Whos making these wire drive coupling systems?

[RaceMechaniX]

Correct Hubert,

The nice design about Franz's collets is you can choose what quality and size ER11 insert you want to pay for. You can buy a metric and English set off eBay for $20 a set or pay $45 for a single super precision collet. You can run a 2.5mm wire or 3mm wire with a simple change of the collet. I have measured these collets with about 1-3 thou of total runout on the wire exiting the collet. This is perfectly acceptable for 99% of applications. The single piece couplers we machined are less than a thou total runout measured at the wire.

Here is a pic of one of Franz's couplers in a sport hydro with an outrunner at the Munich SAW's.

IMG_9976.jpg

-Tyler

[eXoNerated]

Correct Hubert,

The nice design about Franz's collets is you can choose what quality and size ER11 insert you want to pay for. You can buy a metric and English set off eBay for $20 a set or pay $45 for a single super precision collet. You can run a 2.5mm wire or 3mm wire with a simple change of the collet. I have measured these collets with about 1-3 thou of total runout on the wire exiting the collet. This is perfectly acceptable for 99% of applications. The single piece couplers we machined are less than a thou total runout measured at the wire.

Here is a pic of one of Franz's couplers in a sport hydro with an outrunner at the Munich SAW's.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]169669[/ATTACH]

-Tyler

Nice! I see the kontronics pyro, a very good expen$ive outrunner. The photo made google when I wound one several years ago.
It is 12 slots and 14 pole for very high torque.

Your TIR's are probably better taken using a precision dowel or ground shaft.The extruded wire brings it own level of deformation.I understand doing the wire is more of an "empirical"measurement considering the transmission is not a ground shaft or precision dowel. If your compression leaf split bore design was bored all from one side starting with the large bore without removing the work piece It will likely have a lower TIR than the mill collets


Regards,
Hubert

[RaceMechaniX]

The runout and more importantly the vibration and friction are near non-existent when I ramp speed up. Sometime I will take a video to show the smooth run up and down. It's a PIA trying to perfectly align a wire drive to strut with minimal friction. Get it wrong and the wire will wad up in a hurry usually at high speed leading to a nasty stuff and carnage. Get it right and the wire will last a long time and hopefully get those couple MPH.

Speaking of outrunners, I collected these for future projects. Of the few people that have the Scorpion 7050 I have not heard good things.
The LMT TorqStar should be fun in a big mono on 14S.

IMG_9583.jpgIMG_9579R.jpg

[eXoNerated]

There is no comparison between the two. The Torqstar is a pure powerhouse and needs no rewinding. So many good things about it's design. The Scorpion is under filled an could be improved significantly with the right wind. Its a bundle in hand wild winding and it benefits of better fill, cooling, and matching phase inductance with a neat orthocyclic lay. Once rewound it is def no slouch, its big enough for the titanic, but through the Lehner eyes I don't think you will find it fair. For those outrunners the pro "drone" drives will do much better at high rpms with the fast 32bit f3 processing speeds. They can do 750,000 erpms. I really did not intend on much but a bronze bushing or needle bearing in the strut. James did several pillows of hard bronze in the box. If I run the shaft straight I don't have to contend with the radial load of the sprung wire. Possible you could just run the polished wire in a box one size up with machine oil. It worked on my small boats. Do you have photos the BB strut set up?

[eXoNerated]

Note that the Torqstar as big as it is can still turn 20K. Christian has sent a gift. 124mm lamination in its design. Basically I can build a 124mm version of it's stator. For fun here's a 7050 rewound in 2.588 mm 200C wire! Wound by a Chinese American Urologist. Think it will sink amps. Running to high an rpm with such conductors is asking for skin effect losses, but at lower fundamental drive frequencies this thing will sink AMPS. This is motor winding class. Some might think it think its easy....try it.


Regards
Hubert

[eXoNerated]

You will have to get with me and we will make that 7050 a true beast. This is one of my Nue outrunner in 3 special turns. Still in testing. It will be cooled by ferrofluid. It is a 24 slot 22 pole. U need commutation speed. U see the multiple stranding would eliminate skin effect losses. 1 turn in 10 AWG and 2 turns in 12 AWG. Your 5035 would make great 1/6 scale power. Build one Tyler.

[RaceMechaniX]

Hello Hubert,

I am not into scale boats or tunnel hulls so unlikely I will build one. If I did build a scale it would need to be legal in both IMPBA and NAMBA. This means a 40mm Neu motor for NAMBA and a 44mm LMT for IMPBA.

Here are some BB struts I have machined over the years. Leaded Teflon bushings also work fine especially for flex cables.
Couplers.jpgP1040143.jpgIMG_4022.jpg

[eXoNerated]

What a money shot. Beautiful work Tyler. Tell me more about the prop shaft and ferrule here. Hows the wire attached?

Regards
Hubert

[RaceMechaniX]

The stub shaft is centerless precision ground stainless steel tube with a hole matched to the wire diameter size. The wire extends all the way through the stub shaft and is bonded using Loctite 238. The drive dog and nose piece are just secured with set-screws.

[fweasel]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]169682[/ATTACH]

Tyler did you machine all of this hardware?

[eXoNerated]

The stub shaft is centerless precision ground stainless steel tube with a hole matched to the wire diameter size. The wire extends all the way through the stub shaft and is bonded using Loctite 238. The drive dog and nose piece are just secured with set-screws.

Tyler,
Is the stub shaft something you made centerless ? or where you able to find 3/16 od 1/8 id for instance. What is the abec and speed rating of the bearings you are using and what type. Are they sealed . Are they full steel or are you running ceramic balls. Do you have to service them?

[RaceMechaniX]

Tyler did you machine all of this hardware?

This particular hardware no. This is borrowed from the the Grim Reaper gas rigger.
Most hardware I modify for my use.
Below is an example of hardware I matched together. The strut blade is from Speedmaster modified for ball bearings. I machined the strudder bracket to hold a CMDi rudder swivel.

DSC_6227.jpgDSC_5638.jpgDSC_5640.jpg

[RaceMechaniX]

Tyler,
Is the stub shaft something you made centerless ? or where you able to find 3/16 od 1/8 id for instance. What is the abec and speed rating of the bearings you are using and what type. Are they sealed . Are they full steel or are you running ceramic balls. Do you have to service them?

The stub shaft material was sourced in Germany. It's a 5mm OD by 2.5mm ID by 1m long. It's cut down to the correct length, turned down to hold a 3/16" drive dog and prop.
The bearings are metric ABEC 5 stainless steel with stainless shields. They are lubed every run and replaced every event or every run depending on their condition.
I have tested ceramic balls with stainless races and full ceramic bearings. The full stainless design lasts the longest and is considered a throw away consumable for SAW.

[eXoNerated]

I guess people would wanna know where the hardware came from. It is quite attractive and stout. Is it available to the masses?


Regards
Hubert

[RaceMechaniX]

I guess people would wanna know where the hardware came from. It is quite attractive and stout. Is it available to the masses?


Regards
Hubert

Generally speaking no it's not. The hardware was machined in limited numbers to go along with the Grim Reaper Rigger.