Atomic Barbwire XL Direct Motor Swap

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • rayray9
    Steve Takes My Money
    • Sep 2016
    • 98

    #1

    Atomic Barbwire XL Direct Motor Swap

    Seaking #2848 direct bolt-up, larger motor @ 3900kv, inrunner. Keep you folks posted with results, need to reset timing during this weekend run. Upgraded ESC already with 60A Seaking.
  • martin
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Aug 2010
    • 2887

    #2
    Just a heads up, the Barbwire XL with an inrunner motor will lose its self righting ability. Many have tried with fitting the heavier inrunner motors in this boat with no success. The heavier motor upsets the balance of the upturned boat + it also relies on the inertia of the spinning can of the original outrunner motor to aid selfrighting.

    Comment

    • fweasel
      master of some
      • Jul 2016
      • 4286

      #3
      Yes, what Martin said. I ran a Leopard 2850 3850kv motor in my Atomik XL. It ran high 30's and turned on a dime, but would not self right on its own. It only took a little nudge with another rescue boat to knock it over. That hull definitely requires the mass/inertia of an outrunner to flip it over. This is why I sold my and moved the upgraded gear over to a similar sized Joysway Offshore Infinity with a much larger flood chamber. It rolls over on it's own without even engaging the motor.
      Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

      Comment

      • Bp9145
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jan 2016
        • 1466

        #4
        AAAHHH. . .Ryan so you have an Offshore Infinity as well. I have two, actually had three but gave one to a kid in the neighborhood that was always helpful to me around the yard and was good to my two young boys. He always enjoyed watching me run my boats in my backyard pond. So I gave him one with lipos and a charger. . .felt good promoting the hobby. The two I have and the Super Monos are among my very favorites since I can take them with me on vacation. .lol

        Comment

        • rayray9
          Steve Takes My Money
          • Sep 2016
          • 98

          #5
          Thanks for the advice guys, fweasel - I was looking closely at the barbwire xl you had for sale. I thought the flood chamber filled, places the prop underwater just enough for torque roll to correct. Hmmm.
          I know the ProBoat Recoils (17 & 26) have the outrunner w/counter weight minus a flood chamber, thinking here

          Comment

          • martin
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2010
            • 2887

            #6
            You will find the Recoils don't only rely on the outrunner motor along with the flywheel to right them, they also use the shape of the deck & hatch to help the hull roll over. This is why they have a curved bulbous deck & hatch.

            Comment

            • rayray9
              Steve Takes My Money
              • Sep 2016
              • 98

              #7
              Like an over-inflated football? The Barbwire Xl is a completely different hull. Ordered several different motors from different sources, boat was designed with a flood chamber. I will try all motors as long as it direct bolt up, find the best suited and then mod-it-up.
              I got a (OSE) TFL Pursuit w/intergrated drive, making me nervous now.

              Comment

              • rayray9
                Steve Takes My Money
                • Sep 2016
                • 98

                #8
                Weekend try-outs.
                Should buy a lottery ticket, I was able toggle the throttle enough to self-right after the upgrade. Takes more effort than before but it is possible with this motor combination

                Going to need some advice here, the inrunner jacket seems to have an air / vapor lock. Im reading that the outlet fitting should be the highest fitting - is this correct? Getting no water through outlet fitting on this Barb. Single pickup setup, would like to swap to dual.

                Comment

                • rol243
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2017
                  • 1038

                  #9
                  yes you need to have the water inlet going to the lowest fitting on motor and the outlet coming out of the highest fitting., this way the total cooling jacket fills up with water before it exits through the outlet. if you want dual inlets for water just fit a Y connector inline on the water hose and run one hose to motor and the other to esc etc .

                  Comment

                  • rayray9
                    Steve Takes My Money
                    • Sep 2016
                    • 98

                    #10
                    Thanks

                    Comment

                    • fweasel
                      master of some
                      • Jul 2016
                      • 4286

                      #11
                      I would not recommend Y fittings in your cooling lines. There's no way to guarantee equal flow through the lines, in fact, it will simply follow the path of least resistance, potentially leaving one device under serviced. If you want more water, add an additional pick-up. I did just fine with a single rudder pick-up with enlarged passages, a slightly oversized cooling line vs. stock, and ported water fittings.

                      As for your cooling jacket, make sure you can at least blow air through it. I've read about clogged jacket fittings with sealant, metal filings, or simply just too close to the surface of the motor housing.
                      Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

                      Comment

                      • rayray9
                        Steve Takes My Money
                        • Sep 2016
                        • 98

                        #12
                        MacBook Pro breaking my nuts.
                        No Y fitting on the intake, only on the output fitting


                        Thank you FB

                        Comment

                        • rayray9
                          Steve Takes My Money
                          • Sep 2016
                          • 98

                          #13
                          Motor ripped out of stock mounts, fail indeed. Back in the lab - stock mounts = *!***!***!***!**. Dam fast boat in SAW on the water

                          Comment

                          • martin
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 2887

                            #14
                            Originally posted by rayray9
                            Motor ripped out of stock mounts, fail indeed. Back in the lab - stock mounts = *!***!***!***!**. Dam fast boat in SAW on the water
                            Was it the entire long plastic section that came away from the hull or the watercooled metal motor mount coming away from the plastic mount.

                            Comment

                            • rayray9
                              Steve Takes My Money
                              • Sep 2016
                              • 98

                              #15
                              Just the motor cooling mount, took the entire drive line out and bent the motor shaft. I upgraded the mount screws before to no avail. Back too the drawing board for this boat.

                              Comment

                              Working...