Genesis torque roll issue

[MG1234]

I'll check that next ,thanks

[MG1234]

I do my throttle calibration one at a time ,I unplug the motor on the ESC I'm not working on ,

[SD Eracer]

Thank you for staying so patient with me and trying to help. I am kind a new in boating, I am really appreciate your advices.
I set the timing for the recommended setting. I think it was 18.75. Should I go with 15 if the esc or motor getting hot?
One more thing, Should I do the esc throttle calibration one by one or just once for both at the same time?
I ordered two brand new factory sharpened and balanced x442 octura prop. Will see how's that will work.
I hoping my genesis will fly just as TheSaddix genesis.

Thanks,

That is really high timing, if it’s a D-Wind motor, I would start with 3.75 degrees of timing. A Y-Wind motor, I would use 11.25 degrees of timing. The 15 degrees is the default setting, but too high if the motor is a D-Wind motor.

Make sure you have an infrared temp gauge with you, you can buy them on amazon for $10. On a dual motor setup like yours, it should stay pretty cold even after a hard run, especially with just 1700kv. My 4082 2000kv motors on 6S barely get above 105 degrees F after a hard run. Dual setups will always run cooler compared to the same setup with a single system. Though most brushless motors can handle 160F - 180F without hurting the magnets, your motors going beyond 140F could indicate too high a timing or your water cooling has a kink in the system.

You can do the throttle calibration 1 at a time or both. I do them at the same time since its easier and more convenient for me. I just turn on the transmitter, plug in the batteries, pull throttle to 100%, and switch on both ESCs, wait both to beep twice, then release the throttle and both should do a long beep at the same time, followed by 6 beeps to indicate the number of cells.

I would also turn off your transmitter for just a few seconds to make sure the built in safety in the receiver works and the motors don't go full throttle if they lose connection to the transmitter. If it does, reset the ESCs by turning them off, and back on again. Then do the test again by turning off the transmitter, the motors should not turn on. If they do, you have an issue with your receiver safety and could lose control of your boat should you lose connection out in the field.

[SD Eracer]

I'm also getting a twin ready to go back in the water,I run seaking 180s ,installed castle cap banks ,installed from anouther boat TP 2050 kv ,I did calibrate the ESC s,but one motor always spins before the other ,on the bench,I swapped reciever wires ,no difference ,I removed the flex shafts and it still does it just not as bad ,when I spin the props by hand they both spin freely ,don't know what else to do ,these motors are so hard to remove or I would swap them ,help please ,PS really nice Genesis ,

How is your setup in regards to your BEC? Are you using a separate battery to power your receiver and a Y-Harness?

How much more does the first motor spin before the 2nd one starts to spin?

[Nolimit]

Hi guys,

I am sure there is a millions postings about how to fix torque roll, that is one of the reason I decided to make a new thread about it. I don't want to try a bunch of things and if it is not working, then I need to make it back to the original setup.
I know it is part of the "Beauty of the boating", but I am just try to avoid any unnecessary things do to. I thought a wise advise could always come in handy before any further invest.
I just put together 36" Genesis, everything custom. Test run shows big torque roll issue, (boat lean to right). Before I invest an extra 90$ for factory balanced props, I would like to get some advise, what would be the best thing to shorting out first.
Here is my setup.

Twin- TP-4060 1700kv on 6s-5000mah, Octura x442 prop on the right side and x442r on the left side. Sharpened and balanced by me, I think I did a good job with that, I will post a video. left side prop turns clockwise and ride side one turns counter clockwise. Boat bitz 130mm small-offset Rudder with dual pickup.

The battery sitting on the middle, the weight is pretty much balanced out in the boat. The bottom of the rudder is 2,1/4 inch lower then the bottom of the blade, It is adjustable.

Low profile strut 110mm long, also adjustable up and down.

The only thing I tried to do, I put a single washer between the strut attachment and the transom on the right side on the right side on the attached screw, so the strut kind a leaning to the left, but did not worked. I torque roll issue still remain.

I would do a video, but the water is to choppy today.

