TFL Hobbies Company - Customer Service?

[Insaniac]

Time will tell...

[Panther6834]

Time will tell...

So, in other words, what you're saying is, you don't know whether TFL NA had them in-stock, or had to order them from TFL. Seems to me, you just want to complain, purely because you don't have them yet...but, at the same time, for all you know, TFL NA is waiting for them to arrive from TFL. Taking that's another step, for all you know, TFL might not have any in their own warehouse, and could be awaiting the manufacturing of them.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[Insaniac]

So, in other words, what you're saying is, you don't know whether TFL NA had them in-stock, v or had to order them from TFL. Send to me, you just want to complain, purely because you don't have them yet...but, at the same time, for all you know, TFL NA is waiting for them to arrive from TFL. Taking that's another step, for all you know, TFL Mike's not have any in there warehouse, and could be awaiting the manufacturing of them.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

I will update this thread when I receive them.

[Insaniac]

Items finally arrived today...

[Insaniac]

I had been away from RC boating for health issues. I ran the twin Cheetah last weekend and the wimpy TFL collet on the port motor couldn't grip the cable and spun.
The cable is trash and the collet turned color from the heat.
Once again TFL ignores my requests for help.

[Panther6834]

I had been away from RC boating for health issues. I ran the twin Cheetah last weekend and the wimpy TFL collet on the port motor couldn't grip the cable and spun.
The cable is trash and the collet turned color from the heat.
Once again TFL ignores my requests for help.

At this point, everything is long since out-of-warranty...so, in contacting them, if that correlates to the wording of your email to them (assuming you contacted them via email), that could be why they haven't responded. Granted, I've rarely had 'luck' in getting replies from Chinese companies (work the exception of one, which one makes surface RCs).

As previously mentioned/suggested (by more than one person), quit trying to get customer service through TFL, and contact Steve @ OSE. For your RC boating needs...especially when it comes to TFL boats...Steve has consistently proven himself to be one of the, if not 'the', best US-based sources. In rebuilding my TFL Jet Boat, OSE is where I sourced all but one part from.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Insaniac]

I should have followed the suggestion in my signature line to "support US hobby suppliers"...LOL!
I had also been using Nano-Tech LiPos and the batteries I just purchased new at the beginning of this November will not charge because they arrived with both 4S pack voltages below cutoff voltage of charger.

[Panther6834]

The Lipo batteries should be able to be 'revived'. However, you WILL have to keep a close eye on them during the first half of the process. The steps are simple:

First half:
1) Plug battery into charger without plugging in the balance connector.
2) Program the charger to charge the batteries as NiMH, at the lowest 'C' possible (no higher than 0.5C), properly setting the max mAh & '4S'. The lower the Amperage, the better, AND the safety. During the charging process, keep a constant eye on the batteries, as well as the charger's battery temp indicator. Accidentally overcharging the batteries this way could be dangerous...but, as long as you keep an eye in them, you should have nothing to worry about. If the temp gets too high, stop the charging to wait approx 5 minutes, and then start charging again.
3) Once the battery shows a total voltage equal to approx 3.2V/cell (for a 4S pack, that would be 12.8V), stop the charging, connect the balance plug, and check the per-cell voltage.
4) If all cells are showing at least 3.000V, or higher, you're good to move onto the second half...however, if ANY cells are still below 3.000V, disconnect the balance plug, and repeat steps 2&3 untill all cells are above 3.000V.

Assuming any cells are below 3.000V after the first time, the first time will have probably taken 3-10 minutes, depending on your charger, and depending on how low you set the charging Amperage (ie. the lower the Amperage, the longer the charging takes). Again, once all cells are above 3.000V, move onto the second half.

Second half:
5) With all cells finally above 3.000V, reconnect they balance plug to the charger, and program the charger to 'cycle' the battery as such: charge -> discharge -> charge. In doing this, make certain, in advance, that you have programed the charger's "discharge" setting to 3.2V/cell, preferably at 1C...and the charger's "charge" setting to the correct capacity, 4S, and no higher than 1.5C.
5a) If you're charger doesn't have a "cycle" setting, you will need to manually charge the packs, then discharge them, then charge them again.
6) I've got have cycled the batteries, you are then ready to discharge them to "storage" level up which I'm assuming you (hopefully) already know how to do. If not, read your charger's owner's manual.

When you're ready to use the batteries (ie. after the other 'problems' are solved), charge them as you normally would, and run the boat until LVC kicks in. But, before running the boat, if you haven't already done so, I'd recommend changing the ESC's programming - instead of having the LVCC set to 'auto', you should set it to match the packs being used. For all my ESCs...land & water...I NEVER leave them set for 'auto'. I ALWAYS program them to match what will be used - 2S for 2S, 4S for 4S, etc...and 3.2V for boats & 3.4V for land vehicles (of you feel safer seeing boats to 3.4V, that's ok).

