Drive hardware for twin cats

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  • lomdel
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2008
    • 708

    #1

    Drive hardware for twin cats

    I can't remember whose (HPR?) cat is the one I post here, but I like the idea of using ordinary 3/16" struts and rudder hardware to create a cool looking rear-end. No stingers and centre-mounted rudders like twin cats usually feature.
    What I would like to know is where I can get these beautifull rudder pushrods? I intend to do a similiar set-up on a 32" cat.
    I would also like to see what you guys did to the business-end of your twin cats...
    Attached Files
  • Jeff Wohlt
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2008
    • 2716

    #2
    For perfromance this is the way to do it. Much more adjustment for depth compared to and up and down option only on stingers. It is just if you want them to look this way. Maybe a neat molded outboard hood on those struts would be cool! Wonder if I could vac form some of those.
    www.rcraceboat.com

    [email protected]

    Comment

    • lomdel
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2008
      • 708

      #3
      Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt
      ...Maybe a neat molded outboard hood on those struts would be cool! Wonder if I could vac form some of those.
      I wonder too....

      I like the busy feel of the rear end. It makes it look more complicated than it actually is, although it is not exactly scale looking. And then the greater adjustment issue.

      Comment

      • Simon.O.
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Oct 2007
        • 1521

        #4
        Lombard, this is the one you are after ??
        http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=4908

        Kevin is very helpful and may help you with some setup ideas.

        I have not given up on a twin cat it is just moved down the build list while I get this 4S Rigger ready.
        When I do my twin I plan on struts for ease of adjustment, the difference being I will have the nose of the strut shaft up near the sponson transom and a large diameter brass tube with the wire inside.
        Here is a pic that should help demonstrate what I mean.
        Attached Files
        See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with wood

        Comment

        • lomdel
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2008
          • 708

          #5
          Thanx, Simon. How are you going to get the strut (which one) in there?
          Last edited by lomdel; 03-26-2009, 02:29 AM.

          Comment

          • Simon.O.
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Oct 2007
            • 1521

            #6
            Originally posted by lomdel
            Thanx, Simon. How are you going to get the strut (which one) in there?
            The strut will be one of my own design and fab.
            In there ?? The strut naturally will be very short in height and will sit below the rear overhang. Given that I will be building the hull the bracket will be built into this area. I envisage a alloy blade protruding from the lower skin of the overhang. The strut will bolt to this.
            As a retrofit into a production hull such as the Chinese agitator, I can think of a few ways to get a mounting blade up in there to bolt a strut to.

            Another option is still to use stingers in conjunction with the flooded shaft principle. I have done this in my small mono as a prototype. Not a tru stinger but the idea holds. Slotted holes in the mount flange allows vertical adjustment.
            Note: A true strut will allow more adjustment.

            If you are keen to persue these ideas let me know and I'll get some drawings underway and see what sort of strut blades would suit you.
            Otherwise send me the hull and I'll do it all for you, should take no more than 3 years.
            Last edited by Simon.O.; 03-26-2009, 04:03 AM. Reason: Additional info
            See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with wood

            Comment

            • lomdel
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2008
              • 708

              #7
              Originally posted by Simon.O.
              ...As a retrofit into a production hull such as the Chinese agitator, I can think of a few ways to get a mounting blade up in there to bolt a strut to.

              Another option is still to use stingers in conjunction with the flooded shaft principle. I have done this in my small mono as a prototype. Not a tru stinger but the idea holds. Slotted holes in the mount flange allows vertical adjustment.
              Note: A true strut will allow more adjustment.

              If you are keen to persue these ideas let me know and I'll get some drawings underway and see what sort of strut blades would suit you.
              Otherwise send me the hull and I'll do it all for you, should take no more than 3 years.
              3 Years! LMAO!! It would be a Agitator retrofit, Simon. Any ideas and drawing to get stuff under there would be appreciated... I dreamed up this clean and cool looking idea to use two of these kind of swooping (Solinger would be too small(?) Strudders. See drawing attached (not to scale). It would allow a lot of adjustment and provide two rudders that I was looking for and only two mounting plates on the transom...
              Attached Files
              Last edited by lomdel; 03-26-2009, 04:40 AM.

