Prop Shaft to Cable ?

[martin]

Just like to add Loctite has a 2 year shelf life from manufacture date that is printed on the bottom of the bottle. You have to be carefull when buying as some places may have had their stock sitting on the shelf for some time. I have used it long past it use by date before also with no failures but Loctite say 2 years or the product might not meet their specs.

[rayray9]

Sorry for the high jack but what about separating an OSE cable shaft assembly?
Need to shorten the prop shaft - too long.
Torch, soldering iron, string on door knob?

[CraigP]

Be careful, high heat could produce some dangerous fumes.. That stuff has nasty ingredients.

[rayray9]

Good ventilation in the lab, torch it is then? Propane, butane, or MAPP?
How much heat needed to break the joint but not to compromise the flex cable?

[danielplace1962]

The gluing method works fine for making cable that fit in hollow shafts as long as it has the deep pocket and is made for this purpose. Personally I have found Stay Brite silver solder to be almost as easy but a lot easier if you want the cable out again. The glue often will not release even with high temperature applied. By the time you get it out the shaft is shot. Silver bearing solder is strong and simply heat it up and put it out if/when you need. If you aren't worried about that and figure if the cable is shot so is the shaft and just replace it all if it isn't in the lake already anyhow then gluing might be the answer.

[rayray9]

Blue or red Loctite available at local car parts stores. 90-95% Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning available at local CVS or Walgreen's.
That's been my cleaning go to solution, besides Acetone

[rol243]

sorry but i can,t understand how you could use something like Locktie to hold 2 x shaft parts together that gets alot of tension applied when under load.

[dtacmed]

Just finished using the Permatex high temp sleeve retainer. Roughed up the inside of the prop shaft then cleaned with carb and parts cleaner. Put permatex inside shaft with a wooden q tip spread around. applied to flex cable inserted slowly to help force into strands. wiped off excess. within just a few minutes could not turn it at all. Was very tight fit to begin with. Obviously a lot easier than the solder method. Thanks again for all the information.

[srislash]

sorry but i can,t understand how you could use something like Locktie to hold 2 x shaft parts together that gets alot of tension applied when under load.

This is special Loctite. Quite amazing. I have 8,000 watts of power going through mine using 3/16" cable inside a 6mm shaft and I have never had one let go. Simply amazing.

[rol243]

oh , so the solid shaft is drilled out so the 3/16 flex fits inside the solid shaft and is held with the locktite . have you tried Chemi Weld ? its the 2 part epoxy type adhesive made for bonding metals.

[martin]

oh , so the solid shaft is drilled out so the 3/16 flex fits inside the solid shaft and is held with the locktite . have you tried Chemi Weld ? its the 2 part epoxy type adhesive made for bonding metals.

Even the so called welded flexes ( low tenp brazing really ) are simply not just butted, the flex still goes into a hole bored into the stubshaft just the same as if it was being glued. If for example its a 3/16" flex being joined to a 3/16" stub the outer winding on the flex is removed the depth of the hole in the stub & the inner core of the flex goes into the hole. The only part that ends up butted is where the outer wind butts to the stub.

[CraigP]

Ahh, nice explanation Martin. That makes sense, butt splices are pretty weak junction points...

[properchopper]

Sorry for the high jack but what about separating an OSE cable shaft assembly?
Need to shorten the prop shaft - too long.
Torch, soldering iron, string on door knob?

There's a few ways to deal with this :

Octura makes both a long shaft [69.5mm]

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...?prod=ose-1381

and also a shorter one [57.15mm] :

https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...?prod=ose-1381

When I had the need for a really short shaft I once considered getting a 10-32 thread cutting die and trying to thread back from the existing threaded end and trimming off the excess. The likelihood that the die would easily cut new threads on the very hardened shaft (or even that I could clamp the shaft without damaging it) kept me from trying it but :

[T.S.Davis]

In case I missed it....and for those that read these threads.

Don't be confused. Very few local stores are going to have Loctite 603 on the shelf. It's a not a thread locker. It's a "bearing sleeve retaining compound". Those are the key words. The 638 is high strength but the 603 specifically is oil tolerant. Meaning that if you don't get every little bit of oil out of the flex you can still be okay. Some regular ole' thread lock stuff you find on the shelf at the auto parts store will fail. Not might. Will fail.

Getting them straight matters too. No matter which method you use. Solder or retaining compound. Wobble kills.

[martin]

I only use Loctite 603, as said it is oil tolerant but you still need to clean the parts before assembly. The key to a straight running shaft is a close tolerance between the flex o/d & the bore of the hole along with the hole being bore exactly in the centre of the stub shaft. Loctite 603 is also intended for closer fitting tolerances than Loctite 648.