I know that ,here is a lots of Genesis owner, I hope some of you won't mind to give me some ideas, since I am kind a new in boating , this is the part when I definitely need some good advise.

Thank you guys!

here is the link for the balanced props. Please tell me if is not good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3mz-yLlBaQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRtS...ature=youtu.be

Not sure if it makes any different in any matters, but the motors I got is 4050 1700kv instead 4060 1700kv

[SD Eracer]

I'm still can't fathom how you can get right side torque roll from a twin drive cat?

I also have a single drive Genesis, that runs a Leopard 4082 1730kv on 6S, now that boat has enough torque roll from the start to actually do a barrel roll. I mean a full 360 rollover it I gun it from a standstill.

However, once I get the boat moving on plane, I can go full throttle and it will track straight and true. It should be noted I have 3S 5000mAh batteries sitting in low and forward in the sponsons.

A twin should be immune to torque roll. My guess is that one of your motors/esc is putting out more power than the other. Again, I would check and make sure that both ESCs have had their throttle calibration done, if so, they should be putting out equal power and there should be zero torque roll.

[Nolimit]

I will check those few things when I got back in town and let you know. I remember that, after the first few short run, I checked the esc's temp and the right side one was pretty warm but the left side one was stone cold. I know that is an indication of that issue what you just mentioned. I know for sure, was something is not right, but since then I did't have time to do any further settings change. I will let you know. BTW I received the new factory sharpened and balanced props, so that would be good to go as well.
Thanks!

[SD Eracer]

Cool, also, here is my checklist before I do my first run of the day.

1. Lube flexshafts, make sure you have at least a 4mm gap between the drive dog and stinger to prevent binding under load.

2. Make sure both ESCs are programmed the same. Should manually set for the amount of cells you are running, such as 6S. Do not use auto detection for lipos on the Seakings. Also, that the timing and low voltage cutoffs are the same for both ESCs. If you are running Y-wind, I would use 11.25 degrees, and D-wind I would use 3.75 to start. But make sure they are both the same.

3. Finally, do a throttle calibration: Turn on transmitter, pull throttle to 100%, turn on each ESC, both should do 2 beeps, release the throttle, you should get a long beep and then 6 beeps (assuming 6S) for both ESCs. Give it some moderate throttle for a second to make sure both motors are running equally in power, finally tape up and go for it.

Note: If you are still getting torque roll, try switching the ESCs between the motors. If the torque roll is still on the right side, then its the motor. If it moves to the left side, then its the ESC or ESC settings.

[Nolimit]

4mm sounds and looks a bit big. Are you sure that is the right gap size?

[Nolimit]

this is 3.5mm20151231_111158.jpg20151231_111210.jpg

[SD Eracer]

That actually looks pretty good. As a rule of thumb, you want the same gap as the width of the flexshaft.

I run a .187 shafts or 3/16, which equals 4.76mm of width, but 4mm with a .187 seems to be fine.

Trust me, when you see the wear on your flexshaft, even with 4-5mm of gap, I can see wear lines within 1mm of the drive dog, which means my shafts compress 3 or more mm during operation. This is more crucial to a single drive that has more stress put on it vs a dual drive, but its better to be safe than sorry.

In fact, I cut my flexshafts to give me exactly 4mm of gap when fully inserted into the collets.

[Nolimit]

Yeah, that I will do , I am ordering a 2 more flex. The flex shaft was fully inserted, but now almost 4mm out, which is still not bad.
I reprogrammed the esc's to 3.75 cutoff time since the motors ares D-s, flexes are greased, and the full throttle also has beed set. Seems like the two motor starting at the same time. Props ready to go, all I waiting for is a calm lake.
I will update, soon is finish the test.

Thanks, and Happy new Year!!

[SD Eracer]

Sounds good, let us know how it goes.

Out in the field, if you notice its still torquing on one side, switch ESCs so they are now connected to opposite motors. Then test again. If you its still torquing on the same side, its likely a motor issue. If it switches sides, then its the ESC or ESC setting.