will this combo work out mathmaticaly

[StevenBryant]

From the data posted your run tim is way too high for your setup, try and cut your run time down considerably and you will see your temps drops


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Speed3]

I notice something else from the datalog.

Looking at the current in the first 62 seconds the graph illustrates that the peak amps was significantly lower than later in the run. The rpm was alot higher in the early parts too.

Something happen later in the run that caused the amps to increase significantly. As a result the motor rpm fell off significantly.

I think what happen later on is the reason the motor connector got so hot.

[Crash]

I notice something else from the datalog.

Looking at the current in the first 62 seconds the graph illustrates that the peak amps was significantly lower than later in the run. The rpm was alot higher in the early parts too.

Something happen later in the run that caused the amps to increase significantly. As a result the motor rpm fell off significantly.

I think what happen later on is the reason the motor connector got so hot.

I probably switched props.


does anyone know how the Data logger works? does it reset it self every time you hook up the ESC?

[CraigP]

You can reset data from its application, or keep recording on different runs but it will wrap around when it gets to the end of the data...

[Crash]

You can reset data from its application, or keep recording on different runs but it will wrap around when it gets to the end of the data...

thank you

[madmikepags]

You can throw all the numbers you want at a setup, X457 X646 50c 70c 6000watts 5000 watts 2000kv 300 amp this 22 volts that etc etc etc, but until you learn how to set your boat up to run properly you are gonna have problems. Not once in all these posts have you said what ur strut depth is vs your prop size, your CG or if the boat is running wet or dry? and weather or not you've sanded scuffed or blueprinted the bottom of the hull. I have taken poor running boats and with a couple turns on a few screws a sanding block and a straight edge turned them into winning boats. Also prop tech has a lot to do with speed, amp draw, heat runtime etc. For example my daughter did a science project. She took 6 of my 455/3 blade props, (all modified) none of them looked alike and none performed alike. She described the changes made to each prop and what each change made each prop do. (BTW The project got an A and she won her science fair). What I'm basically saying is learn your boat, try different things and see what they make your boat do. Try batts forward, try em back, try diff strut heights or angles, mess w the trim tabs, try diff props, and keep a notebook of what you did. My first real boat was an Aeromarine Titan 29, I must have run that thing 6-700 times and changed stuff every run, and have a notebook prob w 50-60 pages of info that I jotted down after every run. With just hull tuning I was able to go from 41 to 48 mph. That is almost a 20% increase in speed without changing motor battery or prop. There's plenty of speed secrets out there without having to change your whole setup

[Crash]

You can throw all the numbers you want at a setup, X457 X646 50c 70c 6000watts 5000 watts 2000kv 300 amp this 22 volts that etc etc etc, but until you learn how to set your boat up to run properly you are gonna have problems. Not once in all these posts have you said what ur strut depth is vs your prop size, your CG or if the boat is running wet or dry? and weather or not you've sanded scuffed or blueprinted the bottom of the hull. I have taken poor running boats and with a couple turns on a few screws a sanding block and a straight edge turned them into winning boats. Also prop tech has a lot to do with speed, amp draw, heat runtime etc. For example my daughter did a science project. She took 6 of my 455/3 blade props, (all modified) none of them looked alike and none performed alike. She described the changes made to each prop and what each change made each prop do. (BTW The project got an A and she won her science fair). What I'm basically saying is learn your boat, try different things and see what they make your boat do. Try batts forward, try em back, try diff strut heights or angles, mess w the trim tabs, try diff props, and keep a notebook of what you did. My first real boat was an Aeromarine Titan 29, I must have run that thing 6-700 times and changed stuff every run, and have a notebook prob w 50-60 pages of info that I jotted down after every run. With just hull tuning I was able to go from 41 to 48 mph. That is almost a 20% increase in speed without changing motor battery or prop. There's plenty of speed secrets out there without having to change your whole setup

Boat is set up by proboat.
Yes I have tried different settings on strut and lipo.

[Crash]

thanks to everyone here at OSE
I did get the boat set up pretty good . It is a combination of everything mentioned that got me from 42mph to 62 mph with all the same equipment by most means of the word.

The weak point is the batteries so, I am taking a idea from this thread and going parallel with the lipos.
also, because I own the 1750 KV already , I went with 5s
that puts motor rpm in the 29 to 30k area under load

[Crash]

Received mu 5S lipos and got a couple runs in.
The boat loves this set up now.
Thanks again to you all.

This is the final set up: TP Power 4060 3y 1750 kv
5S Admiral Pro 4000mah 60C x2 running Parallel
Swordfish X 220 amp (300 burst) ESC
CNC OSE 2 blade 55mm x 1.6"

results: 249 max amp draw
35 C max temp on ESC
rpm 32k under load
64 mph today into the wind

[HTVboats]

I run that TP 3Y on 6S in a DF 39" mono. with an X447/3 it runs low 60's and pulls 180-210amps on the MGM25035 data logger. (6 lap setup) To go 70 you will need an X450 or 452 (or ABC 1816 ,1817 to 1915) and your amps will be well over 200. A T180 will fry at some point pushing that load. I have 2 T180's that cut out no matter what I do, eliminate BEC and LV cutoff. Your SF 220 hopefully will hold up. Like Mike Paggs I keep a note book and try many prop and trim combinations.
Mic

[Speed3]

Great to hear your improvements. So you turning a bigger prop, reving higher and using a cell less. That is progress.

That confirm that you was not getting nowhere near full potential on 6s previously.

[Crash]

clocked 68 mph on gps

I had to push it beyond the handleing set up that day and I knew it but, I pushed it past the point where it lost contact with the water and ….. you know the rest.

after its short flight upside down threw the air which seemed to be in slow motion...…………………………………†¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â €¦.@#$^*((**(*&^%$#!!!!

after retrieving it from the pond upside down I took it back to shop with what I knew was a damaged hull but, also the ESC got too wet and shorted out.

The hull is certainly salvageable and actually still driveable for the season.

Only gOod thing is NEW ESC is on order from OSE and can not wait.

I went over kill for the simple reason the 300 amp SF X is only 60 bucks more then the SF 240 that I was going to buy.

yes, Swordfish 300 X

[Crash]

These are rated at 200amp continuous, if you are pulling more than that they will heat up quickly, try 8mm castles and see if that helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought all new 8mm castle connectors. ty

[Crash]

YIKES its huge
And goergous

It fits for mock up.
Tomarrow I will solder up connectors
0908181703.jpg
OSE carbon mount
0908181703b.jpg

[Prodrvr]

I got data recorder to work.
You have to run the program as Administrator and then it works .
I found a post here at OSE about it.

the data record says I am pulling 255 amps at 100% throttle
lipos are dropping down to 19.6 during 100% throttle
temps are 150f max
rpm is 30k+ at 100% throttle

it seems the amp draw is too high...what do you guys think

255A is the max that esc will record. It's pulling more than that in bursts.