Atomic Barbwire XL Direct Motor Swap

[CraigP]

I would not recommend Y fittings in your cooling lines. There's no way to guarantee equal flow through the lines, in fact, it will simply follow the path of least resistance, potentially leaving one device under serviced. If you want more water, add an additional pick-up. I did just fine with a single rudder pick-up with enlarged passages, a slightly oversized cooling line vs. stock, and ported water fittings.

As for your cooling jacket, make sure you can at least blow air through it. I've read about clogged jacket fittings with sealant, metal filings, or simply just too close to the surface of the motor housing.

I agree about using a Y to different components. I have Y's on my ESC. I branch to each side then combine them again on the other side. Tubing needs to be the same length and no bends. I don't like the loop flow line, one side of the ESC gets hotter than the other... I think everyone using 4s or 3s should have two water pickups. Those setups run a lot of amps!

[rayray9]

Found one bottle neck;
The original rudder pick up ABS tube outbound, way smaller ID than tubing. Drill out and epoxy 3/16 tube

[CraigP]

Didn't quite follow you there Ray.. looks like the spell checker got ya!

[rayray9]

The rudder pick up reduces the I.D.
EDIT;
Stock Barbwire XL - the plastic fitting at top of rudder strut, the barb that holds the line.
Look at it, it's a bottle neck.
Reduces the I.D. of the entire cooling system for a single pick up.

[rayray9]

Fixed (edited), alright - back to self-righting. Flood chamber or lack of, new thread new thought.
If a mod wishes to combine please do.