Rudder pushrod-linkage

[DISAR]

The rudder pushrod and linkage has always been a sort of headache to me. It's like a weak point. I have used the semi-flex from Sullivan with clevis on both ends and a 2 mm stainless push rod threaded one one end with clevis on the other end epoxied something like the SV has (could not make thread), but I am not 100% happy with them. I would like to ask you the following and if possible to add some links:

a) What push rod are you using for boats 30-36" length, preferrably stainless
b) What linkage are you using to connect the push tod to the servo and to the rudder

Thanks

[ozzie-crawl]

i would like to see some more options as well, do you think 3-4mm s/s rod with ball joints like on steering for rc cars would work?

[lomdel]

I'll be watching this as I have exactly the same question...

[DISAR]

3-4 mm s/s rods with ball joints is excellent but where to find? In my r/c cars never had any problem with linkage but with the boats is .....

[Simon.O.]

I am in the process of making one.
I have the dual steering horns on the rudder and a nice strong 2 arm servo horn.
My crawler will lose a steering servo to this project, it needs a more powerful one anyway.
I have spent many hours losing sleep over the whole push-pull or pull-pull issue.

Firstly 3 mm stainless rod is well strong enough in a pull-pull situtation for a decent size boat, in fact thin kevlar strand works well too. Just ask the fly boys.

I will be going with 3 mm, or less, threaded rod with decent ball ends in a pull-pull to turn a 36"+ cat on a 1"rudder blade.
If these ball ends will turn my crawler on the rocks then I am sure that a cat will not be a problem.

I'l have the whole setup ready in a week or two. It all depends on what SHE needs doing around here.

[DISAR]

I (we) need something that will be straight forward like:

3-4 mm s/s rod threaded ends- adjustable length - ball joints at servo and rudder

Now it is totally custom made and takes looong time to make and then have to change again and so on...
If you check also in Steven's shop in "linkage" section there are only the boots, nothing else. Something is missing here.

[Simon.O.]

There are times that we have to make do with what we have at hand.
Here are a few parts that I use and will use.
5mm ball and end
4mm ball-end joint on the servo for my OB powered Tunnel, there are balls on the OB unit too that allow me to pull the steering links for quick maintenance.
The last is a new one for me and that is on the new big rigger. This is a plane bit that I have bonded to brass rod that is inside the alloy-dress tube.

For my big Cat I will try for a "hydraulic ram" look when I do the pull-pull setup.

[andym]

I use these from Andrew G at Fastelectrics.com , just scroll down to near the bottom of the page, http://www.fastelectrics.com/hardware.asp

[DISAR]

Thanks. So you use the 2mm push rod with the 2mm Dubro Safety Lock or the 2mm Dubro ball joint?
These will fit on the threaded end, on the other end?

[andym]

Yes I use the 2mm in all my boats, with the servo near the rear of the boat this is more than strong enough. As far as the HW I use what is better of the three ( eazy con, ball and safety lock) in each situation. As my mono set up is different to my sport20 and that is different to the sport40 and so on. Buy a bag of each and problem solved,

[DISAR]

Appreciate, many thanks. I have 2mm push rods s/s and will try the Dubro connectors. I saw also there are these couplers http://cgi.ebay.com/Dubro-Threaded-C...3286.m20.l1116 for the non threaded end

[Simon.O.]

Dimitrios.
I have used the 2 mm "swivel" ball joint and the 3mm too.
If I can not thread something to go in there I use a good epoxy and that end is now fixed. This is what I now have for the big rigger.
For the other end I have used the Du-Bro ezi-connector with a narrow brass rod running through it. This brass rod (1/16") goes all the way to the rudder and is soldered into a 3/32"piece that is then epoxied into the ball end.

I make all of these pieces and then test them to see what will pull out. In fact I do a lot of destructive testing.
On this one I scored the wire with my pliers and it still did not pull out. It is good to go.

[lomdel]

...For my big Cat I will try for a "hydraulic ram" look when I do the pull-pull setup.

I would love to see these develop and what parts you use for the scale look..

[Simon.O.]

I would love to see these develop and what parts you use for the scale look..

Lombard
I am working on it, just don't hold your breath. It will take a bit of time and experimenting.
I have a rigger to finish and get wet too !!

[ozzie-crawl]

i have looked at the du-bro ones like in simons picture but couldnt some company make them out of alloy or carbon fibre strong, light not to mention look good or get some 4-40 s/s and buy a die put your own thread on