Water jacket stuck on motor...

[MarkF]

All good post.

[animigan]

spray it up with WD 40 let just the water jacket rest on a vice edge in a way your not going to chew it up ,, upright with the jaws open just enough to catch the water jacket and let the motor fall threw motor shaft side down tap the motor body not the shaft with a plastic hammer go back and forth on all sides of the housing never seen this not work

Yes, I will have to try this next. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. I've filled the water jacket with oil, let it soak, heated the jacket nice and hot with a hair dryer (hard not to also heat the motor) and it just wont budge. Going on 3 days of trying so far. It's like it's fused in place. Both water outlet/inlets snapped off, which is also annoying.

I'd attach a picture, but I'm not sure how it would help, and the upload function doesn't seem to be working...

[rol243]

maybe if you give up how about a cut off wheel on the dremmel, for the cost of a new jacket and no more stress its worth the dollars.

[785boats]

What I do to crack a seal on a water jacket that has been on a motor for a long time is lube it up both inside the jacket & the outside of the motor.
Put some jaw protectors in the vice, & open the vice so that one jaw is on the motor & the other is on the edge of the jacket. Then close the vice a tad until the jacket moves.
Then rotate the motor 180 degrees & squeeze a bit more. Keep doing that until it is flush with the face of the motor.
Once the jacket has moved to flush with the face of the motor, proceed with placing the end of the shaft on the bench & pushing down on the jacket.
m_003.jpg

m_002.jpg

[fweasel]

I've used a similar approach to 785, but with oversized sockets used as press adapters.

[properchopper]

Works Every Time

Just reach into your parts draw & pull out an early Harley transmission clutch hub/ mainshaft nut, anchor the motor over a spark plug socket, slide the nut over the motor so that it contacts the water jacket. Lube generously , Hammer around the nut (use a drift to help the accuracy of the "taps") The degree of success depends on your degree of enthusiasm with the "taps".

Jacket 20190823_132501_resized (1).jpg

Posts 15 & 19 are the easiest & simplest (especially if you only have two hands)

[animigan]

Just reach into your parts draw & pull out an early Harley transmission clutch hub/ mainshaft nut, anchor the motor over a spark plug socket, slide the nut over the motor so that it contacts the water jacket. Lube generously , Hammer around the nut (use a drift to help the accuracy of the "taps") The degree of success depends on your degree of enthusiasm with the "taps".

[ATTACH=CONFIG]166358[/ATTACH]

Posts 15 & 19 are the easiest & simplest (especially if you only have two hands)

These are all great, and entertaining, suggestions.
Sadly, nothing is working. But here's the thing - the jacket is on, just a touch beyond being flush with the motor. And it fits in my mount. And the boat. I'm assuming that it doesn't matter that it is completely biased to the shaft end of the motor. Any reason I shouldn't run it like that?

Thanks again everyone.

[785boats]

There's no reason that you can't run it like that.
But be sure to do a water pressure test on the can first, before you install it, to check for leaks.
You may have split an O ring or rolled one out of its groove. That may even be the reason that it is so hard to move the can in the first place.

[rol243]

Yes, it doesn,t take much to roll an o-ring when fitting the jacket to motor can.

[animigan]

There's no reason that you can't run it like that.
But be sure to do a water pressure test on the can first, before you install it, to check for leaks.
You may have split an O ring or rolled one out of its groove. That may even be the reason that it is so hard to move the can in the first place.

Good advice - any way to properly look for leaks? Are people using pumps or something? I just blocked the exit flow and forced as much pressure (using my mouth on the tubing) through the jacket...

[785boats]

That should be enough to spot any leaks as long as you fill the can with water first.
I use a large syringe to fill the can & then block the exit while keeping pressure on the syringe.

[properchopper]

Why not check the whole system while you're at it. Nothing spoils a day at the lake worse than when an internal leak somewhere along the cooling path fills the boat up and down she goes ( because you decided to do that "one test run" before adding the flotation ).

Diver Down

rig one of these up

water best 20190824_143639_resized.jpg

[rol243]

use your mouth. the water jacket doesn,t hold much water atall as so the lines so just take a drink of water and let it out via the water line until water comes out the overflow end then block it and blow harder. you don,t need to over compress the watercooling as when the boat is running , the water is free flowing and not really under any pressures.

[animigan]

20190921_200136.jpg

Well, after about 10 runs of 3 min or less, temps seem reasonable (nothing too hot to touch) with the water jacket in that weird position...

[Greg Schweers]

If you have a drill press with a vice put a 1/2" socket in the chuck space the vice to hold the motor and push the cooler off