My new to me Genesis

[paDDY]

I poured a carbon epoxy mix into the tips of the sponsons and in-between the center joint of the hull. I also laid a piece of fiberglass cloth on the top deck for some additional stiffness. The hull deck joint I covered with epoxy and carbon mix. The hull is really a lot stiffer and not so hollow sounding. Next is the running gear. I think I read in here somewhere that you install it all with anti-seize and then pour epoxy over it?

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[fweasel]

I'm not sure what process you're describing with anti-seize and epoxy. I like to fill the rudder standoff areas in smaller cats like this with epoxy and chopped carbon fiber and bury blind nuts in the epoxy so I don't have to mess with installing lock nuts and washers from the inside. When I do that, I cover the threads of the longer stainless rudder mount screws and interior threads of the blind nuts with anti-seize so the epoxy doesn't stick to them. I usually cut some plastic tube spacers for the long screws, or use thin walled carbon tubes to that I can install the screws and blind nuts through the hull and tighten them down before the pour. Without the spacers, there's nothing to tighten the screws against.

Another option is to just cut out a small carbon stiffening plate and epoxy it to the inside of the rudder standoff. Once the epoxy dries, you redrill the existing holes. That works better on larger hulls with more interior surface area to work with.

[paDDY]

I'm not sure what process you're describing with anti-seize and epoxy. I like to fill the rudder standoff areas in smaller cats like this with epoxy and chopped carbon fiber and bury blind nuts in the epoxy so I don't have to mess with installing lock nuts and washers from the inside. When I do that, I cover the threads of the longer stainless rudder mount screws and interior threads of the blind nuts with anti-seize so the epoxy doesn't stick to them. I usually cut some plastic tube spacers for the long screws, or use thin walled carbon tubes to that I can install the screws and blind nuts through the hull and tighten them down before the pour. Without the spacers, there's nothing to tighten the screws against.

Another option is to just cut out a small carbon stiffening plate and epoxy it to the inside of the rudder standoff. Once the epoxy dries, you redrill the existing holes. That works better on larger hulls with more interior surface area to work with.

I think I get your proses. So, the spacers are used on the outside of the hull to pull the nuts tight to the transom before you pour epoxy/carbon. Hardwear bolts lubed up with anti seize.

[fweasel]

I think I get your proses. So, the spacers are used on the outside of the hull to pull the nuts tight to the transom before you pour epoxy/carbon. Hardware bolts lubed up with anti seize.

I don't like the blind nuts (T nuts) to be right up against the inside of the hull, and prefer them to be deeper in the epoxy pour for more strength. If you just installed them inside with the original length bolts, there would be no need for spacers. Everything would get installed, coated, then epoxy poured over from the inside. I want the blind nuts closer to the surface of the hardened epoxy pour. I've considered doing it in two stages if I had to do it again on a Genesis sized hull. I would fill the rudder standoff area about 3/4 full with epoxy and chopped fibers, let it cure, redrill the mounting holes for the rudder mount, install longer stainless screws coated in anti-seize, and set the blind nuts right on the surface of the epoxy. I would then pour another layer of epoxy and fibers over the top of the blind nuts to lock them in place.

I've moved on to building mostly larger hulls and haven't ever needed to employ the revised process.

[paDDY]

I don't like the blind nuts (T nuts) to be right up against the inside of the hull, and prefer them to be deeper in the epoxy pour for more strength. If you just installed them inside with the original length bolts, there would be no need for spacers. Everything would get installed, coated, then epoxy poured over from the inside. I want the blind nuts closer to the surface of the hardened epoxy pour. I've considered doing it in two stages if I had to do it again on a Genesis sized hull. I would fill the rudder standoff area about 3/4 full with epoxy and chopped fibers, let it cure, redrill the mounting holes for the rudder mount, install longer stainless screws coated in anti-seize, and set the blind nuts right on the surface of the epoxy. I would then pour another layer of epoxy and fibers over the top of the blind nuts to lock them in place.

I've moved on to building mostly larger hulls and haven't ever needed to employ the revised process.

Thank you fweasel. I will do it the way you explained.

[paDDY]

I am waiting for some parts from ose to continue the build. In the meantime, I am dry fitting parts. Question-regarding esc placement. Should I be placing the esc closer to the motor or should I place it farther forward toward the bow?
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[fweasel]

Put it right where you have it. Power cable length and access to the battery trays is more important than motor wire length. Get a longer cooling jacket for the motor, cover as much surface area as possible. The Rocket RC 40L on eBay is one of my favorites.

[paDDY]

Put it right where you have it. Power cable length and access to the battery trays is more important than motor wire length. Get a longer cooling jacket for the motor, cover as much surface area as possible. The Rocket RC 40L on eBay is one of my favorites.

Cool, I'll leave it where it is, and mount it once my mounting screws come from ose. I tried a longer cooling can for the motor, but it was hitting the bottom of the hull.

[fweasel]

I tried a longer cooling can for the motor, but it was hitting the bottom of the hull.

That mount is adjustable. You can raise the height of the front mount and adjust the angle of the motor can to clear the bottom of the tunnel. Often times, clearance with these low profile hulls comes down to millimeters. You can consider filing a flat spot on the leading edge under the water jacket for more room.

[paDDY]

I did some work over the weekend and am just about ready for a water test. I just ordered the esc programmer, hoping that it will fix the reverse motor rotation. The last pic is a new prop I have I was thinking of trying to start with? Or I have something in the 40mm size? I need to buy some props...

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[fweasel]

Programmers are good to have, but you don't need it to reverse the motor rotation. Swap any two motor wires on the ESC and the motor will spin in the opposite direction.

[Xrayted]

^
Looks good, but what he said! Swapping around any two random phases of any brushless motor will reverse its direction. No card required and takes 10 seconds

[Bande1]

I did some work over the weekend and am just about ready for a water test. I just ordered the esc programmer, hoping that it will fix the reverse motor rotation. The last pic is a new prop I have I was thinking of trying to start with? Or I have something in the 40mm size? I need to buy some props...

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boat is looking great! what prop did you buy? You are running 6s I presume? Pickup some of the $10 TFL props off OSE. they are junky and soft but great to have around, cheap, and awesome for modifying to see what it gets you. bend the tips out to give it pitch, back cut the trailing edge, de-tongue, etc.

good props in stock might be
ABC 1815-17-45
ABC 1716-17-45
ABC 1715-17-45
ABC 1715-19-38 (19-38 props stress the motor and batteries less but have less acceleration)

that should get you around 60mph for lapping without over-stressing the system too much.

[fweasel]

A prepped ABC 1915 17*45 prop will put you at 90mph on 6S with the proper trim settings and balance. With your initial stated goal of 80mph SAW passes, an ABC 1815 should get you there with a little more in the tank. I would suggest something smaller on diameter to maiden the boat with while you work out the kinks.

[paDDY]

Cool, thanks for the prop suggestions, guys. I am going to place an order for a few props to play with. Currently I am working on reinforcing the hatch cover. I laid a piece of glass on it this morning. I was going to do carbon fiber but didn't want to lose gps signal.
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