              Comment

              • lomdel
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2008
                • 708

                #8
                If I decide to use two of these http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/catalog...roducts_id=553 , where can I get two counter rotating 4mm flex shafts assembled with 4mm drive shafts?

                Comment

                • Jeff Wohlt
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jan 2008
                  • 2716

                  #9
                  You can't unless you grind the 4mm cable down. I posted something under the wrong post about some struts with 4mm shafts. Easier to run some 078 wires and forget the left and right lay cable.

                  I can make the 4mm shafts that step up to 3/16 for the prop. This is what I am doing to some new struts I have.

                  They would work well like Kevin's set up.
                  www.rcraceboat.com

                  [email protected]

                  Comment

                  • Simon.O.
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Oct 2007
                    • 1521

                    #10
                    Motors for twin cats

                    To save having threads everywhere I chose to keep this one going.
                    What I a looking for is solid suggestions for motor options for twin cats.
                    Hulls in particular are.
                    Mean machine.
                    32" E-bay Cat. Agitator look alike.
                    30"+ variations of the Balsa cat.
                    See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with wood

                    Comment

                    • ozzie-crawl
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Sep 2008
                      • 2865

                      #11
                      you could try ammo 2300s or 2600s, i have also been looking at the ul-1 package steve has as this includes the 60amp esc, two of these spinning x447 props may be a good start

                      Comment

                      • lomdel
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2008
                        • 708

                        #12
                        Simon. You have been at this twin cat thing for quite some time now. I do believe that at this stage you should be the one providing the solid suggestions as a result of your research into the matter.
                        Ozzie. I am seriously considering two Ammo 2600's on 4S each. The ESC is still a problem, though. Need something small(ish) and light(ish) therefore the Etti's won't do. I have looked at the watercooled and waterproofed Hobbywing Seaking 90A's. Just don't know wether they will be able to handle a 4S set-up... (You remember my motor-mounts?)

                        Comment

                        • crrcboatz
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2009
                          • 914

                          #13
                          Originally posted by lomdel
                          Simon. You have been at this twin cat thing for quite some time now. I do believe that at this stage you should be the one providing the solid suggestions as a result of your research into the matter.
                          Ozzie. I am seriously considering two Ammo 2600's on 4S each. The ESC is still a problem, though. Need something small(ish) and light(ish) therefore the Etti's won't do. I have looked at the watercooled and waterproofed Hobbywing Seaking 90A's. Just don't know wether they will be able to handle a 4S set-up... (You remember my motor-mounts?)
                          Hobby wing now makes a 120 amp version of that esc. They are on ebay for 74 bucks and 14 shipping. 120 continuos and 240 for 10 sec.

                          Comment

                          • lomdel
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 708

                            #14
                            Originally posted by crrcboatz
                            Hobby wing now makes a 120 amp version of that esc. They are on ebay for 74 bucks and 14 shipping. 120 continuos and 240 for 10 sec.
                            The link : http://cgi.ebay.com/Seaking-120A-Wat...3286.m20.l1116
                            Now this looks like a nice cheap card-programmable alternative for a twin drive set-up. If you buy two with combined shipping it would be a bargain, no matter where in the world you are. Install them, add the Etti cap banks and you should have a foolproof system, no matter what batt/motor combo you run. X442 props should keep the amps at bay as well...

                            Comment

                            • ozzie-crawl
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Sep 2008
                              • 2865

                              #15
                              i know a bit of head room on escs is good but i cant see the ammos needing more than 60 amps i run one in my mono and it only pulls 45amps max with a x440, i know you will be running 442s but with 2 motors it shouldnt load each motor as much, what about the 60amp ones from the ul-1.
                              lomdel, i have your mounts bent up just have to drill holes and trim to size,i havent contacted you back as someone stole my email account and has been using it to try and get money out off people, i have just started a new email address, pics of brackets
                              Attached Files

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