T-180 went poof, r.i.p rivercat?

[Steven Vaccaro]

Man that was a typo. It should have read, "I wouldn't say it's your fault". Sorry about that.

This is all part of racing. If you were racing rc cars you would be wearing out tires. It's part of the game.

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[Mxkid261]

Actually now that I think about it. I'd close up the crack as good as you can. If you have to use ca glue that's fine. Then make sure it's sealed with masking tape. Put some epoxy in, maybe 10-15g and shove a couple steps of fiberglass into the epoxy. Even three strips if you want. Say about 1" wide and a tad longer than the tunnel. Then add a little more epoxy and make sure it's wetted out. You'll need a flashlight and maybe a mirror to see well enough. Tape a paint brush to a ruler or a paint stick.

Cool I will go ahead and see if I can get some strips down in there later

[Mxkid261]

Man that was a typo. It should have read, "I wouldn't say it's your fault". Sorry about that.

This is all part of racing. If you were racing rc cars you would be wearing out tires. It's part of the game.

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No worries lol the boat was setup for some high speed passes and thats about it I should have known better running it like that

[Mxkid261]

On a side note I did pick up this df 29 last week and got an inlay in it today. I'll start a build thread once I get parts and can do some more to it.

[SD Eracer]

That damage is nothing, I've seen a whole lot worse.

If that was my boat, first I would do is get rid of the smoke smell. I would have taped up all the openings and fill it with water and a half cup of Pine-sol. Cover with hatch and let soak for a few hours. Then rinse everything out, it will smell like Pine-sol forever, but way better than that smoke smell. Use a brush or sponge and some scrubbing bubbles to clean all the black soot, rinse out the hull again. Allow a couple of days for the hull to dry before repairing it.

Then repair the cracks with fiberglass or carbon cloth from the inside, glue the cracks together and cover with painters tape on the outside to prevent epoxy from seeping out. Then cut some fiberglass cloth and push it into the nose, then pour some finishing resin over it. Let it set, then remove the painters tape from the outside and then allow to fully cure.

That's about it. Put everything back together. If the 180a ESC is a Hobbyking labelled unit, they warranty it for 1 year, even it you smoke it for obvious reasons.

As for smoking an ESC, we all have done it even when we knew better. Its that red mist for more speed. You start ignoring the obvious signs that you should stop and keep going until poof. That's just part of the game, at least with anything less than Swordfish 300s.

[Fluid]

The standard FE chemical for removal of the burned ESC smell is denatured alcohol. It's available cheap at most drug stores, get the cheaper grade and use it liberally on a rag/old towel. Proven by dozens of FE boaters over at least a decade. This also helps prepare the surface for any fiberglassing you want to do.

No need to be reminded of a toilet every time you un-tape your boat.....


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[Mxkid261]

The standard FE chemical for removal of the burned ESC smell is denatured alcohol. It's available cheap at most drug stores, get the cheaper grade and use it liberally on a rag/old towel. Proven by dozens of FE boaters over at least a decade. This also helps prepare the surface for any fiberglassing you want to do.

No need to be reminded of a toilet every time you un-tape your boat.....


.

Cool thanks for the tip I will try that next time (hopefully I dont have to Lol). I soaked it for a couple days with dish soap and then pressure washed it on low pressure. I don't notice any smell now if there is any its very faint. I went ahead and fixed the front like others suggested. I also put a strip of carbon cloth on the outside over the crack (probably wasn't necessary). I painted it quick its definitely not a show boat but it gets abused so Im not concerned Lol. Any thoughts on a sf220 with castle cap bank and external bec?