After you have discharged the batteries (ie. after LVC kicks in), cycle the batteries (ie. steps 5/5a and 6) a second time, and return them to "storage" level (which should be no less than 4.75V/cell, and no higher than 3.75V/cell...I have my chargers programed for 3.80V/cell). 'Cycling' the batteries the second time should help get rid of any potential "memory loss" the picks night have incurred, and should restore them to their full potential.

Moving forward, DON'T buy cheap/low-quality batteries. Your best options are SMC, CNHL, and Gens Ace. There are other, lesser-known, brands producing top-quality LiPo packs...but, these three are known to be among the best, have among the longest life (ie. recharge cycles), are among the least likely to become 'puffy', and are labeled worn more accurate discharge ratings.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Insaniac]

Thank you very much for the suggestions! I'll keep you posted.

Update: Set my charger to NiMh and charged to 3.2 volts per cell. Was then able to charge/discharge and balance both 4S packs.
Thanks!

[Panther6834]

Update: Set my charger to NiMh and charged to 3.2 volts per cell. Was then able to charge/discharge and balance both 4S packs.
Thanks!

Glad to hear it worked for you (tho, I was 99% certain it would, if you tried, which you did). Just remember to cycle them again after using them the first time...and, them, put them to 'storage' level before around them.

Speaking of 'storage' level, another tip is to go through ALL of your LiPo packs every 4-6 months, and check their levels. If they're in the 3.0-3.4V/cell range, do a partial-cycle (ie. 'discharge', then 'charge', then 'storage'...or 'charge', then 'discharge', then 'storage). If they're in the 3.4-3.7V/cell range, just charge them back to 'storage' level. Obviously, with more frequently-used packs, you can do it less frequently (say, every 6-9 months).

Don't do what I accidentally did (granted, is was after moving 11 months ago, and I still haven't gone through all my boxes) - I had 2 ammo cans (my usual method of storing), plus 3 boxes (only done this way because of moving...I've since picked up 3 more .50cal ammo cans) of batteries, almost all of which I hadn't checked in over a year. Sadly, several have been found below 3.0V/cell, big I was able to revive them. Worse, I've (so far) found 4 hard-case packs that were "puffy", and had to be disposed of. I still have 1 box (the largest one), and 1 ammo can, to go through...hopefully, not too many others will need to be disposed of. The reason I mention this situation is to stress HOW important it is to check the physical condition, as well as the per-cell voltage of LiPo packs on a somewhat frequent basis. "Reviving" them is a fairly simple process...even though there can potentially be a slight 'danger' during the first half of the process...but, it's the packs that can become "puffy" that you REALLY have to be on the lookout for.

I won't go into how to properly dispose of LiPo packs. For that, search YouTube, as there are several videos on the subject. While all of them will present (mostly) the same things to be on the lookout for, as well as the same 'warnings', different people will present different ways of properly disposing them...partly because they have their own 'preferred' method, and partly because they can be from different countries with different laws related to disposal of batteries.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Insaniac]

Thanks for the additional information. I usually check my LiPo's in the winter offseason. I store them in small metal tool boxes in a full size metal storage cabinet so if there is a fire it won't spread.
I trust you removed the rubber gaskets from those ammo cans!

[Panther6834]

I trust you removed the rubber gaskets from those ammo cans!

Definitely. I remove the gasket, cut off the front part of it, and then reinstall that front piece. Removing the sides & back allows for the needed 'breathing', and preventing the ammo can from exploding (if there's a fire)...leaving the front on allowed the lid latch to be properly closed/?locked", so that the cam doesn't just open when I go to pick it up from the lid handle.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Insaniac]

Update

[QUOTE=Insaniac;771437]I had been away from RC boating for health issues. I ran the twin Cheetah last weekend and the wimpy TFL collet on the port motor couldn't grip the cable and spun.
The cable is trash and the collet turned color from the heat.
Once again TFL ignores my requests for help.

UPDATE:
TFL NA called today after I ordered a new collet. They saw my last email and will send me a new collet at no charge. Which is great because I bought the boat several years ago but never ran it until this November due to family heath issues.

[Notoriousone]

Better to order a OSE branded collet from Steve here on this site and use that instead of the TFL collet.. I have replaced many stock collets that broke with these, and never had any issues with them, even on strong 8s setups. I think now I have 5 boats running these collets, they come in all different sizes.
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-81518

[Insaniac]

I would but OSE is out of stock of the reversed coupler.
I'll have to use a TFL for now.