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The installation looks good enough. Just two things, the prop must be razor sharp, sharpened from the backside, not the thrust side. If you have removed material from the thrust face, then they will cavitation badly. Been there, done that. Also, I couldn’t make the TP motor work well at all on voltage higher than 4s. If you have another motor to try, do that.
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What wind is your motor "Y" or a "D"
Is the speed control programed to match the motor?
LarryPast NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & WetComment
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what is your timing set at??
What is exactly your setup right now.
HULL - type, material, and length.
Motor - size. KV, Y or D wind?
ESC- type and size - is it programed to match the motor?
6S- 8S ??? - one or two p , make ,C rating , max C rating. mAP rating.
Prop - make, size, modifications,?????
Each one the above questions will make a difference for a balanced system.
LarryLast edited by TRUCKPULL; 08-17-2018, 10:37 PM.Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & WetComment
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Your tp motor leads got that to 189f because the soldering was purely done. It should be cool with that setup.
You are losing alot of power because of it.
I use lead tin solder with flux and solder over fire for my motor connectors. When I solder even d wind motors run cool at 15 degree timing. I don't run circuit though so I expect some running circuit to run hot. But my connectors does feel the same after I come in as before I went out.
When your connectors are cool that's a sign you are getting full power. Also I think your batteries are falling off too hard. Or maybe the cells are not that good in the first place.
I does measure the internal resistance of my batteries. That is check for voltage loss at a known load ampage. The best pack I have is a smc 5400 90c 4s.
It measures .005 ohms total for a 4s. That translate to 1.25 voltage drop at 250 amps. For 6s in those cells the internal resistance would be .0075 total or 1.875 voltage drop at 250 amps.
So if you start off at let's say 25volts for the 6s the voltage would drop to 23.125v initially at 250 amps. And you posted that your volts was 19.6v that's a big difference.
And if you get it setup right the speed gain will have you amazed. That tp will unleash so power I wonder if the drive will take it.
I have a tp 4060 1950kv I tried it on 5s one time I couldn't get a good run with my revolt. I was using an ose upgraded shaft for the revolt and an octura collet coupler. Well the power was so insane, no matter how tight I tighten the couple when I squeeze the shaft would slip. Too much power. Well it kill the shaft that same day an upgraded shaft.
My I have the same problem with the leopard 4092 but the tp 4060 is a little more powerful than the leopard 4092 but you will never know about this kind of power without proper batteries and a proper solder connection across all points.
One more thing the solder should flow through all the end of the wire like how flux can flow through it should look like silver water through the wire. Before you let it dry.Comment
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You need a 60W iron with at least a 1/4” chisel solder bit to get enough heat to fully penetrate all wire strands. Soldering flux is also very helpful, get it at Lowe’s or similar.
But this is still a sign that you are flowing a massive amount of current. I’ll say it again, that TP motor is probably going into saturation.Comment
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Time to upgrade your connectors, I use Lehner 6mm 400amp connectors and castle 8mm 300amp connectors on most of my setups, I used to have the same problem as you until I upgraded
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so, I went back and resoldered all the conections.
the motor wires are still getting hot 198 F todayComment
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