Twin 60in mti need advice

[centralrcmystic]

soo ive always just built single high power setups and have been very happy with the performance. I have a 53in mystic that was in the 90s but it would always blow over. I am now building a 60in Central rc marine MTI and was persuaded to spend the extra 800 and make it a twin. Have I wasted my money or will the boat now be glued to the water assuming I have the setup correct.

2 flier 400amp esc
2 tp 5860 730kv motors
going to use stinger drives
2 x460 2blades
going to run 12s to each motor.

considering this is my first twin where do I need to mount the stingers on the pontoon?
please feel free to share your thoughts on setup angles ect

[MarkF]

You want to get as close to the center tunnel and the bottom of the boat with out digging into the glass. Maybe 2 to 3 mm away from each edge. But this depends on the thickness of the glass. On that size boat you may need to be 3 to 4mm away. Your equipment set up looks fine to me.

Mark

[centralrcmystic]

Thanks mark I appreciate you response.

[srislash]

Do you have to make your own mounts or did it come with them.

[centralrcmystic]

I'm making my own mounts out of carbon fiber.

[centralrcmystic]

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[centralrcmystic]

Any angle or straight out the back

[srislash]

Start with straight out the back to start and you may have to adjust a bit of negative or move weight forward as speed increases.
I asked about mounts because I try to keep the motors as low as possible and to the rear as much as is comfortable for repair/adjustments. I know it is a big hull but if you can get a mock up CG of 30-35% it is ideal(remember to have hatch on).
Hope I am not over explaining. It is the same as with a single just with stingers.
Shawn

BTW: great looking hull

[centralrcmystic]

Srislash will the cg of the boat change when fully loaded or is the cg the cg. We are at 34%. Also it looks like the stingers I got are not going to let me mount all the way to the inner deepest edge of the pontoon. It will be close but not ideal

[srislash]

The CG should be when fully loaded ready for water, With hatch on.
The stinger should just be as close as possible. From there the size of prop can compensate.

[Hotrods]

IMG_1261.jpgIMG_1259.jpgI built and testing the gas version of this boat, and I can tell you it packs a ton of air, your Speed master stingers will work fine, because you are going to need to run negative trim in the boat anyway. Now your boat will weigh quite a bit more than mine, because mine is just a single so that should help some. I have tuned on a similar boat to this one (with a narrow tunnel I mean) same power you are using and we ran 470's two blades for playing and we would jump to the 27/16 three blades for triple digit speeds runs.

[Hotrods]

Also if you wanted to get the shaft as close to the vee as possible you could go with a strut setup which is what I would do, but that is just me.

[centralrcmystic]

Hey hotrod thanks for the advice . I might have to give up the scale look and just go with the struts if it will make a difference in performance. If your saying this boat will require negative prop angle the strut would give me more play

[Hotrods]

Boats with the kind power you plan on running I like to run with some negative anyway because it will lift the hull at speed but keep it nice and flat

Hey hotrod thanks for the advice . I might have to give up the scale look and just go with the struts if it will make a difference in performance. If your saying this boat will require negative prop angle the strut would give me more play

[centralrcmystic]

Is 34% still the magic number or have you made changes