Twin XLX Zonda what TP Motor and props ????

[MarkF]

Wow where do you guys get your numbers from. I run a TP 4070 1520 KV motor in a 6s rigger and a 2215 prop and the boat does 80 mph for 2 to 3 minutes. And pulls close to 300 amps. What do you think your high KV motors are going to pull on 6s. In a boat this size I wouldn't run anything smaller than the 4070 and keep the kv from 1350 to 1520 and you will get good speed and runtime. 700 to 2000 for 6s is a no no for sport running. Those are Kvs for saw running. Listen to native Paul here.

Mark

[Speedfreek]

Wow where do you guys get your numbers from. I run a TP 4070 1520 KV motor in a 6s rigger and a 2215 prop and the boat does 80 mph for 2 to 3 minutes. And pulls close to 300 amps. What do you think you high KV motors are going to pull on 6s. In a boat this size I wouldn't run anything smaller than the 4070 and keep the kv from 1350 or 1520 and you will get good speed and runtime. !700 to to 2000 for 6s is a non no for sport running. Those are Kvs for saw running. Listen to native Paul here.

Mark

That's exactly what the TP Guy said to me " Verry popular in Thailand " he said

[Speedfreek]

Wow where do you guys get your numbers from. I run a TP 4070 1520 KV motor in a 6s rigger and a 2215 prop and the boat does 80 mph for 2 to 3 minutes. And pulls close to 300 amps. What do you think your high KV motors are going to pull on 6s. In a boat this size I wouldn't run anything smaller than the 4070 and keep the kv from 1350 to 1520 and you will get good speed and runtime. 700 to 2000 for 6s is a no no for sport running. Those are Kvs for saw running. Listen to native Paul here.

Mark

I changed my order to what you have, makes sense, thank you very much for coming in just in time to change my order i really appreciate it

[Old School]

I feel that there is a big difference between a rigger and a 41" relatively heavy catamaran. What works for one does not necessarily translate to the other. The OP wanted a SAW running hull but with sport running runtime. The two are diametrically opposed. SAW running by definition has everything operating to the extreme while sport running is at a relatively detuned level of maximum operating limits. It is not just kv that determines outright speed. A high kv motor will require a relatively smaller sized propellor to keep amperage draw within limits and conversely a lower kv motor will allow a larger propellor to be used, the size depending on planned amperage draw. Buying just one motor to do multiple tasks is merely a stop gap measure as outright speed will require a lot of research comparing kv with prop size with amperage draw.

A high kv motor running for a few seconds is possible to achieve a specific aim, however, one must have a thick wallet if this is the ultimate aim as something is going to fail. It is not only the motor that may fail but highly likely the ESC as well as the batteries, not discounting actual mechanical failure such as a prop throwing a blade or a shaft disintegrating. An analogy for me is the difference between drag racing a 1/4 mile strip or a 500 mile endurance race. The vehicle must be designed for the intended purpose.

Those that have achieved the magical high speeds have been in the hobby for a long time building up their experiences over many years to achieve these figures. I highly doubt an operator with minimal experience will accidentally achieve a high figure. It is not just the boat that attains the speed but the person with the transmitter reading the conditions and keeping his nerve. My comments are general and not aimed at specific individuals.

[rol243]

I have found over my 40 years of r/c experience that in the earlier days many guys that set up there boats for straight line speed [ saw ] spent hours and hours getting there model to perform and stay on the water before it was ready for a crack of saw. anyone can have a quick boat these days if they spend the dollars on the good gear including the hull but and i say but, it still takes alot of test and tune to get that speed record . I was lucky to obtain an Australian saw record some 20 years back but this record only lasted about a week as another member of the ampba knocked mine off the list . Its great fun to do fast straight line runs if you have the water for this , so anyone wanting to set up there hulls with big motors etc etc should have a go i say. we are now seeing near stock hulls hitting 80 mph compared to yesteryear where we were lucky to see 40 mph with modified set ups.

