails. It stays very flat.After I brought it in on the last run, I raised the strut up more, and now Ive got to wait to recharge. Ive gone from 1/8 above the sponsons with a little positive pitch to more positive pitch, to raising the strut another 1/8, little pitch, more pitch, to level with the sponson w/ almost no pitch. And Im seeing changes, but so far I cant stop it. as I said, now Ive raised it up higher than its been and Ive put more angle on it. Hopefully I will get to try it out again today. Im doing some lid mods to it now (flotation and I modified the inside of the air scoop on top.) The scoop would alow air, and water into the boat. Before my maiden voyage, I put a piece of radio box tape over it to keep the water out. So today I went inside the hatch, cut a thin piece of styrene to the outline of the depression of the scoop (hatch laying upside down) painted the top side of the styrene black as well as the inside of the scoop black then epoxied it in and covered it w/ a layer of, I think 2 or 3 oz. Its all I had. I also filled the holes where the posts came thru the lid to pin it down. I pushed the posts loose and into the hull so they didnt stick up thru the lid anymore, then I used to just put another strip of tape over the holes to cover them up. Now they are filled so I dont have to anymore. Heres some pics of what Im trying to say...
Its getting there!
Can I ditch my radio box and just mount everything? Other than if the lid explodes in a crash and everything is expose, is there any disadvantages of not having a box? I want to get rid of it because it takes up too much room.Comment
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Are the temps changing as you raised the strut or changed the angles?
As for the chine walking, I can't help you there as I've never encountered the problem so I don't know the remedy.
I think Ozzie Crawl had some issues with that. He might help if he reads this.
The mods to the hatch look good.
I've never used a radio box in any of my boats. If you put the receiver in a balloon
you shouldn't have any problems. Just keep the wet stuff out of the boat.
All the best.
Paul.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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