T-180 went poof, r.i.p rivercat?

[Mxkid261]

Well the T-180 in my rivercat decided to go kaboom, and the pressure it developed needed to find a way out Lol. Looks like the weak point was the front deck seam. Not sure what happened this setup has alot of runs on it, although I was running some hard figure 8's which I normally don't do. Probably just was being to hard on and off the throttle for what my setup is on 6s. Can a BEC fail and take out an esc? Running a TP4060 1720kv, an M445, turnigy 5-7.5A HV UBEC


I was debating throwing the hull away and starting with something else, but if I want to try fixing this thing what would be a good process to go about with? Clamp the front together and pour some epoxy/chopped cloth in? The tips already have epoxy poured in which probably saved them from blowing open too. Any input is appreciated thanks!

[dontrinko]

if it were mine I would repair the hull. The damage does not look that bad. all imo; Don

[Steven Vaccaro]

The 4060 1720kv is a beast on 6s. It will work a 180 right to it max and over that 180 mark consistently with the right prop. I'd say it just worked until it wore out and died. It happens. Most customers are running 240 and 300 amp esc's on the larger tp motors.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Mxkid261]

The 4060 1720kv is a beast on 6s. It will work a 180 right to it max and over that 180 mark consistently with the right prop. I'd say it just worked until it wore out and died. It happens. Most customers are running 240 and 300 amp esc's on the larger tp motors.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Ya I knew it was a hot setup and I normally take it to the lake for about 10 passes or so and then bring it in. Its never been hot to the touch or went into thermal protection. It was probably mainly my fault running it like I was on my buddies pond. I will start fixing it today and look into more of an esc.

[Pedro Ramos]

sorry to see that happened, I currently have 2 of the new version and so far so good, they come with a bigger cap bank and temps are great. I run them hard but always checking my temps, no more than 135F

[Steven Vaccaro]

I wouldn't say it's your fault, just a part of going fast. Race car guys break stuff all the time. Comes with the territory.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Mxkid261]

sorry to see that happened, I currently have 2 of the new version and so far so good, they come with a bigger cap bank and temps are great. I run them hard but always checking my temps, no more than 135F

I also have another in my hydro. This was a version 3 with extra cap bank and extra cooling tube in the heat sink 8mm bullets Lol

[kfxguy]

You can repair it. Il pretty sure I put epoxy inside that seam in the tunnel along with the tips. I usually do.

Are those 5.5mm bullets? You really need to step up the size of those bullets too. That dinky little cap bank probably isn't doing much to help. The esc is right on the edge for this setup and this isn't a sport boat setup really. I run things like this maybe 2 or three passes and bring it in. I've run this same setup with even more kv but I ran it like I described. Maybe a sf220 or ideally a sf240 is what you should run

[Mxkid261]

You can repair it. Il pretty sure I put epoxy inside that seam in the tunnel along with the tips. I usually do.

Are those 5.5mm bullets? You really need to step up the size of those bullets too. That dinky little cap bank probably isn't doing much to help. The esc is right on the edge for this setup and this isn't a sport boat setup really. I run things like this maybe 2 or three passes and bring it in. I've run this same setup with even more kv but I ran it like I described. Maybe a sf220 or ideally a sf240 is what you should run

Yes 5.5 bullets for the batteries. I was going to drop some ca glue in that crack and tape it shut then sand the tips and use some glass cloth over the cracks, does that sound like a good way to go about it? Could I get away with a 220? Is the only difference between the Pro and Pro+ the data logging feature? Its quite the price jump from the 220 to 240 lol

[Mxkid261]

I would say it's your fault, just a part of going fast. Race car guys break stuff all the time. Comes with the territory.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Ya it was definitely my fault gotta pay to play right Lol

[kfxguy]

Yes 5.5 bullets for the batteries. I was going to drop some ca glue in that crack and tape it shut then sand the tips and use some glass cloth over the cracks, does that sound like a good way to go about it? Could I get away with a 220? Is the only difference between the Pro and Pro+ the data logging feature? Its quite the price jump from the 220 to 240 lol

You need to upgrade to at least 6.5mm (200 amp) bullets

The 240 is much more beefy and more durable. It's a bit bigger too. Also potted to be waterproof. It's more than 20 amps additional it'll hold up to.


See if you can close the crack and tape it so epoxy won't leak out. You could stuff a couple strips of fiberglass down in the area and pour some epoxy in. Maybe use a paint brush taped on a stick to wet it all out.

[Mxkid261]

You need to upgrade to at least 6.5mm (200 amp) bullets

The 240 is much more beefy and more durable. It's a bit bigger too. Also potted to be waterproof. It's more than 20 amps additional it'll hold up to.


See if you can close the crack and tape it so epoxy won't leak out. You could stuff a couple strips of fiberglass down in the area and pour some epoxy in. Maybe use a paint brush taped on a stick to wet it all out.

Ok sounds good so try and fix it from the inside? I can barely see down there lol

[kfxguy]

Ok sounds good so try and fix it from the inside? I can barely see down there lol

Yea. I know, you'll have to get creative lol

[boredom.is.me]

This really sucks to see, but you extracted the positive out of this situation. Now you (and all of us actually) know more about the limits of that particular setup.

As for the repair, I can't suggest much as I haven't done this type of thing. Without any guidance, I would have CA'ed and taped. After I knew the CA was good, I would have just poured small amounts of epoxy in. By breaking it up into small amounts, it would prevent a lot flowing into the tips. It would pretty much build thin layers. If you can reach inside, I would shove some fiberglass or carbon fiber after the first layer or two of epoxy.

I hope that was easy to understand. Like I said, I haven't repaired a split hull before, but I don't see the overall process being difficult, just tedious.

[kfxguy]

Actually now that I think about it. I'd close up the crack as good as you can. If you have to use ca glue that's fine. Then make sure it's sealed with masking tape. Put some epoxy in, maybe 10-15g and shove a couple steps of fiberglass into the epoxy. Even three strips if you want. Say about 1" wide and a tad longer than the tunnel. Then add a little more epoxy and make sure it's wetted out. You'll need a flashlight and maybe a mirror to see well enough. Tape a paint brush to a ruler or a paint stick.