T-180 cutting out on 4S

[HTVboats]

I recently bought two ESC's, one here a Hobbywing and a Turnigy T-180. Both are V3 and both are cutting out at full throttle at the end of a straightaway. I have programmed the LVC from low to no protection and same results. Running a 1515-1Y in a DF 33 with an M445 on 4S. Different batteries 1P or 2P make no difference. Tried Castle and NEU motors same results. Used Hitec, Futaba and Flysky radios no change.
When it cuts the power if I blip the throttle it comes right back on to full for a short time then cuts out again. If I hold at about 90% they both work. Am I triggering a high current cutoff? Ran an MGM 280 with data logging and and I pull 140-180 amps peak. On 6S with a 1521/1900 kv it cuts out less but still does it. 150-160 amps on 6S. My older V1's work fine but the new ones seem to have a very sensitive amperage cutoff. Have run both with and without BEC, no change. Transmitters at 120% can that be a problem.
Mic

[Fluid]

These ESCs are notorious for having touchy LVCs. Disable the LVC and it should work fine. You will have to time your runs though.


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[champion221elite]

Fluid is correct about those ESC's having some touchy software. Try programming your esc for the intended voltage instead of allowing it to "auto calculate".

You might have better luck by running 6s instead of 4s. Higher voltage will draw fewer amps.

I run a Sea King 180 v2 on a Sprint Cat and had to manually set the voltage and disable to LVC to keep mine from cutting out. Its good now.

I did not see any mention of motor and esc temps. Wonder if your esc is going into a thermal protection/ over amp mode since you are getting close to its upper limit for amp draw.

[HTVboats]

Have disabled the LVC as stated above. No protection and it cuts out. I never use auto lipo and always program for the cells used. When it shuts down it comes right back on when you release the throttle and come back on.
Mic

[cybercrxt]

Mic,

How old is the 1515 1y, and does it have the soft leads, or hard stator wires?

Reason asking, if the motor is old, and has possibly gotten very hot (in SAW runs maybe?), the magnets could be weak. If it has the soft leads, the connection inside the end bell could be bad. I always go for the hard wire with Neu black can motors due to the soft wife issues.

Mike

[Lone-Wolf]

Is this a single or dual setup? If it's a single I can't help other than what has been mentioned. If this is a dual setup, personally I have had nothing but problems running two T180's in my dual 35" and 40" Cats, tried everything and no matter what only one esc gives full power/rpm/throttle...I switch them around and same thing. They don't seem to like sharing the same BEC...but it's hit and miss, some T180's work fine and others are just finicky. Under full throttle, about half way through a long pass one esc would slightly cut out and hull would veer off course and in some cases dig in and crash.

EDIT: Sorry guys, should have read the post better, obviously a single setup...but must be many out there that have had similar issues that I experienced.

[HTVboats]

Mike,
I have run 3 different motors. A Castle 1515 1Y and 1415 1Y. Plus a Neu 1515 1Y. All do the same thing. Never ran SAW's with these just laps. With my MGM ESC no problems.
Mic

[cybercrxt]

That is strange Mic as an ESC of that size should handle your setup as I use to have a very similar setup with a V1 180a controller and no issues using an m545 in the same hull. What do you have the timing set at? Have you tried adjusting that? Probably have, but figured I would ask. Mike

[Peter A]

I have had the same issue with an OSE raider 150 in my Pursuit, but only on 2P. On 1P no problem. I was wondering if it was a thermalling issue which would be strange as it will do six laps on 1P but starting cutting off to low power (like lvc) on 2P after 3 laps. More weird stuff! Same though, let go the throttle and hit it again and it would run about half a lap and repeat. I had a T-180 in the boat previous which was always rock solid.