[Speedfreek]

Thanks for everyone's input, i appreciate it and MarkF comment just confirmed what i was told by the TP dealer, this is a large ish boat and will serve well with the extra weight of the 4070, that being said i am a fast learner and i have learned a lot from this forum and past experiences with Nitro boats.
i will keep updates of the set up, at the moment i am running 64.6 mph too slow for me

https://youtu.be/JcfDWQYG9bg

[MarkF]

Good to hear you changed your order.A 4070 has more torque allowing to run different props and get the best of both worlds. If you were running a single motor I would have suggested a 1250kv but with twins, you can add more kv since the motors help each other. So what kv did you get. If you got the 1520 like I have, you can make that boat a 60mph boat with great runtime or a 90 mph boat for 3 or 4 passes. It's all in the props. I would suggest counter rotating 447s for long runtime and ABC 2216s for sheer speed. But whatever props you get, get counter rotating. And don't forget to get CR flex shafts to. Welcome to the world of twins.

Mark

[Speedfreek]

Good to hear you changed your order.A 4070 has more torque allowing to run different props and get the best of both worlds. If you were running a single motor I would have suggested a 1250kv but with twins, you can add more kv since the motors help each other. So what kv did you get. If you got the 1520 like I have, you can make that boat a 60mph boat with great runtime or a 90 mph boat for 3 or 4 passes. It's all in the props. I would suggest counter rotating 447s for long runtime and ABC 2216s for sheer speed. But whatever props you get, get counter rotating. And don't forget to get CR flex shafts to. Welcome to the world of twins.

Mark

Thanks Mark , 4070 can 1520kV, cheers, that is exactly what i wanted best of both worlds with the change of the props perfect
All ready have the shafts ready to go , excellent advice .
Ps i will pm you if i get stuck on something

[Speedfreek]

Updated on what's going on
First the silicone conformal coating of the XLX 3X layers this stuff is carcinogenic so use a respirator.
I was going to change the capacitors but it will be ok for 6S if it was 8S then i would have changed them out.
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And the heat sink, working progress, no cnc here (old school) grinder to get the most of the cooling fins then hand file .
The three point's of contact i think on each side will be ample amount of cooling.
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The thermal paste will take up any low or high spots for the 10x10 aluminum water cooling block (Idea from a member here ).

[Speedfreek]

Ok here is another question, i have two cables for the ESC.
One is the RX which goes to throttle, chanel 2 on the reciver.
Then i have the AUX wire which goes to a spear channel, in my case it's channel 3.
Here is the question because i am running two XLX's can i plug two of the AUX wire to a Y connector to my channel 3 on the RX ?
I am getting a Opto board form a member here to hook up the two ESC's into one for the RX, but not sure on the AUX side ?
I assume this is for the data loging side of things.

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[MarkF]

I don't know anybody that uses the aux wire. I would check with castle and see what it's for. You use a simple Y to connect both esc into one channel. If the esc has a bec then disconnect one of the red wires. You don't need both becs connected into one.

Mark

[CraigP]

The Aux wire is to control a motor parameter dynamically, thru another rec channel. The manual declares, in multiple spots, this it needs to be connected to a rec channel in order for the ESC to fully enable itself. I don’t use this Esc, so I’m not certain if those statements in the manual are indeed accurate.

[Speedfreek]

I don't know anybody that uses the aux wire. I would check with castle and see what it's for. You use a simple Y to connect both esc into one channel. If the esc has a bec then disconnect one of the red wires. You don't need both becs connected into one.

Mark

Thanks Mark

[Speedfreek]

The Aux wire is to control a motor parameter dynamically, thru another rec channel. The manual declares, in multiple spots, this it needs to be connected to a rec channel in order for the ESC to fully enable itself. I don’t use this Esc, so I’m not certain if those statements in the manual are indeed accurate.

Yes correct, not game to not use it not connected on the XLX, everything is expensive to bring over here to Australia . [ATTACH=CONFIG]158891 1524802894255298352070.jpg

[Speedfreek]

Got the Aluminum cooling blocks cut and centre punched ready for the water cooling tube nipples ,
Waiting for them to arrive so i can centre drill them and tap the thread
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And my new motors have arrived

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Drilled and tapped
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Just waiting for my other XLX to arrive to get the same treatment as this one .
Plugged it into the laptop and adjusted the parameters ready to go, might need to adjust rotation of motor only if needed.