you must silver solder the flex to the solid shaft but this has to be done with precision otherwise it will break prematurely and or cause bad vibrations. might be safer to buy the flex shaft ready to go.
you can not use locktite or any other glue type to connect a flex shaft to a solid shaft , as mentioned this work must be done via high strength silver solder and preferably done in a lath for correct trueing.
Alignment is critical. Has to be jigged up to get it right. Needs to be trued on a jig grinder or lathe. When these things part, massive damage to the hull can result. Think about that work detail....
I respect that! It would just make me nervous.. in the end, it's just what you feel good about! It depends on your tools too... most don't have access to machine shop tools. For me, glueing is a no-brained when you have a counter bore in the prop shaft. I'm just nervous about a butt-to-butt splice
Alignment is critical. Has to be jigged up to get it right. Needs to be trued on a jig grinder or lathe. When these things part, massive damage to the hull can result. Think about that work detail....
I find the parts fit together pretty well. So I haven't found alignment to be any big deal. But I always check it out.
Actually for the 3/16-3/16 you undo the outer wrap and insert the inner wind into the stub shaft, then braze/weld that. I'm sure silver solder would work for this but may have its limits.
Nothing wrong with flexes being bonded if done correctly, needs correct tolerance between the hole on the stub & the o/d of the flex. It also must be cleaned on the flex & inside the hole in the stub, you can use either Loctite 603 or 648. It is most important that whatever brand Loctite or permatex you use must be high strength retainer type. I have made dozens of flex shafts including wire drives using Loctite 603 & never had a failure, if done correctly the flex itself will break before the bonded joint lets go.
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