FYI, TP Motor news......Changes to face plate!

[Steven Vaccaro]

Check out the picture.

The Gold faceplate(on the left) is the new model called v1.
v1 is the new version.
v1 is using 4mm screws in a 4 bolt pattern.
v1 is 40.0mm which means that water jackets will also change.

The Black faceplate(on the right) is the old model called v2.
v2 is the old version.
v2 uses 3mm in a 6 bolt hole pattern.
v2 is approx 39.7mm

[Keagan-Z06]

Will this be standard across the lineup? I just ordered some TP4050s from you, are there any other changes?

[Steven Vaccaro]

Im not sure. We thought just the cm motors were changing. Ill know more soon.

[Keagan-Z06]

Crap! Well hopefully good things to come. These will be my first TP's and I'm stoked.

[Peter A]

That will need changes to mounts also to fit the new bolt size (obviously!). Could be a tad annoying if upgrading, new motor, buy new mount parts also.

[properchopper]

That will need changes to mounts also to fit the new bolt size (obviously!). Could be a tad annoying if upgrading, new motor, buy new mount parts also.

The bolt hole spacing is still the same [25mm] - worst case scenario you might have to hog out the holes originally configured for 3mm screws.

[RaceMechaniX]

The other main difference is the V1 has a three piece can (center body and two end caps), the V2 has a two piece assembly (can and front plate as one, separate end bell).
Just a word of recommendation, if you plan on supporting the wire end of the motor either will work. If you are only supporting at the collet end, opt for the older design V2 which has a one piece front end bell and motor can. The bolted three piece assembly will be more likely to loosen over time and bouncing.

TG

[properchopper]

The 4mm Gold motor versions were specifically configured for the car RC market which requested that feature - the 4070's are still available with the 3mm spacing, as should (I'll have confirmation tomorrow) the other motors. I have a 3mm mounting bolt 4070 and it's a heavy beast that, consequently, motivated me to go fairly overboard making sure it wouldn't break loose while at the ballet :

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[Peter A]

The bolt hole spacing is still the same [25mm] - worst case scenario you might have to hog out the holes originally configured for 3mm screws.

Little bit trickier with the water cooled front mount plates. Drilling out the holes is no problem but the heads won't fit. Not the end of the world, a longer screw with a flat washer will probably suffice. I don't use the cooling on these but perhaps a non cooled plate that will accommodate the new design, or make your own. I did see a post a while back on facebook of a new prototype mount being developed, and that looked like a good one. How's that coming along Steven?

[properchopper]

Little bit trickier with the water cooled front mount plates. Drilling out the holes is no problem but the heads won't fit. Not the end of the world, a longer screw with a flat washer will probably suffice. I don't use the cooling on these but perhaps a non cooled plate that will accommodate the new design, or make your own. I did see a post a while back on facebook of a new prototype mount being developed, and that looked like a good one. How's that coming along Steven?

Turn the water cooled plate around and you'll have a flush surface for the 4mm heads- I do that when I use one, coupled with the fact that I use permanent studs in my race motors to make between-heat replacing faster using nuts which are easier/faster to deal with (and they clear and seat on the flush surface)

DSC07758.JPG

[zooma]

Turn the water cooled plate around and you'll have a flush surface for the 4mm heads- I do that when I use one, coupled with the fact that I use permanent studs in my race motors to make between-heat replacing faster using nuts which are easier/faster to deal with (and they clear and seat on the flush surface)

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Studs are a great idea, thanks. Do you just use thread locker?

[properchopper]

Studs are a great idea, thanks. Do you just use thread locker?

Loctite Red

[zooma]

Loctite Red

OK. I'll have to try that.

[grsboats]

Yes I've been using studs with red loctite with no issues....just care about screwing them to avoid inside damage.Gill

[ray schrauwen]

Turn the water cooled plate around and you'll have a flush surface for the 4mm heads- I do that when I use one, coupled with the fact that I use permanent studs in my race motors to make between-heat replacing faster using nuts which are easier/faster to deal with (and they clear and seat on the flush surface)

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What length stud do you use or does it vary?

What tool do you use to tighten the nut when motor is in tight areas?

This is attractive for a hull I can use for both p-limited and p mono. Just add a tail ring support.